Last Update : October 16, 2001
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Micro RS4 Tips & Mods


Project RTR : Ready To Race - By Tony Leone
Super low slung Viper body in 150mm and Low Center of Gravity chassis mod. "De-Cased" electronics and centerlined five cell battery. Will this be the hot ticket for club racing?

Project RTR : Race Results - By Tony Leone
It worked like a champ, I TQ'ed and won the A-main.

Build A Better Front Diff - By Tony Leone
Are you fed up with your front diff? Ready to buy a oneway? This tip is for you. Trust me, there is hope with the Micro RS4's kit gear diff.

Quick Tips


Keep Your Body Quiet


You may have notices that your bodies rattle and vibrate on the body posts, especially on rougher tracks. Well this is easy to fix. Just add little squares of servo tape over your body post holes. Then put some paper sqaures on the other side of the tape to keep it from sticking to your body posts. And to finish it off, carefully cut the servo tape to match the body holes. Now your body sits about 1mm higher, so adjust your body posts 1mm lower to compensate.
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Keep Your Servo on Lock Down


Bernie sends in this tip for all of you running standard sized servos. Even with his dual rate set corectly, Bernie's servo still worked its way loose after a pack. He suggests putting servo tape on both sides of the servo to sandwitch it between the upper and lower chassis plates.
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Add Rear Traction in One Minute Flat


If you don't feel like going to irreversible extremes (grinding the chassis) to soften up the rear suspension to gain more traction just remove the rear spring. Yep, that's it. Only one minute to more traction! Don't forget to add some lube to the shaft.

It should be noted that this trick does not add as much rear traction as grinding your chassis will.
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Add a Little Dampening to Your "Shocks"


This is a fairly easy mod. Just add some silicon oil or grease to all of your shock shafts to smoothen them up. Depending on the thickness or weight of the fluid you use, you can adjust the dampening characteristics of the shocks somewhat. I have tried Team Losi Hydradrive fluid, and MIP CVD Grease (the icky green stuff). But you can try anything you can get your hands on, from silicon diff lube or silicon shock oils. But keep in mind that the oil/lub will work its way out of the shock, so if you run in dusty areas you will need to keep a close eye on them.
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Change the Ride Height of Your Micro [UPDATED]


If you run on extremely smooth surfaces, it's probably a good idea to lower your car. It will improve handling and steering response. To do this, just add combinations of 1mm or 2mm washers/spacers under the two screws that hold the rear bulkhead, and the 5 screws that tie the front suspension to the chassis. It isn't really necessary to add spacers under the posts that hold the rear brace to the chassis if you only lower your car 1mm. Keep this within 1mm of the others.
Update : "upon3" from the YourMicro Forum pointed out that this does not lower the center of gravity on a car that still has the batteries and electronics mounted on the upper deck. However, if you have already started mounting your battery packs on the chassis, this tip is still a good one.
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Glue Those Tires Nice and Neat [UPDATED]


In some cases, you can get away with not gluing your tires. But you will soon get tired of putting them back on. It's not hard to glue them, but I have seen people make a total mess out of it, and in some extremes, the tires get lumpy and make the car bounce. It doesn't take much glue to hold these on. Just pinch the tire as I do in the photo at right, and add a little glue in the gap. Carefully work your way around the tire in this manner on both sides.
Update : Jim Maxwell sent me an email and suggested to dip a round toothpic in your CA, then squeeze open the tire, and roll the toothpic around the rim to distribute the glue. He also adds that you can usually do about an inch at a time per dip.
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Keep Your Motor Plate Secure


This tip comes to us from Calvin Cheung. He suggests adding threadlock (Loctite) to the screws that hold the motor plate to the rear bulkhead. These screws can come loose with vibration.
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Take off those Wheels!


It can sometimes be difficult to simply pull or pry your wheels off of the hubs. Some people have even broke their cars doing so. My buddy Thames found that if you squeeze the wheel as you are pulling it off, it comes off easier. So what you do is squeeze the wheel at opposing ends using your thumb and the upper knuckle of your index finger. SQEEZE and PULL and it's off. It does take a little bit of pressure, but once you get the hang of it, it will become second nature.
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Keep That Rear Diff Adjusted


After a few runs, your rear might diff becomes loose. To fix this, take an extra nut and thread it onto the axle until it touches the diff nut. Then while you hold the diff nut in place, tighten the extra nut into the diff nut. The trick here is to keep the diff nut where you want it, so you don't lose your adjustment. Now you diff nut can't work itself loose.
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