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Old 11-17-2008, 12:14 AM
Jeffolaey11 Jeffolaey11 is offline
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Lightbulb I figured I may as well shoot for a sticky... recommended upgrades!

Okay, so if there's something like this, punch me.

I've seen a lot of advice, both bad and good, as to what one should buy for these things.


First off: Aluminum

If you're gentle on it, you don't need it. I bought it because my wreckless driving had a tendency to shatter the graphite towers. I coughed up the money, found some quite useful pieces.

The dogbones are a definite plus, if not the smoothest things out there. They're a lot harder to twist than the stockers, and are much harder to snap.

The shock towers... Not the greatest stuff. If you have an acetelene torch and some oil, temper them. Or don't. Yeah, don't. They're kind of soft, but it's nothing that a board and a hammer can't fix. They're nearly impossible to break, and even pretty hard to bend. Soft for towers, though.

The A-arm... a most definite plus. I nailed a car tire doing forty miles an hours, ripped off both arms on the left side of the car. Neither one broke, but I did lose some of my stock turnbuckles.

*edit* Does it mark those already? I know it adds a tag at the bottom, dunno about in-post. I forgot about the axle carriers/hubs, whatever you want to call them. Keep them where you can find them, but only mount them if you break something. They're tough as all get out, but you need *exactly* the right amount of loctite or all the screws will back out.

That's all you really need from the kit, so the majority of it is useful. The aluminum motor mount doesn't help temps a lot, but is kinda flashy. Would be a big plus if both sides came, instead of just the right side. The battery strap can work wonders for cooling your batteries, if you bother cutting grooves in it.


RC18 parts: Drivetrain.

First things first, buy the RC18 driveshaft and a new spur. They're a direct swap, and are considerably tougher. That, and you can upgrade to aluminum and even titanium spurs... They've even got a slipper clutch out now.

Get the MIP Super Diffs and the Steel diff and input gears, they make for a nigh-indestructable drivetrain. Huge plus.

You can get the MIP CVDs, but you need to replace your axle hubs with RC18 hubs, and this can get to be pricey for those on a budget. I stuck with the Megatech dogbones.

Motor: As far as a good brushed motor, I recommend the fireball. I had one, loved it to pieces... Grenaded the brushes (check the temp, turns out I had it to nearly 200 degrees... makes sense, it had ~20 hours run time under a heavy load) but until they went, it screamed. It'll run on the stock ESC just fine, too. 80 amps does that.

If you want a brushless motor, I would have to say Mamba, Quark, or C4 by Dynamite. I've run all three (the quark was hard to find, was lying in a parts bin at my LHS in Hemet) and they all performed quite nicely.

For the ESCs, stick with the stocker for *all* brushed motors, it can handle a 550 can for goodness' sakes. I would say that the Mamba Micro Pro is a great BL ESC from what I've seen of it, got to sample one at the Hemet LHS. I haven't had a chance to use any quarks, but I've heard good things. The BL ESC I've used and loved, however, is the Sidewinder. It can handle the smaller brushed motors, too, simplifying a swap between brushless and brushed.

Batteries? I've never had a good LiPo, so I can't help ya there. However, as far as NiMH cells... The red pack from megatech works *great* for the $10 price tag at Rat Shack. Can't help much here, I'm still running one.

Last edited by Jeffolaey11; 11-19-2008 at 06:07 PM. Reason: Forgot a bit in the aluminum section, eh?
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Old 11-17-2008, 07:47 AM
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alfred alfred is offline
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Im sure other members will find this info useful, thanks for posting man.
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Old 11-19-2008, 06:06 PM
Jeffolaey11 Jeffolaey11 is offline
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Aye, thanks.

Just trying to speed it up more than anything, really, this slow dreariness in the propulse boards is almost depressing.
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