Electronic Problems (HELP)

element98106 · #1 09-23-2009, 11:24 AM

Trying to determine what type of problem im having. To start off, I purchased my MRS4 used with electronics. Since then, I have replaced the reciever with my own DX3r. The car came with a Micro sidewinder ESC and a brushless CM 2080 motor with a Losi 1300mah Lipo 2c battery.

The issue im having is when I first begin to run the car, it is really fast and alot of fun. After maybe 2-3 minutes, the car slows down and doesnt respond to full throttle. If i let it sit for 10 seconds, the hit the throttle it works again at full speed, as soon as I let off to take a turn and then try to throttle it again, it is really slow and unresponsive. Once again, if I let it sit for a few seconds and then hit the throttle, it goes quickly again. But it really takes the fun out of trying to run the car. Any suggestions on what might make this occur.

Im really just trying to figure out if its a motor, speed control, or battery problem.

Russ Winn · #2 09-23-2009, 05:26 PM

I don't have any experience with brushless motors/ESCs, but from what you're describing, it's safe to say it isn't the battery. I've had brushed motors act like that and all it took was a cleaning and lube on the bearings.
I would suggest looking up the ESC online and see if you can find a manual. It may give troubleshooting advice.
Sorry I couldn't be more help.

TRIGGAFINGA · #3 09-27-2009, 12:52 PM

I'm not an expert or nothin but you might want to check the timing with a castle link.

jymellis · #4 09-30-2009, 08:15 AM

sounds like it may be getting hot, hows the temp of the esc when its slow and unresponsive?

SteveM · #5 10-02-2009, 05:50 AM

Sounds like the ESC is over heating and going into thermal shutdown. Check everything on the car to make sure nothing is binding, perhaps alter your gearing if you're too high, reset the ESC to the default settings, check the BL motor to be sure it doesn't have a bent shaft or seized bearings.

alfred · #6 10-03-2009, 03:09 PM

Do you have good plugs on the wires......put some deans on there and do what the other members suggest in there posts above.

element98106 · #7 10-31-2009, 11:07 AM

Thanks for all the helpful suggestions. I checked everything that was recommended, but I still have problems. I was so desperate I sold the castle setup that was in the car and purchased a new Micro Pro online.

I dont have any problems with over heating... the car doesnt allow me to run it long enough for this to become a problem. ESC and motor BARELY get warm. The gearing is within range. The only other thing that was mentioned was the wiring. All the wires look to be in good shape and soldered well. However, concerning the battery, because the batteries for micros are typically very small, they are usually gauged with small wire. To make sure the battery power could get to the motor, I soldered on thicker wires. The problem with this is that the original wires recede directly into the battery pack, so i cannot completely remove them. So I cut them down as far as I could and soldered a thicker gauge wire on. Could this be my problem?

element98106 · #8 10-31-2009, 11:19 AM

Also 1 other thing id like to mention. This only seems to happen when the car is on the ground. I will pick it up and hit full throttle, when I do this the car responds fine. I place it back on the street and it starts the same problem (not applying the full throttle power to the motor)

alfred · #9 10-31-2009, 01:49 PM

I would like to know what charger are you using.....is it one with adjustable amperage and mv settings. Whats the condition of the battery, if new has it been cycled.

element98106 · #10 11-01-2009, 11:42 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by alfred

I would like to know what charger are you using.....is it one with adjustable amperage and mv settings. Whats the condition of the battery, if new has it been cycled.

I am using a Hyperion EOS 0615i Duo3 charger. Yes I can adjust amperage. I purchased the battery along with the chassis from a seller off of e-bay who claimed the battery was new, but had been sitting for about a year and a half. The battery is 2c 1300mah from losi

element98106 · #11 11-01-2009, 11:47 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by RERacing

Yup - it's pointless upgrading the wires if you're not going to replace the ENTIRE wire. You've built in a point of resistance, and still haven't addressed the "rest" of the wire inside the pack.
My advice - take the shrinkwrap off the pack, and resolder your new wire directly to the batteries (NO SPLICING).

Well that is helpful thanks. My second question is: If I have built in a point of resistance, wouldn't the car and its power output react the same in my hand and on the track? As I mentioned before, if I hold the car and hit full throttle, the motor responds appropriately. Yet when I put it on the track it seems to selectively react.

BTW, checked everything, absolutely no binding/meshing anywhere in the drive train.

I will try to solder the battery over the next few days and keep everyone posted. Thanks for all your help! This car is driving me mad and I just want it to work right!

alfred · #12 11-01-2009, 12:49 PM

You might want to check the solder points on the battery, it may just have a cold joint. Since the batt has been sitting that long have you cycled the battery at all.

alfred · #13 11-03-2009, 07:31 PM

For one i would def try another batt pack and see if that works.

xxfile · #14 12-05-2009, 08:34 AM

i have been there and it was the bearings in the motor that was just plain worn out...
slapped in a new mamba and it was fine pull out the motor and see if theres any side to side play in the shaft.
as it wears out i think it binds on the magnets inside the can.