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  #1  
Old 07-19-2007, 07:55 PM
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Nightviper Nightviper is offline
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RS noob

I work at the shack, and I just got the Pro-Pulse truck because of the deal and my discount. I got the dual motor kit, shocks, and the better battery. I switched it to the orange buggy because I like the looks of it. I've been having lots of problems with this... tell me what you think.

I got the titanium turnbuckles because I snapped the original flexible ones, and now when I change the the camber or toe, it somehow vibrates itself to the old setting. Odd...

I made it rear wheel drive so I could do donuts and impress customers but it stripped the differential, which was lame, but I used my Radioshack ways to repair that, and then kept it 4WD. Thoughts?

The front dogbones keep letting the pin slide out, and then eventually slide out of the tire and get stuck, which locks the wheels. So I got new dogbones, and the problem is fixed... for now.

Now the new problem Im having is after I go forward for any amount of time, if I hit the brake or reverse, then it starts jutting forward in spurts, and I lose control. If I turn off the controller when its accelerating on its own, then it takes off full speed and doesnt stop until I turn the controller back on. It slammed into the wall uncontrollably at full speed and broke some more things, which is pretty awesome.

I've spent a little bit more on repairing it than I spent on the product, and I've used almost all the parts that my Radioshack has. I made an aluminum front bumper because the plastic one flexed and allowed the shock tower snap in half, but I swap it out to for the weight problem.

If you have any wisdom to share to a noob, then it would be greatly appreciated. Thanks again...
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  #2  
Old 07-19-2007, 09:40 PM
Jeffrey112 Jeffrey112 is offline
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hope i can help

I hope I can help you with your problems.

1. For the titanium turnbuckle fix may I recomend supper glue. I dont know but this sounds as if it would work. I have heard super glue does weaken plastic but I think it sould be fine. If that doesnt work look around for some glue. That seems like the best fix.

2. As for the rearwheel drive. The diffs dont seem that strong. If I were you I would keep it 4 wheel drive. My truck does donuts wven with 4 wheel drive.
Another solution is to get an MIP super diff. I have not tryed it my self but heard people getting them. If you get a pair I heard you have to files down the plastic sides so the bearing will fit.

3. The same thing happend to me To fix this I stuffed a piece of paper into the diff It only did it again once and that was when I hit something.

4. The juttering happend to me to. IT would brake but sometimes it would just go into reverse. The going full force when the radio is off. It only did this to me when my battery was really low. I had to get a new servo. It creates some interference. So make sure you route your cables.


ps. watch your servo.
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  #3  
Old 07-19-2007, 10:04 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Nightviper View Post
I work at the shack, and I just got the Pro-Pulse truck because of the deal and my discount. I got the dual motor kit, shocks, and the better battery. I switched it to the orange buggy because I like the looks of it. I've been having lots of problems with this... tell me what you think.
Sure, go with a single motor until you get used to the handling and speed.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Nightviper View Post
I got the titanium turnbuckles because I snapped the original flexible ones, and now when I change the the camber or toe, it somehow vibrates itself to the old setting. Odd...
That is odd. I bent the RS titanium steering turnbuckles I installed, I upgraded them to Lunsford Heavy Duty. I can't see how they would adjust while driving.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Nightviper View Post
I made it rear wheel drive so I could do donuts and impress customers but it stripped the differential, which was lame, but I used my Radioshack ways to repair that, and then kept it 4WD. Thoughts?
Why would you even think of making it 2wd? Just put on harder tires (or electrical tape on the tires) and it'll donut all day long.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Nightviper View Post
The front dogbones keep letting the pin slide out, and then eventually slide out of the tire and get stuck, which locks the wheels. So I got new dogbones, and the problem is fixed... for now.
Huh? I'm thinking you need better dogbones or even better CVD's. The ones for the RC18T for the Pro-Pulse but may have to install some other RC18T parts (Hubs, hinge pins) to get that to work properly. Putting a spring in the cup for the diff may also help keep the dogbone from falling out of the stub axle.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Nightviper View Post
Now the new problem Im having is after I go forward for any amount of time, if I hit the brake or reverse, then it starts jutting forward in spurts, and I lose control. If I turn off the controller when its accelerating on its own, then it takes off full speed and doesnt stop until I turn the controller back on. It slammed into the wall uncontrollably at full speed and broke some more things, which is pretty awesome.
That sounds like a ESC or Rec problem. If you have access to spares swap them out one at a time before buying new ones.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Nightviper View Post
I've spent a little bit more on repairing it than I spent on the product, and I've used almost all the parts that my Radioshack has. I made an aluminum front bumper because the plastic one flexed and allowed the shock tower snap in half, but I swap it out to for the weight problem.
A aluminum bumper shouldn't have added that much extra weight. How big did you make it?
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  #4  
Old 07-20-2007, 06:10 PM
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as for the pin sliding out, you can use a small piece of heat shrink to cover the pin...........and as for the esc make sure to try reprogramming it again.
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  #5  
Old 07-20-2007, 06:18 PM
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Thanks

Thanks for all of your help. With your guys help, I was able to fix everything except the jutting problem. Sorry, Im pretty new. How would I reprogram it?
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  #6  
Old 07-20-2007, 06:20 PM
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I dont know much about that esc, but im sure it came with instructions on how to do it.
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  #7  
Old 07-24-2007, 11:21 AM
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Steering problems and life questions

Got everything else worked out, but I broke the steering post where the turnbuckle connects to the balljoint and the servo. As you can tell, I dont know what its called, or where to get it.

The plastic that Pro-Pulse uses doesnt seem to like off roading very much, and since I've already put quite a bit into this car, do you think that it would be better to just keep replacing the plastic with a stronger alloy or start again with a better quality RC?
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  #8  
Old 07-24-2007, 12:27 PM
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Since you already have it you might as well spend the mullah on better parts. But in the end its up too you.
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  #9  
Old 07-24-2007, 12:38 PM
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Do you know what that steering part is called? Theres no RC stores around so Im gonna have to order it, and Im trying to get an exact name for it so I dont order something and get dissapointed.

Thanks...
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  #10  
Old 07-24-2007, 12:46 PM
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The single best upgrade for the Propulse is to replace it with an Rc18t factory team. You can always use the electronics from the Propoop
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  #11  
Old 07-24-2007, 02:16 PM
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I think the parts you'll need are in this set.


Pro-Pulse Titanium Tie Rods and Servo Saver Set
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  #12  
Old 07-29-2007, 02:21 PM
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Thanks again

I finally found the parts I needed, and I had to order them directly from Radioshack. I went to every hobby store around and couldnt find anything to fit. The steering bellcrank from the RC18 does not transfer over to the Pro-Pulse... I also made a roll cage and bumpers in hopes to not break any more of the plastic.

Tell me what you think,

and dont worry, its not taped on there...
Attached Images
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Last edited by Nightviper; 07-29-2007 at 02:23 PM.
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  #13  
Old 07-29-2007, 02:51 PM
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awesome man.....that looks good, so what is the rollcage made out of.
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  #14  
Old 07-29-2007, 02:52 PM
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BilboBaggins BilboBaggins is offline
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Interesting.

I'm pretty sure I wouldn't do it that way, it may need the truck body to cover the cage.

The only problem you may have by adding that is another area may become weaker because of limiting the plastics flex.
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  #15  
Old 07-29-2007, 03:56 PM
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The cage is made out of aluminum piping and box tubes. Brass seemed too cumbersome. The guy at the hobby shop I bought it from said to clamp the ends of the bumpers and make them sharp enough to cut other car bodies. I upped him one and said poeples ankles, half joking...
...Tempting though...

And BilboBaggins, what parts would be most vulnerable with the cage? Or which places should I be especially careful about or watch? Thanks, man.

If you can't tell, Im no RC hobbiest. Im just a guy thats got free time (at work) and some extra benjamins, only looking to goof around and have something to do while slacking off.
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