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  #1  
Old 10-23-2008, 12:06 AM
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Kav's Sportwerks Recoil Pro Build/Info Thread *With Servo Chart*

After retiring Projekt Graphite-Tec to the shelf after a near fatal accident that destroyed a Sidewinder ESC, I craved another on-road. I really started to take a liking to the apartment-friendly size of my RC18T, but a ‘R wouldn’t cut it. I needed a proper touring car that was large enough to drive on a paved street without getting upset by a small pebble. The Sportwerks Recoil fit the bill, and is in a class all of it’s own at 1/14th the size of a real Mazda 6. After a bit of research, I decided on the Pro ARR “David Spashett” version, since I would be getting rid of the stock electronics anyways. By getting the pro version, which is already hopped-up with all of Sportwerk’s option parts, I would save money in the end. I had most of the components ready to drop in: Sidewinder Micro ESC, AON4900 BL motor, and Spektrum RX. It was just a matter of choosing a servo and then ordering the car. The eBay store “HopMeUp” was running a sale on Recoils at $98 plus shipping. Along with the car, I picked up a pre-painted body and a set of Losi 22t pinions. Here’s what I’ve learned after countless hours reading a handful of excellent threads:

Shocks: The blue-anodized aluminum shocks seem nice and don’t leak, which is a nice change coming from my ‘18T. But the springs are too soft, too long, which doesn’t allow the chassis to “droop” under its own weight, and the oil is much too thin for a TC. RCtech member “duneland” discovered that cutting Associates VCS springs in half gave the perfect tuning spring for the shocks. There’s a handful of rates to choose from and droop can be tuned by further trimming. For ozite, he recommends copper (16.00) up front and red (14.00) in rear. He cautioned that this set-up, when using 50wt. oil up front and 45wt. in rear, gave little warning before traction rolling, but handling was much improved. For general indoor and outdoor bashing and speed runs, I went with gold (12.00) in front and blue (10.00) in the rear. 40wt. and 35wt. oil should be a good match to these spring rates, respectively.

Differentials: The stock recoil comes with plastic gear differentials, while the Pro comes with ball differentials with metal outdrives. An awesome upgrade, but it could’ve been implemented better. The 3mm balls, which are common in the 1/10th field, are of poor quality and the chrome plating flakes off, causing a gritty feel and grooving to the diff plates. Before running the car, disassemble the diffs, install Robitronic Scalpel Diff Balls (#RA2049), and lube with Associated Stealth Differential Lube (#6591). The other issue involves the metal outdrives. I have seen two instances where, when running brushless, the CVD pin wears a groove in the outdrive quicker than expected. Duratrax Vendetta differentials, which are an easy swap, solve this problem with their beefier outdrives, but are a pricey upgrade at $25 per. Until spare parts dry up, keep an extra set of outdrives on hand to swap in.

Servo: The stock servo is slow and weak, and should be one of the first upgrades on the RTR version. Thankfully, Sportwerks lets us choose out own with the Pro, and includes a few mounts to allow many different sizes of servos to be installed. Futaba’s digital S9650 and metal-geared S9602, along with JR’s DS285MG are three of the most commonly recommended servos. I went with the S9602 as I favored speed over torque and found a used one for a very reasonable price. A more involved discussion can be found below, in Post #9 of this thread.

Rolling Stock: Simply put, the wheels are weak and the tires wear out very quickly. One tag of the boards and you’re almost guaranteed to need a new rear wheel. They break off right at the hub. A set of Sportwerks foams solves both of these problems. They’re offered in 35, 40, and 45 shore. 35 offers many times more traction that the stock rubbers, and yet still lasts longer. A set of 45 shores, which are great for general outdoors bashing, are what my Recoil will be wearing once I wear out or break the stock gear. The wheels are made from a different blend of plastics and are reinforced near the hub. Before the foams were offered, it was discovered that Carisma M14 rear tires (CIS14014) were an adequate replacement rubber that lasted a bit longer then the stock A-spec tires. Just tossing some other options into the mix.

Spares: Sooner or later, you’ll hit a pesky mailbox, light pole, or curb. Most likely, the first, and possibly only, part you’ll break is the rear hingepin mount. Make sure to have at least one package of item #SWK6010 to keep your ride running. I also recommend stocking up on spurs. No aftermarket replacements have been found, so once Sportwerks runs out, that’s it. $3 is cheap insurance to make sure your now-discontinued model can continue to tear past the competition.

Motors: Larger in scale (1/14th vs. 1/18th) and heavier than the R/C’s 180-sized brushless motors are made for, which ironically are 370-can brushed motor replacements, a large-can brushless motor must be used to prevent overheating. The AON4900 (24x33mm) is a great choice, as is the HXT 24x35 (370S) 4400kv motor from hobbycity.com. The Wraith 7k, although now discontinued, is a popular choice, but might need some modification to fit mounted to the Pro’s sliding motor mount. A Sidewinder Micro ESC should have no problem spinning this powerplant, but if the motor does draw too much current, an Associated XPS heatsink or small computer RAM heatsink can be CA glued to the ESC shrink to dissipate any excess heat.

I believe the rest is common sense, such as batteries and the TX/RX. This little model is very unique, and it’s a shame Horizon dropped Sportwerks and discontinued the Recoil. The ironic thing is, I purchased mine the morning of the announcement. But I have done my research, and was pumped about adding this gem to my fleet. The cars, when properly tuned, seem to have no problem taking on 1/10th scale competition. Shaft drive makes them impervious to the pebbles, dirt, and twigs that can take out a belt.

As mentioned before, my stock Recoil Pro is wearing the black pre-painted shell. The reason being that I have never painted a body before, and I wanted to have this car running as soon as it arrived. The AON4900 motor is connected to the wheels with a Losi 22t pinion from the mini-LST. The AON should have no problem pulling this gearing thanks to its massive amount of torque and low kv, but if things do heat up, a heatsink will be snapped on. For short speed runs, I might even gear up. After all, I do have 7 more of these purple cans! A Futaba S9602 servo was purchased just for this car. Only the best will do for my builds. It’s a 1/12th scale pan car servo, and with metal gears, both heavier and larger then a micro servo as commonly seen used in a R/C mini. The Rhino 2S 1550mAh LiPo will give the motor plenty of juice. I’m expecting speeds of around 40 mph. Once I get more comfortable with driving a car of this size, I’ll step up to a 3S.

Some of my first runs will be inside, on a wood gym floor. The stock rubber tires will get the most traction of any rolling stock, and I don’t plan on hitting anything, so I’ll wait on the foams. I’m not sure when I’ll take the car outside to drive. This is the first new car I have ever purchased, and now that’s it’s discontinued, I don’t want to go scratching the graphite chassis plate or breaking some irreplaceable part. I learned that lesson with my RS4 MT.

Not much of a “build” thread, I know, since the car came assembled and ready for electronics. A small reason for purchasing this car was that I already all the electronics laying around unused and waiting for a chassis. In the coming days and weeks, new parts such as springs, oil, and spares such as tires, spurs, and hinge pin mounts will begin to flow in. I’ll give driving reports and part casualties as they happen. My main purpose of this thread was a repository for all the information and tips I’ve learned over the past week. I wanted a convenient, easy to read way to recall what works with what and necessary steps before running the car for both me and others. Of course, pictures will follow soon!

Helpful Links:
Sportwerks Recoil review on R/C Universe

Associated Spring Rate Chart

30+ Page RCTech Recoil RTR Thread
Short Recoil Pro thread on RCTech
Let's talk about the Sportwerks Recoil on R/C Universe
Sportwerks Recoil discussion on R/C Universe #2
The Brits discuss the Recoil



Body shell options, aftermarket parts such as swaybars and Exotek, and other potential upgrades now discussed in post #16

To come: ride height and gearing, and other necessary pre-run checks.

Last edited by kavvika; 11-08-2008 at 04:00 PM.
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Old 10-24-2008, 04:29 PM
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Wow ! Awesome writeup!

Everything is very neat and well organized. Very professional looking write up I think I will add in as well. Information is all accurate as to what I have been reading as well.

There is plenty of information here to help out someone new to a Recoil kit.


Well done!
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Old 10-25-2008, 09:36 AM
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I have to agree...Very well-written review of the Recoil. Your addressing of the diff issues were spot-on, and I'll have to take a lot of that into account when I hit the LHS next time.
One item that wasn't mentioned, however, was the use of brushed motors. (Some of us are still old-school, and won't spend the money on converting everything over to B/L)...The Pro motor mount is a very ingenious system, but it's a little tight for some motor shaft bearings. (It's different than the RTR version). I had to use a dremel on the inner edge of mine in order to get the motor to mount flush with the mounting block. The pro version doesn't come with a motor, but the stock Sportwerks E370 motor is a good place to start. It has bearings in the comm shaft, and replaceable motor brushes. The price is cheap, as well ($15 US). I found this motor comes alive with 7cells (8.4v), and runs only slightly warmer than I'd like, using the 14/58 gearing combo. I think a decent heatsink on the motor would help that issue. I haven't tried any other 370-400 size motors, but there are many available. The Sportwerks recommended "upgrade" motor is a 370 size, called the XLR8. It retails for around $30-32 USD.

One last personal note: Kavvika, you're obviously not a "newbie" in RC, and I've enjoyed reading your posts, but painting bodies (especially the Recoil) is very easy. They all come with window masks, and decals. One can of spray paint, and you're hooked up.
Keep up the great posts.
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Old 10-25-2008, 10:03 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Russ Winn View Post
One last personal note: Kavvika, you're obviously not a "newbie" in RC, and I've enjoyed reading your posts, but painting bodies (especially the Recoil) is very easy. They all come with window masks, and decals. One can of spray paint, and you're hooked up.
Keep up the great posts.

Yeah, painting a body isn't that hard really. I had never painted a body until this past summer and I so far have done two of them. Refer to my Micro RS4 thread and crawler thread in my sig.

All I can say is, clean clean clean the body. Make sure it is well soaped and well washed and dried before painting. I know I have seen many quotes that say painting a body is only as good as your prep work. I used green masking tape to tape off the two different colours I wanted to use in micro and it worked out with acceptable results. Make sure all corners are pressed fairly hard to hinder paint from sneaking in underneath.

Basically to paint, have old clothes on, a good mask, glasses to protect your eyes, a glove on your opposite hand of the can to hold the body and obviously make sure it is warm and you are outside before doing this. Once you start spraying keep the can about a foot away and keep the can moving around and you can even do spot checks with the sun to see where you may have missed some paint. Trust me, it might look like 100% coverage, hold it up to the sun and the background light coming behind it "paints" a different picture.

Then make sure the first coat is well cured before backing it or doing your second colour. Then make sure that coat is well dry before removing any masking and tape. Sticker it up and scratch it up.

Pactra rattle can paints work well and the same for Tamiya cans. The paint might flow a bit smooth from the Tamiya cans.


As for my Recoil and my girlfriends, they will be airbrushed by the LHS owner. I'am looking to do a cow themed body for her's and something flashy and bright and "racey" looking for my body. I would consider another body to just paint on my own at some time.

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Last edited by Nerve; 10-25-2008 at 10:05 AM.
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Old 10-27-2008, 12:19 PM
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Thanks for the replies, both of you, it means alot. I've been into hobby-class R/C cars for going on two years now, but I'm still a new to some aspects of it, such as painting, and I still don't understand Hobao/Ofna's buggy numbering system! Russ, you're right, I didn't even touch on the subject of brushed motors. I can't say I remember much about the various motor options, except the stock RTR motor is OK, the XLR-8 "upgrade" motor is a pain to keep running, and the Carisma stocker requires some dremeling to fit in the Pro's motor mount. I'll look more into that this week and add a paragraph on brushed motor options.

But first let me throw in my opinion on brushed motors. I feel brushless has finally hit the mainstream. The days of brushed are numbered. I sold all but one brushed ESC while they still held any resale value. Comparing new systems, you can get a cheap brushless motor from Hong Kong/China for a mere $15 and then spend $50 on a good American-made ESC such as the Sidewinder micro. That setup will completely blow away even a top-quality bushed motor, such as one by Associated or Reedy ($30-$40) and a Novak ESC, such as the Spy ($50) or Micro GT ($60) for quite a bit less. Even the popular and durable Associated XRS is still in the $50 range. Then step up to a quality brushless motor such as Neu or Wraith and the difference is even more noticeable. Plus there's no maintenance, batteries last longer, there's less heat to worry about (although you still have to keep temps down), and consistency from run-to-run. Although I will be the first to admit that there's no sensorless system that can even come close the emulating the throttle control and smooth feel of a brushed motor. Which makes me wonder why I have not seen one Recoil with a Novak Mongoose installed...

For part two of this thread, I'd also like expand the list of servos with more lower-priced options, and with which mounts the they use to line up with the holes in the chassis. I think that'd be a good addition, since not everyone can afford a $40+ servo. Plastic gears and bushings will suffice for some people who just want a slight upgrade over the stock S-25 servo. Nerve, it looks like you're using the offset mount on the right and the straight mount on the left of your DS-285MG? Does that servo have ball bearings?

Last edited by kavvika; 10-27-2008 at 02:10 PM.
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Old 10-27-2008, 01:07 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by kavvika View Post
For part two of this thread, I'd also like expand the list of servos with more lower-priced options, and with which mounts the they use to line up with the holes in the chassis. I think that'd be a good addition, since not everyone can afford a $40+ servo. Plastic gears and bushings will suffice for some people who just want a slight upgrade over the stock S-25 servo. Nerve, it looks like you're using the offset mount on the right and the straight mount on the left of your DS-285MG? Does that servo have ball bearings?
A listing of known servos that fit into the Recoil without major modifying would be a valuable post to have on here. Specs and photos would be good to have as well. Sort of like a tutorial. I could help out with some information regarding the DS285mg for a tutorial if need be.

I didn't really want to spend $59 on a servo as well, but it's what I knew so I went with it again.

The DS285mg is bushing (had to search it since I didnt know).
http://www.jrradios.com/Products/Tec...odID=JRPS285MG

To fit the DS285mg I used both of the 90* offset mounts. I then re-centred the linkage and steering arms with the centre of the chassis and adjusted endpoints to fit.
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Old 10-27-2008, 02:33 PM
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Kavvika, I think you're right...As much as I hate to admit it, I've grown a bit stagnant over the years when it comes to technology. It kind of went that way when I lost interest in racing. I hear lots of good things about brushless, but I'm still hesitant to go that route when I still have good, functional ESCs. Maybe when the Spy craps out, or I sell off and go to 1/10, I'll look into brushless. (You'd have a heart attack if you saw my support equipment...Ask Alfred)...Anyway, I have to say you've come a long way for being in the hobby only 2 years...good job.

Also, I'd have to agree with Nerve on adding a servo post to the build thread. There are several out there that fit, but those choices are limited by the lack of space in the car.
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Old 10-27-2008, 03:28 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Russ Winn View Post
Also, I'd have to agree with Nerve on adding a servo post to the build thread. There are several out there that fit, but those choices are limited by the lack of space in the car.
I also believe the EX14 Recoil chassis has provisions to fit the HS-225mg directly to the chassis. Where as the 225 w/o gluing it would not fit using the chassis mounts provided.

A longer case and shorter cased servo might fit however.
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Old 10-27-2008, 04:43 PM
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An in-depth look at Recoil servo options:

On-center spacing:
Both straight mounts: 43mm
Left offset mount, right straight mount: 37mm
Left straight mount, right offset mount: 33.5mm
Both offset mounts: 26mm
The Pro does not come with screws to mount the servo to the servo mounts, the servo mounts to the chassis, or the servo saver to the servo output shaft. You will need 3mm diameter countersunk screws to attach the mounts to the chassis and 3mm panhead screws with washers to securely attach the servo to the mounts, and the proper screw to attach the servo saver depending on which servo you choose.

The typical BEC provides 5v for the servos, so the speed and torque numbers are the measurements at 4.8v. This is the minimum guaranteed performance. A digital servo can only be used with a radio that offers EPA adjustment. A coreless motor is preferred over a ferrite motor as it spins up faster. If a servo is not listed as having a coreless motor, that means it has a standard 3-pole ferrite motor.

*List now arranged by price: lowest to highest*

Hitec HS-81
Standard micro servo for mini cars and aircraft
Street price: $15
Analog or digital: Analog
Ball bearings? No
Metal gears? No
29mm length, 33.27mm on-center mounting tabs. Use left straight mount, right offset mount
.11 sec/60 36oz-in torque at 4.8v
User comments: Might as well pick one of these up for a spare! Very quick, more than enough torque. No ball bearings or metal gears, but what did you expect for $15? Hitec used to sell a metal-geared version of this servo called the 81MG, but I believe it was discontinued and replaced by the 82MG. Not sure how the HS-85 fits into their lineup, though. The Multiplex Tiny S is a clone of this servo. Fitment confirmed by RCTech user "johnnyshore."

Hitec HS-65MG
Micro servo for mini cars and aircraft
Street price: $36
Analog or digital: Analog
Ball bearings? Yes, 1 on output shaft
Metal gears? Yes
24mm length, 27mm on-center mounting tabs. Use both offset mounts
.14 sec/60 25oz-in torque at 4.8v
User comments: Hitec also offers a Karbonite-geared version of this servo, the HS-65HB, for $26. I remember reading that some people had trouble attaching the RC18T servo saver to the MG version of this servo. The servo is not sold with the proper screw, which is 2.5 or 2.6mm in diameter. The 65HB would be a great budget upgrade servo. Fitment confirmed by RCTech user "lutach," who uses it with the Associated "Hitec" RC18 servo saver.

Blue Bird BMS-385DMAX
Micro servo for mini car and aircraft
Street price: $40
Analog or digital: Digital
Ball bearings? Yes
Metal gears? Yes
26mm length, use left straight mount and right offset mount.
.15 sec/60 57oz-in torque at 4.8v
User comments: Huge torque in a small package. Hard to go wrong at this price point. However, I have only heard of one instance of this servo being used in a Recoil. Blue Bird also offers a non-digital version of this servo named the BMS-380MAX, along with a nylon geared BMS-380 and metal geared (no ball bearing) BMS-380MG for $24, $15 and $17, respectively. While you're checking out the Blue Bird servos, be sure to consider the BMS-373 and BMS-375 (digital) series, also. They're 22mm long servos that compete with JR's DS285MG. There's simply too many to list, so check their website.

JR DS-285MG
Sub-micro servo for mini aircraft and car
Street price: $50
Analog or digital: Digital
Ball bearings? No
Metal gears? Yes
22mm length. Use both offset servo mounts
.18 sec/60 and 17 oz-in torque at 4.8v
User comments: A lightweight option at only .42 oz. Speed does seem a bit slow for tight, twisty indoor tracks. Must buy new, I have never seen one for sale secondhand. A nylon gear version is available, the JR DS285, for $35. Fitment confirmed by YM user "Nerve."

Multiplex Polo Digi 4
Mini servo for aircraft and cars
Street price: $50
Analog or digital? Digital
Ball bearings? Yes, 2
Metal gears? Yes
28mm length. Use left straight, right offset mount.
.10 sec/60 39oz-in torque at 4.8v
User comments: The fastest servo I have seem, and quite a bit of torque, which is surprising considering it uses a 3-pole ferrite motor. Price is good for its awesome specs. Must buy new, I have never seen one for sale secondhand. Recommended by RCTech member "duneland," fitment not yet confirmed, but I believe it will drop right in.

Airtronics 94761Z
Mini servo for sailpane wings, T-rex tail, and 1/18 cars
Street price: $60
Analog or digital? Digital
Ball bearings? Yes, 2
Metal gears? No
27mm length.
.15 sec/60 55oz-in torque at 4.8v
User comments: Recommended and fitment confirmed by RCTech member "duneland." Which mounts to use is currently unknown, but I'd guess the left straight mount and right offset mount.

Futaba S-9650
1/12 scale pan car or aircraft servo
Street price: $60 Used price: <$35
Analog or digital: Digital
Coreless motor
Ball bearings?
Metal gears? No
35.5mm length, 43mm on-center mounting tabs. Use straight mounts.
.14 sec/60 and 50oz-in torque @4.8v
User comments: Like the S-9602, the 4 additional mounting tabs will need to be clipped off. 50% more torque at the expense of speed. Would be a good servo for a off-road truck, but between this and the S-9602, the latter is probably a better choice. Fitment confirmed by RCTech users "supafastsupra2" and "geeunit1014."

Futaba S-9602
1/12 scale pan car or aircraft servo
Street price: $65 Used price: <$40
Analog or Digital: Analog
Coreless motor
Ball Bearings? Yes, 2 on output shaft
Metal Gears? Yes
36mm length, 44mm on-center mounting tabs. Use straight mounts.
.11 sec/60 and 30 oz-in torque @ 4.8v
User comments: A very tight fit in the Recoil. Servo lead wire exits at a sharp angle due to front bulkhead. The four additional servo case mounting tabs must be clipped off. Since output shaft is closer to centerline of car, bellcrank linkage needs to be shortened for proper steering. Metal gears and ball bearings are a huge plus, since movement is smoother and a stronger servo saver can be used, but it is one of the heaviest options at 1.1oz. Fitment confirmed by me, "Kavvika."

JR Z3650
1/12 scale pan car servo
Street price: $90
Analog or digital? Digital
Coreless motor
Ball bearings? Yes, 1
Metal gears? Yes
33mm length
.11 sec/60 42oz-in torque at 4.8v
User comments: The quickest, torquiest 1/12 scale servo with metal gears you can put in a Recoil, but it comes at a steep price. At 1.04oz, it's second heaviest to the Futaba S9602. Highly recommended by RCTech member "duneland" and fitment confirmed by "ammdrew."
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Last edited by kavvika; 10-29-2008 at 03:19 AM.
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Old 10-28-2008, 10:57 AM
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Adding some info ....


Airtronics 94761:
Photo
http://www.hobbyclub.com/images/94761Z.jpg

Airtronics 94761 Digital:
4.8V 55 Torque 0.15 sec/60
6.0V 66 Torque 0.15 sec/60

1.06 x 0.47 x 1.18 in. 0.80 oz.
Motor Std 3 Pole, Gears P/M, Bearings 2



JR Z3550:
http://www.bandbhobbies.com/shop/images/18.jpg

Specs
Torque: 38 oz/in at 6V
Speed: .11 sec/60 at 6V
Dimensions: 0.58 x 1.30 x 1.02in
Weight: 0.9 oz
Bearing: Dual output
Motor Type: Coreless
Gears: Nylon


JR Z3650:
http://www.readyheli.com/v/vspfiles/...PSZ3650-2T.jpg

Specs
Type: Digital
Torque: 42 oz/in @ 4.8V, 51 oz/in @ 6V
Speed: .11 sec/60 @ 4.8V, .09 sec/60 @ 6V
Dimensions (WxLxH): .58" x 1.30" x 1.02"
Weight: 1.04 oz.
Bearing: Single ball bearing
Motor Type: Coreless Motor
Gears: Metal Gears



I found the above information from this webpage:

www.12thscale.info


Note: I have not tested the above servos for fitment into the Recoil. I assume Kavvika was working on his post and will complete it later on.
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Old 10-28-2008, 07:12 PM
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Yup, I had to stop halfway through, there were more servos that I realized. Thanks for your help, I'll add that info to the servo post. That website you found is pretty informative. Must be where "duneland" first got a list of servos to try, since he recommended most of the ones listed there. What I don't understand is why two RCTech members recommend the HS-225 but you can't get it to work. I'm not going to add is until it's confirmed to work with the servo mounts. What part of the servo is getting in the way? Once I finish the servo list I'll add a small paragraph describing how to tighten up the servo saver, since it's made to protect the wimpy stock servo and is much too soft for a high torque or metal gear servo.

My ACS springs arrived today. Shipping was more than the price of both packages. One of the springs in the package of blues looks different than the rest, so I'll give Associated a call. It appears a much thicker spring with a different rate was either painted blue or a blue spring for another shock found its way into a ACS package. I'm about to order some spare spur gears and hinge pin mounts on eBay in preparation of getting the car running this weekend. Luckily the battery hold-down works with the Rhino LiPo I purchased, but only with the pack shifted all the way towards the front. I'd like to make a list of which LiPos, other than the overpriced Losi Mini Late Model/Slider pack, fit in place of a 6- or 7-cell 2/3A pack. This means a width of less than 32mm and a height of less than 18mm.

I think now would be a good time to share my idea for painting the clear body. After seeing a Scion tC painted in maroon the other day, I haven't been able to get that color out of my head! It was a super rich and deep color, unlike any maroon I have ever seen before. It's called "black cherry pearl," but I'm at a loss at how to paint it. My only guess is going with a light layer of Pactra Candy Purple, and then backing it with Pactra Metallic burgandy, hoping the second color would add a bit of sparkle and show through the candy coat.
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Old 10-28-2008, 10:10 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by kavvika View Post
What I don't understand is why two RCTech members recommend the HS-225 but you can't get it to work. I'm not going to add is until it's confirmed to work with the servo mounts. What part of the servo is getting in the way? Once I finish the servo list I'll add a small paragraph describing how to tighten up the servo saver, since it's made to protect the wimpy stock servo and is much too soft for a high torque or metal gear servo.
Right now i'm using the stock servo saver w/ the DS285mg. Should I go the HS65 route and upgrade it the Associated one? If it fits and works that is.

I would like to know how they got the 225 to work as well. Unless they "shoe-goo'd" it directly to the chassis, which I could see would fit /work. But I wanted to at least use the stock mounts and i'm fairly certain that using the the 2 straight mounts the servo wasnt wide enough.

Maybe tomorrow if I get some free time at work, I could email the guys that are using the 225mg and get some photos of their setup and how they installed it to helpout w/ this thread.


Side note, I would like to see the HS81mg sitting in this chassis as well. I have one in my gf's old micro and I have an HS85 in my micro. Not that I really wanted to tear open my micro again. But I do have access to those servos.
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Old 10-29-2008, 02:06 AM
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It's up to you. In some ways the 65 could be considered an upgrade, and in some, it's not. If you get the 65MG (as opposed to the 65BB), you can tighten up the servo saver, but you'll have to find the correct screw. I just don't know how the DS285MG became so popular. For $50, it's pretty weak and slow, but I suppose that's to be expected given it's tiny size. Also, the reason you heard buzzing from the servo is because it's digital. So that's normal. I'm not going to stop you from purchasing the 65, though. If you find one for a good price, pick it up to drop it in your Recoil. The 65 is almost sized between mount choices, so it's possible my calculations are incorrect and it will require a different set of mounts than what I specified.

Now, if you have a RC18 you know how sloppy the servo saver can be. The plastic spring must be modified or replaced to get adequate response. If you don't do that, you're better off with the stock saver. The XRay M18 servo saver is considered the best, end-all be-all replacement, but I don't have one to check fitment. I'll go over the rest of the servo saver modifications and replacement options tomorrow.

If you could unpack your micro RS4's to check fitment of either the 85 or 81, as I believe they use the same case, that'd be great. If not, no worries. I'll go back through those threads I linked to and download the pictures to check servos and mounts.
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Old 10-29-2008, 07:46 AM
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Sorry, I didn't really mean swapping the ds285mg for the 65 (right now at least). What I meant was, I have read that the HS65 works well with the Team Associated servo saver kit and the stock recoil saver does not work with the 65. So If the T.A servo saver works on the DS285mg, would it be a worthwhile saver upgrade over the stock version.

Yeah I dont have an M18 either, nor any local hobby shops that stock Xray parts.

I do have a loose (aka blown) HS81 and I'm sure I checked the fit when I was rebuilding it. I can't remember if I tried a combination of the offset and straight mounts however. But if a fellow managed to get it to fit.. then its possible (somehow).
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Old 10-29-2008, 10:57 PM
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Nerve, I hope this answers your question. RCUniverse user "Granger" posted this:
"Im using a HiTec HS-65MG for $40. Works fine I had to go with a servo arm that came with it instead of stock. Also had to widen the set holes a little with an Xato blade"
Going with a straight arm, forgoing the servo saver, with a MG servo is not a bad idea. This actually seems to be a nice set-up as you can't get more direct steering than that.

Edit: I have no idea what I was thinking when I wrote that. We already established that you don't want to swap out your 285MG for a 65MG. Doh! To answer your real question, I would not switch servo savers yet. The Recoil saver probably has the best centering of any options (other than maybe the XRay), but the spring is too soft for most servos. Maybe your 285MG can handle a stiffer spring. Try stiffening it up with a washer or two, or heading on down to your LHS or local hardware store, and seeing if you can find a stiffer spring from either a different model or in the generic springs drawer like ACE Hardware does.

I'm leaving for home tomorrow afternoon. The Recoil will be packed and my first stop will be Venture Hobbies to pick up a set of Deans. Then it's down the street to the tennis courts at the park.

Consider the servo list post completed. Feel free to inform me if I missed a servo. I did not include the JR Z3550, as it's discontinued. Depending on how late I stay up tonight, I'll finish a few more paragraphs to add to the original post.
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