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  #31  
Old 11-07-2008, 01:06 PM
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Next time I go out for a drive I'll bring a stopwatch so I can calculate my current draw. Of course, that's an average, but since I go full throttle most of the time, I'll have a good idea of peak current draw.

That's a great link describing the ESC's; thanks! I know that before Castle "officially" released the Sidewinder, they were replacing broken 25's with Sidewinders with a 25 sticker, and that they were differentiated by the power wires running the length of the PCB, as can be seen in the pictures of the MMP in that thread. You are correct in saying that the Sidewinder and Micro Pro PCB's are identical, other than the heatsink and relocated cap to fit in the plastic case, which is why I push others to save their money and get the Sidewinder. 25 amps is more than most people need for 1/18th use. My thought is that the MMP and Sidewinder FET's are both able to dissipate 35 amps if properly heatsinked. Since the Sidewinder has no heatsink, the FET's can only dissipate 25 amps and that's what Castle warranties the ESC's to. Of course, Castle builds in some buffer, so it's entirely possible the MMP can withstand 40 amps, but I would not even consider pushing 30 through the Sidewinder without a heatsink.

But now that I have a dead 25 ESC that I will send in for replacement, I have to make a decision. Castle said that a $30 "repair" fee would get me a new Sidewinder, and $40 would get me upgraded to a Mamba Micro Pro. I'm leaning towards the latter, since it holds a bit more resale value and would give me the peace of mind knowing I could run 3S with a tall gearing on the AON motor and still keep the warranty. Theoretically, the MMP should also be able to push a 28mm can as well, if I ever manage to snag a Wraith 7K.

Back to the driving reports. Last night once my track was empty (around 12), I grabbed the car and headed on out with my roommate, since he wanted to see it run. It felt a little slower, so I gave the LiPo a quick charge. It seems like it barely hits 40 now, even though the motor spins at the same pitch as before. Could be a bit of grit in the bearings, the smaller tires now that I wore them down, or just my imagination now that I'm used to the speed. Good thing I ordered the 3S last night!

I then realized I still haven't done a photoshoot of the car! I had a great idea for some night shots, but the lighting wasn't good where I was planning. I took a few pictures underneath a streetlight on an old sidestreet just on the other side of my apartment, so excuse the rough pavement. It always works out so that only one picture ends up being good enough for me to post. The rest are too blurry, dark, or I don't like the composition. Here's last night's winner:



P.S. Nerve, how come you only post around 9 in the morning? That's when I'm still asleep! Does this mean I'll always have to wait 24 hours for your next post?
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Last edited by kavvika; 11-07-2008 at 01:24 PM.
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  #32  
Old 11-07-2008, 06:46 PM
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Wow, Kav...you guys have totally left me behind on these. I guess I'm stuck in the mode of "If it ain't broke, don't fix it"...besides, the weather has been too lousy to go run.
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  #33  
Old 11-10-2008, 06:31 PM
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I had the most amazing weekend which slowly got worse yesterday when I had to buy a new phone and I realized I'm missing one of my favorite hoodies. I just got the Recoil assembled again after taking of the rear bulkhead to fit the 24 tooth pinion, which arrived today, and headed on out. The car started to make a terrible vibrating/grinding sound within the first speed run down a sidestreet and stopped moving on it's way back to me. A peek under the shell confirmed that the pinion grub screw had loosened and been flung off, the pinion is damaged after grinding away at the motor mount, and my spur has no teeth.

Looks like the car is down for the next 10 days until my paypal e-check clears and my purchase arrives. 3 spurs, a pack of hingepin mounts, and a set of purple foams should keep me going for awhile. Might even get the "chassis support bag" for the heatsink. At least I'll have some time to completely tear down and clean the car. Maybe even finish writing "Part 3."
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  #34  
Old 11-12-2008, 09:43 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by kavvika View Post
P.S. Nerve, how come you only post around 9 in the morning? That's when I'm still asleep! Does this mean I'll always have to wait 24 hours for your next post?
Or about 5 days...

Reason why I normally post at 9am is because ...... boredom @ work. (hey its 10:30am).

It is also usually the time when I start checking on my forums to see new posts and what I can contribute etc. I rarely do any forum checking at home now (why bother when I can get paid to check them). That way it leaves my evenings open to do other stuff.

Quote:
Originally Posted by kavvika View Post
But now that I have a dead 25 ESC that I will send in for replacement, I have to make a decision. Castle said that a $30 "repair" fee would get me a new Sidewinder, and $40 would get me upgraded to a Mamba Micro Pro. I'm leaning towards the latter, since it holds a bit more resale value and would give me the peace of mind knowing I could run 3S with a tall gearing on the AON motor and still keep the warranty. Theoretically, the MMP should also be able to push a 28mm can as well, if I ever manage to snag a Wraith 7K.
$10 more, might as well grab the MMP.


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Originally Posted by kavvika View Post
I then realized I still haven't done a photoshoot of the car! I had a great idea for some night shots, but the lighting wasn't good where I was planning. I took a few pictures underneath a streetlight on an old sidestreet just on the other side of my apartment, so excuse the rough pavement. It always works out so that only one picture ends up being good enough for me to post. The rest are too blurry, dark, or I don't like the composition. Here's last night's winner:
LOL yeah I was going to say, is that a new offroad prototype! I thought he must be nuts running on that!.






Excellent photo When I get mine back together and some paint on the lids, I will have to try some night photos. I have a Nikon D50 SLR and 18-55mm lens (only one lens so far).
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  #35  
Old 11-12-2008, 11:22 AM
nibble77 nibble77 is offline
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Hi guys could you tell me some servo on the hobbycity shop for me to upgrade my recooil/carisma team??
Thanks.
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  #36  
Old 11-13-2008, 12:12 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by nibble77 View Post
Hi guys could you tell me some servo on the hobbycity shop for me to upgrade my recooil/carisma team??
Thanks.
Honestly, I think most of them are more geared to flying or helis. I took a look around on their webpage for any servos that may work and I just gave up searching.

Kav might have some input. But a complete sizing and specs chart would be better to view all as one to figure out if something might work with the recoil.
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  #37  
Old 11-13-2008, 07:08 PM
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Don't worry nerve, I don't drive on that street! Much too bumpy.

nibble, you can use the measurements on the first page of this thread to find out which servos will fit. Just on the first page of servos on the hobbycity site, there's a few that should fit nicely with both offset mounts, such as the Corona Digital Servo, and any of the "Digital high torque bearing servos" with anodized cases. If I have some time later I'll give some links to those with good reviews.

I finished the complete tear-down, clean, and rebuild two nights ago. I should have pictures tonight. I'm also considering picking up a RTR-spec Recoil for a new "hi-speed project" once I sell a few things on eBay. I'll have a short write-up describing my plans for that soon.

Since the weather is getting colder and eventually the streets will be salted, it's nearing the winter "building" months. Can't drive outside, so I'm not sure what I'll be able to update this thread with. Of course, I'll try to get the clear body painted once I can figure out how to replicate the color I want. Since there's not much else that can be done with this Recoil, I might focus on my RC18R roller and start a thread on that. The plan is to make a "mini-Slash" CORR truck using 18T axles and wheels along with a TLT or DP Scorpion body. But that's only one of projects I have on my list. So many project ideas, and not enough time nor money!

This is unrelated to any of my mini's, but three nights ago I came across a listing for two BNIP examples of the rare, discontinued 4-Tec graphite rear shock tower. I've been searching for one for nearly a year now, but the only time I've seen one since then, it went for over $25 on eBay. I purchased both of them for $5.55 each, well below retail, which means Projekt Graphite-Tec is now officially completed!

In the meantime, here's a picture of the motor lot. Droolworthy, huh? One looks like the heatsinked heli motor(28x35, 3.2mm shaft, and either 3000kv or 3500kv), as seen on helihobby.com, and one of the four standard car versions came with a Factory Team RC18 heatsinked motor mount and pinion (a $15 value). I noticed that they all (car versions) have holes in the endbells, unlike the one I have in front of me. Might be due to different production runs. My dad said that a few were brand new, and the rest looked hardly used, i.e. free spinning, no dirt or grit in the bearings, and only a few scratches. I'll be home in a week; can't wait to test them all. Even if only two or three work, it's still a hell of a deal.


And I managed to snap a decent topless shot tonight:
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Last edited by kavvika; 11-14-2008 at 02:31 AM.
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  #38  
Old 11-14-2008, 04:47 PM
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To the motor photo:


I'am still waiting on the Acer 3mm Diff balls to come in. Two weeks ago the LHS ordered in 2 packs and had them there for me, stopped in there this past wednesday and they were no where to be found.

So I placed an order for another pack of balls (need 24 outta 30). So if he can't find them he would reorder anyways. Unorganized hobby shop without a POS terminal to track what goes out. They can only track what has been ordered via the GPdealer webpage.

So eventually I will get around to updating my build thread. My thread will be somewhat active throughout the winter racing months as I change this and that along the way. Plus with two (three if I do the Tailwhip body I won) bodies that still need some colour on them.

Hopefully that HC HXT Motor shows up soon. I want see this thing in the 'coil.
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  #39  
Old 11-15-2008, 07:56 AM
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Hopefully that HC HXT Motor shows up soon. I want see this thing in the 'coil.
Ask and yee shall receive! LOL

Got home last night and the motor was there at home. Four or five days from Hong Kong. I believe it shipped sometime November 10th or 11th and arrived yesterday. I received the confirmation of ship email at 9pm on the 11th.

Stay tuned to my build thread for photos when I finish work today.

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Last edited by Nerve; 11-15-2008 at 08:30 AM.
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  #40  
Old 11-19-2008, 03:09 PM
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a few questions

Kav, i have been reading this thread so much in the past few days since my recoil pro arrived that i nearly have it memorized. the wealth of info here is more useful than i've seen on any build thread that i can recall. thank you. so far i have purchased a novak mongoose esc w/the 13.5t 380 motor, a maxamps 1100mah 2s 7.4v pack, magenta foams, and various sizes of pinion gears. three main things in your thread that i can't decide how to handle are the diffs., shocks, and which servo to get. i'm pretty sure the servo is going to be the S9602, does that mount up fairly easily? as far as the diffs. i found
those vendetta diffs. on tower for 24.99, i'll spend the $50 if they will drop right in, so do you know if they will?
Quote:
Associates VCS springs in half gave the perfect tuning spring for the shocks.
and do you have a link for these springs? i was going to also buy a carisma body, but i can't find one of those anywhere either. i think i'm gonna do a black and yellow paint shceme on the clear mazda 6 body with carbon fiber painted on the hood and trunk lid. anyway thanks for the help, i'll post some pics. when i'm all done.
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  #41  
Old 11-20-2008, 06:52 PM
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Many thanks (and you're welcome), glad you found this thread useful!

So far I've seen no wear on the outdrives after the 8-10 hard runs I put on the car before I stripped the spur gear. The Vendetta diffs. require a bit of massaging to fit properly (a bit of file/dremel work) and were a recommended upgrade before the Pro with its ball diffs was released. I'd recommend just picking up a spare set of outdrives to make sure you'll be able to keep running the car in the years to come after parts support dries up. When the time comes that you wear out two sets of outdrives, I'm sure by them you'll be able to find Recoil rollers on the Bay for under $40, if you don't already have a spare chassis for parts. What I'm trying to say is, unless you really want to mod something, you won't need the Vendetta diffs. Just replace the balls on the ball diffs with 3mm Robitronics Scalpel balls, lube with associated Stealth grease, and you'll have a smooth diff.

The S9602 servo drops right in with the two straight mounts. The threaded linkage that connects the servo saver to the bellcrank need to be threaded in all the way, with the output spline of the servo closer to the centerline of the chassis. The servo wire exits at a sharp angle next to the front chassis brace, but it doesn't seem to be pinched, so it should be fine. This is the servo I use, and while a tad heavy, I have no complaints.

If you do a towerhobbies search for "Associated VCS" you'll see 6 different springs. Some are marked "1/10" and others are marked "1/12". Confusing, but in fact, they're the same. If you take a look at the VCS rates on the Associated Spring Rate Chart (bottom left) you can pick the springs you want, and search for that item number or color on towerhobbies, or ebay, or wherever you choose to buy them from. Any of the four heavier rates (10.0-16.0) would be a good choice depending on where you choose to drive. Keep the heavier of the two rates up front, and match the oil to the spring rate. If you'll be driving indoors on carpet, copper fronts with any other color in the rear (red is popular, though) would work fine. For street or parking lot bashing, I've been satisfied with gold fronts and blue rears.

Hope that answers your questions!

Oh, also, what brand of pinion gears did you buy? A few pinions have a very short shoulder and only contact part of the spur gear, only some are long enough to come in contact with the entire thickness of the spur. This is why I like the mini-LST pinions, but they can only be used with a 24mm or larger can motor (like the AON or 28mm Mongoose) due to the high tooth counts. I'll elaborate more on that in part 3.

One last thing I remembered regarding the Vendetta diffs. Many have been asking for a front one-way for the Recoil but do to it's discontinuation, it's not likely to happen. Duratrax just started selling a one-way for the new Vendetta TC that slips in the stock gear differential replacing the gears. Since the Vendetta ball diff fits into the Recoil, I'd assume the stock gear diff does as well, which means the one-way could be incorporated. Just thinking out loud...
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  #42  
Old 11-21-2008, 11:22 AM
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i bought novak 1/8" aluminum and hardened steel pinions, because that's all my lhs had in stock to fit the 380 motor. i haven't put the motor in the recoil yet, but i did mount it to the motor mount slide, and try ro slide it in there to gauge how well it would fit. i think proper gear mesh will be difficult. i have already ordered 3 more spurs from a main. i also may have to make the motor hole on the lower chasis a little bigger. my plan today is to buy a s9602 and put that in first. then i can figure out the best way to mount the mongoose esc and my spektrum reciever. hoping i don't have to buy the $99 spektrum micro reciever. i'm gonna run this on a carpet track (hence the sensored system), so thanks for the spring suggstions. i wonder if those mlst pinions will fit my motor? novak only makes them up to 17t as far as i know. thanks too for tip about the scalpel balls and the stealth grease, i'm gonna run the diffs stock for practice with the car, and change the diff. setup as needed. maybe i will try that one-way up front and let you guys know how it goes. this is my first attempt at on-road racing, so this thread has really been helpful, i will be posting every few days to let you guys know how i'm doing.
until now i've been running 1/8 buggy, and my e-revo (w/novak 4.5 hv pro and orion 2s 3800 carbon fiber ed. on 23mm bowties). this recoil and the e-revo are my only two electrics, and the e-revo has been a huge challenge due to heat problems from having such a voltage hungry motor (i have a 6.5t on the way from novak now). what i'm trying to say i guess is that i want to do this one right the first time and you guys are helping me to achieve that goal, so all your input is much appreciated.
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  #43  
Old 11-21-2008, 12:40 PM
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With the S9602 servo and Mongoose ESC, it'll be cramped on the lower deck. I doubt you'll be able to mount both the RX and ESC there, even if you get the smaller SR3500. I'm running my SR3000 on the lower deck snuggled against the servo and the Sidewinder ESC up top, but since it's a mere few grams (single tiny PCB with plastic shrink wrap) it doesn't affect CG much at all. Before you buy the SR3500 new for a bill, check out RCTech.net. You should be able to find them for around $60 all day long.

You're the first person I know of that's running a Mongoose system. Nice to see someone has the money to do things right! I love the sensored system in my Rustler, shame I can pump more than 7.4V into my system, though. I believe the Mongoose is the first non-HV sensored ESC to be able to work with a 3S LiPo. I'd love to hear your driving reports and experiences, as well as pictures of how it all fits.

Mini-LST pinions will not fit the Mongoose motor unless you drill them out. They're made for a 2mm shaft, but if you chuck the pinion into a drill, clamp a bit to a vice, you should be able to make it work. For the 13.5 motor, Novak rates the unloaded kv at 6,000, which when geared with a 17T pinion, should give you some carpet-shredding torque. For a small track, this seems to be a nice gearing. Unless you find you still have too much speed after testing, I wouldn't go much lower.
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Last edited by kavvika; 11-21-2008 at 12:42 PM.
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  #44  
Old 11-21-2008, 07:12 PM
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check out what i just won on ebay.

kav, you were right about finding a cheap rolling chasis on e-bay!


http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll...EOIBSA:US:1123

i just got this for $56 plus $10 for shippng. now i have a spare. went servo shopping today. my wonderful lhs didn't have any s9602's in stock and
i am itchin to drive this thing so i bought an hs-65mg (it was either that or the jrds285, and the jr only pulls like 18oz-in.) i'll see how this hitec servo does, and order an s9602 in the meantime. well i'm gonna get building, i'll post again later.
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  #45  
Old 11-21-2008, 08:50 PM
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Ahaha, that was YOU who won that auction!? I was watching that listing and planning on winning it, but of course it ended while I was at class this morning. Glad to see it stayed in the community, though.

Let me know what mounts the 65 uses so I can confirm my measurements on the first page of this thread. I think it should use both offset mounts.
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