So who's replaced the wires in the stock Losi esc with something a bit better???
Removing them at the circuit board and replacing them lowers the electrical resistance, resulting in more power and speed from the same batteries and motors.
I bought a couple feet of Aero brand (18AWG) high quality racing type multi-stranded silicon insulated 1/24th scale slotcar wire that's a little bigger than the factory wires. Wasn't sure if it would fit through the holes in the esc board and the board is very thin! I've changed wires like this many times on 1/10 scale esc's...but they were all bigger wires and a much thicker circuit board to start with...didn't want to burn up the esc with too much heat from the soldering iron.
Use a good quality high temp iron (50 watt Weller pencil style with a small chisel tip is what I used) as this will actually put less heat into the pcb than a lower wattage iron. A hotter iron heats the pb more quickly and therefore the heat doesn't soak the whole pcb. Always let the pcb sit for a minute before doing the next joint, so that the entire pcb returns to room temperature otherwise you may damage your esc.
Be very careful, there are several very small smt (surface mounted, not through-hole) soldered resistors or capacitors right next to the wires. Use a solder sucker to remove excess solder quickly and cleanly without any damage....just heat and suck the solder off the pcb. This is a great way to clean the through-holes where the wires solder to the pcb, before you install the new wires. I have one of those little weighted devices (a third hand!) with several alligator clamps and a magnigying glass for holding the little pcb, wires, etc while soldering which rmakes soldering very small pieces much easier!
I hard-wired the esc to the motors while keeping the wires short enough, but long enough to open and close the battery cover without a hassle. On the batteries and ESC I used Dean's Micro Plug 2NB, part number 1225 because I like the small size and easier to un-plug than the Dean's connectors that are usually used for 1/10th scale batteries. They seem to be plenty heavy duty enough for the stock 1/18th dual motors. Next I'll try putting the same wire on my batteries. Always use the female half of the plug on the battery and the male on the esc, so that it is more difficult for the battery to get shorted out while in your pit box.
FYI, this is not a solder job for soldering newbies...practice on something else until you are proficient. An old pcb makes good practice...remove and re-install smt and through-hole components until you are competent...the thinner and smaller the pcb the more difficult this is. A good reading on how to solder PROPERLY is recommended before the first step.
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After running a pack through it after this cheap mod...what a difference!!! Waaaay better accleration, and at least 2 or 3 mph more top speed, maybe a lil bit more.
EDIT:
1/32 scale leadwire should be the same if it's from a good track/hobby shop. I used Aero brand, Rebel is good too...both have very high strand count for flexiblility and current carrying ability and silicone insulation. The Dean's will definitely help as will the hardwiring of the motors.
Link to the best slotcar mag/website:
http://www.scaleautoracing.com/index.html
Find a slot car track/hobby shop near you:
http://www.scaleautoracing.com/rcwys/klm.html