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  #1  
Old 03-29-2007, 10:15 PM
MajorGeek MajorGeek is offline
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battery quick change

I just got my Micro-T and I'm sticking with the Ni-MH for now. I bought a second battery and my questions is is there a way to change out batteries fast, like a kit, or do i have to unscrew the compartment each time to change out the battery? It's a hassle to mess with those screws and I couldn't imagine doing it off of my work bench area since I have to lay down white paper so I don't lose those screws. Any help here would be appreciated. Thanks
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  #2  
Old 03-30-2007, 01:30 AM
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Geek: As far as I know there is not any kind of a work around for that. When at home or at the track I work over a scroungy old stolen white hotel towel. Keeps those little screws in play. Oh, and I use my best reading glasses too.
Getting old is better than the alternative.
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  #3  
Old 03-30-2007, 06:43 AM
MajorGeek MajorGeek is offline
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tools?

Of course, Team Losi recommends that purchase their tools to work on the Micro-T, but the instructions do make a good point, beyond a sales pitch, that their tools are made to work with the small screws and not strip them. I haven't seen a screw drive from Losi, just the nut driver so far. What tools do you use? I have an old small screw driver with a magnetic tip and haven't stripped anything yet, but I am having trouble lining the screws back up and think I started cross threading one side of the battery compartment since that screw doesn't want to go in straight or as easy as the other side. Guess this is just a general question about recommended tools to work on the Micro-T. Thanks again.

*edit* is there something like the hexscrew conversion for the Mini-T out there for the Micro?

Last edited by MajorGeek; 03-30-2007 at 06:55 AM. Reason: forgot something
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  #4  
Old 03-30-2007, 08:40 AM
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For the + and - screw drivers I use a 30 year old set of X-ACTO screwdrivers. They are finally starting to show some wear so I am contemplating getting another set. Hex-screws would be good but, boy that would be a tiny and fragile driver. I have found that I am more likely to strip a hex screw hole than a phillips. I don't know of any hex head conversion kit for the micro, but it might be out there.
Ron
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  #5  
Old 03-30-2007, 09:03 AM
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You can always switch out the screws to button head screws.....just take a sample of the screw to your lhs and ask the salesperson......you might also want to check out the Dubro's line of button head screws.......they hold up very well. Thats what i did to my RC18t, i switched everything over to Dubro's.
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  #6  
Old 03-30-2007, 08:01 PM
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You know if the battery plate was glued on and there was a hole in the side of the chassis then all you’d have to do is pop off the chassis pull the battery out and slap in a new one in oh I don’t know maybe 25 seconds or so, less if the body was held on by Velcro.

Ya ya, and that way you could even use longer battery packs like 195mAh NiMH 4-cells, oh golly gee I bet if you cut a hole in the opposite side too could even use really long batteries like 10440 lithium ion packs and still swap them out in seconds.

Na, wouldn’t work, or would it?









Ok it does, and quite well. I remove the metal standoffs first, epoxy the battery cover in place then once it’s cured use a rotary tool and ¼” drum sander bit for the holes and to. If you’re using LiPo cells use a file to square off the right side hole until the pack just fits, if not leave the corners rounded.
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  #7  
Old 04-01-2007, 12:53 AM
MajorGeek MajorGeek is offline
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very cool

That is an awesome mod. How long have you had it that way? I'm just concerned about the durability of the chassis with the sides cut off like that. Any problems with the batteries sliding around, or do you just use some Velcro, or something similar to hold them on place? This is what I was looking for, thanks. Now, I just have to break out the Dremel I got for Xmas and build up the courage to cut up my new toy (how much are replacement chassis?). Thanks again.
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  #8  
Old 04-01-2007, 02:27 AM
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Have had two this way since December, so far no problems at all. If you do alot of extreem jumping and bashing there are several ways you could reinforce the top and/or bottom for added strength. But then if one ever does break a new chassis is only $5.

Then there’s the Exo-T chassis from Ripper7, been thinking I need one of his, it's just that little bit longer so you can fit some interesting battery packs.

Or 3Racing has a carbon fiber chassis in the works, there projected price is a bit much but I suspect it won’t be long before everyone has one and prices will be quite reasonable.

Last edited by lbrc; 04-01-2007 at 02:32 AM.
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  #9  
Old 04-02-2007, 06:50 PM
MajorGeek MajorGeek is offline
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Here's the link to 3racing Mirco-T parts:http://www.3racing.com.hk/x_search.jsp
It does not give a lot of details about how it holds the battery, but it does look like a large area for different batteries.
Here's the Exo-T http://www.ripper7racing.com/r7rforu...read.php?t=788
and the New Micro-T CF chassishttp://www.ripper7racing.com/r7rforu...read.php?t=563
I don't see how the batteries are held in here though but they do look great.
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  #10  
Old 04-02-2007, 11:54 PM
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Friction, I was careful to keep it a tight squeeze on the left while looser on the right so when you push a pack in it catches and stays, even the larger 10440’s don’t move with hard hits and rolls, then there’s the body that acts as a last ditch backup. On one of the cars I did use of drop of rtv to tighten it up for smaller packs.
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  #11  
Old 04-11-2007, 01:27 PM
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i am working on making a quick change battery set up right now. If it works like planned, i will be posting pics up soon.
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  #12  
Old 04-22-2007, 12:20 AM
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Thumbs up GREAT SUCCESS using 2 x $3 BatterySpace.com 10440's

Now this little thing FLIES and lasts TWICE AS LONG; batteries don't even get slightly warm!

There were some concerns that the batteries wouldn't hold up to the motor's high amp draw, but I've had nothing but success with these things!

Here's my success checklist:
  • QTY2 of BatterySpace.com's $3 model 10440 Li-Ion batteries wired in series for a total of $6
  • One $4 PCB from BatterySpace.com to protect your batteries and your Micro-T from a fire
  • $50-60 Li-Ion charger (this thing charges nearly EVERYTHING!); sign up for their newsletter & get a $10 off $50 coupon, plus when I added the item to my cart, I got an instant $10 off (maybe a fluke)
  • If you can't afford the above mentioned charger (it is a bit pricey), you can try BatterySpace.com's Smart Charger for $10 (note that it's only for one cell so you'll need to wire your batteries to be able to charge one at a time)
  • No hair in your rotating parts
  • Wheel bearings
  • Tranny with one screw slightly loose (1/2-3/4 turn); use your finger to turn the spur gear (motor removed) to see which screw makes the difference
  • Correct pinion/spur gear mesh
  • Commutator drops - no drilling required since there's already a hole in the side of the motor at the back of the Micro-T
  • Soldering Iron
  • Solder
  • 18 or 20 guage/awg silicone wire
  • Dremel or drill to carve up your Micro-T; I recommend removing the metal posts prior to glueing since they are very difficult to carve and lose all structural integrity when they are cut in half anyway
  • Glue for the battery cover and battery pack; I used Shoe Goo
  • Electrical tape to cover your connections

Last edited by Bonkrs4Stompers; 04-24-2007 at 07:21 AM. Reason: weblinks were too long
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  #13  
Old 04-24-2007, 02:25 AM
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here is my soloution. 1/8th inch rare earth magnets!
Attached Images
File Type: jpg rc 003.jpg (52.9 KB, 23 views)
File Type: jpg rc 005.jpg (51.5 KB, 18 views)
File Type: jpg rc 007.jpg (48.2 KB, 15 views)
File Type: jpg rc 008.jpg (40.1 KB, 14 views)
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  #14  
Old 04-24-2007, 08:14 AM
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So how is the hold with the magnets......especially in a small jump, the cover doesnt plop off does it.
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  #15  
Old 04-24-2007, 09:54 AM
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........and what about the weight? Good job, I really like the idea of the magnets, but I would worry about the weight increase.
Ron
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