YourMicro.com - HPI Micro RS4, Losi Mini-T, XRay M18, Forums, News, Pictures, Parts, and Shop
Forums, M18, M18T, RC18T, Mini-LST, Mini-T, Micro RS4, XRay, 1/18, 18th scale
M18 Hop-Ups, M18 Parts, Mini-LST Hop-Ups, Mini-LST Parts, Kyosho, Atomic, 3Racing, Country Alloy Works, Castle Creations, Trinity, Intellect, United RC, Battery Packs, 2/3A
  #1  
Old 09-01-2008, 05:08 PM
VxRoKxV's Avatar
VxRoKxV VxRoKxV is offline
Registered User
 
Join Date: Jun 2007
Location: duluth, minnesota
Posts: 19
Send a message via AIM to VxRoKxV
connectors

ok on the charger i have its got the standard connectors,
but on the pp its small standards... is there a way i can change that?
Reply With Quote
  #2  
Old 09-02-2008, 08:33 AM
BilboBaggins's Avatar
BilboBaggins BilboBaggins is offline
Registered User
 
Join Date: Jun 2007
Posts: 95
Quote:
Originally Posted by VxRoKxV View Post
ok on the charger i have its got the standard connectors,
but on the pp its small standards... is there a way i can change that?
Yes a few ways.

1. Buy a set of large and small plugs and make an adapter to connect your battery and charger.
2. Convert the battery and charger to DEAN's plugs by cutting off the old plugs and soldiering on the new deans plugs.
__________________
Sitting in my comfortable little Hobbit Hole fixing Micro/Mini RC's.
Reply With Quote
  #3  
Old 09-02-2008, 03:04 PM
VxRoKxV's Avatar
VxRoKxV VxRoKxV is offline
Registered User
 
Join Date: Jun 2007
Location: duluth, minnesota
Posts: 19
Send a message via AIM to VxRoKxV
well im bad at soldering so ill try the first optionn
Reply With Quote
  #4  
Old 09-02-2008, 03:13 PM
BilboBaggins's Avatar
BilboBaggins BilboBaggins is offline
Registered User
 
Join Date: Jun 2007
Posts: 95
Quote:
Originally Posted by VxRoKxV View Post
well im bad at soldering so ill try the first optionn
The best way to get good at soldiering is by practice. Nobody is great the first time at something they try.
__________________
Sitting in my comfortable little Hobbit Hole fixing Micro/Mini RC's.
Reply With Quote
  #5  
Old 09-02-2008, 04:01 PM
Russ Winn's Avatar
Russ Winn Russ Winn is offline
Registered User
 
Join Date: Jan 2008
Location: Winter Haven, FL
Posts: 343
I would have to go with Bilbo's option 2...Deans' are best plugs out there, bar none.

A couple of tips for you:
Use 60/40 rosin core solder. (best electrical conductivity).
Get some soldering flux. It's usually a paste in a jar or tube. (makes solder flow easier).
Get some heat shrink tubing. (for insulation).
All of the above items can be found at the local hardware store.

Put a dab of flux on the wire, then just enough solder to "tin" the wire. Do the same for the plug lead. Next, put some shrink tubing on the wire, far enough down so it doesn't shrink. Then put the wire onto the plug lead and touch it with the iron. It should flow together, without any excess solder glob. Lastly, slide the tubing up over the joint and hit it with a bic lighter to shrink it...presto!

Hope this helps...good luck and don't burn your fingers.
__________________
If it don't fit, force it...If it breaks, it needed replacing anyway.
Reply With Quote
  #6  
Old 09-02-2008, 08:46 PM
BilboBaggins's Avatar
BilboBaggins BilboBaggins is offline
Registered User
 
Join Date: Jun 2007
Posts: 95
If you use 60/40 rosin core solder you really don't need flux because the rosin core is flux.

Remember a very hot iron is nearly always the best choice. It'll make the solder flow quicker and you can remove the heat away from the electronics quicker.
__________________
Sitting in my comfortable little Hobbit Hole fixing Micro/Mini RC's.
Reply With Quote
  #7  
Old 09-11-2008, 09:46 AM
Crunc Crunc is offline
Registered User
 
Join Date: Sep 2008
Posts: 23
I am new to RCs and so my Megatech Megapro Buggy is the first RC car (well, real one) that I've owned. I've been loving it and decided I wanted a better/faster charger, so I figured that the Megatech Megapeak charger should work easily, but I just got it yesterday only to find that it doesn't have the right kind of connector. There is an adapter cable and in fact it has what appears to be the right kind of connector on it, but it is the wrong gender! I.e. it is the same gender of plug as is on the battery. So I guess what I need is an adapter. Is there a place that sells a ready-made adapter that goes from the Megapeak's standard plug to the (correct gender) MegaPro battery plug? Alternatively, is there a small standard gender change adapter? I've searched and searched but haven't had much luck. For one thing I'm really unclear on what the proper name for these connecters is. Is it a "Tamiya" connector and is there a regular and small version?

I did find, but for some reason can't find it now, that Megatech has a "coming soon" adapter for the Megapro for the Megapeak charger, but it's coming soon and I can't find it listed at any online hobby shops.

EDIT: I found the part listing at megatech and the part number for their "coming soon" adapter (if it is really coming soon - I couldn't find it by doing a regular search, I found it via a google search, but searching for it on their website itself turns up nothing) is MTC73121. The parts are listed for "ProPulse" instead of MegaPro, so it makes me wonder if this line is really still supported. Here's the page with all the parts: http://www.megatech.com/Pro-Pulse-parts.php

EDIT2: I finally located the part. It isn't listed anywhere and it isn't listed at the rchobbyexplosion.com web site at all, but if you call them they do actually have it and apparently have had it for some time. I told them they should list the things on the web site and they certainly agreed. Megatech also needs to do something about their wildly confusing web site. For on thing the toll-free number listed there doesn't work, the correct number is 1-800-242-1931. The manual that came with my car and the charger both list the non-working number too. Also, sending email to sales@megetech.com or support@megatech.com immediately returns a "Failed to Deliver" message, but actually my message had gone through because I ended up getting a response after all. They told me to call that 800 number, which I did, and they sent me to rchobbyexplosion.com and when I told them that the part wasn't on that web site they were confused and told me to call rchobbyexplosion which, as noted, finally netted me the part. Fortunately they agreed to send the thing first class instead of priority to save on shipping. Sigh. Megatech is a mess. I gather that that's the general opinion anyway.

Last edited by Crunc; 09-11-2008 at 10:49 AM.
Reply With Quote
  #8  
Old 09-11-2008, 12:59 PM
Crunc Crunc is offline
Registered User
 
Join Date: Sep 2008
Posts: 23
Quote:
Originally Posted by RERacing View Post
I "think" you're going to have an ever on-going and ever-growing issue with trying to find individual as well as upgrade parts for your ProPulse.

But have heart.

Since it's basically MegaTech's clone of the Team Associated RC18 series http://www.teamassociated.com/ae/18t/18t_home.htm there are a ton of (if not all) parts that are interchangable from one to the other - so everything should be available from your local hobby shop or any online shop that handles RC18 goodies.

As far as any plugs and things, personally I'd look into changing your stuff over to Dean's Plugs - do a search here (or other places) and you can find out all the info about them - as they are going to be far superior to the junky ones you're dealing with.
Thanks for that info! Is there a list somewhere of what is and isn't interchangeable between these cars? One specific thing I'm going to need to pick up at some point are shocks. One of mine is not screwing together exactly correctly and tends to pop apart. This is after many a crash, mind you.

What is wrong with the connectors on the MegaPro other then that they seem to be less common (which is an issue, but other than that)? I've now at least figured out that they are called "small Tamiya" connectors. At least that's what I think they are. They seem to work fine.
Reply With Quote
  #9  
Old 09-11-2008, 08:29 PM
Crunc Crunc is offline
Registered User
 
Join Date: Sep 2008
Posts: 23
Quote:
Originally Posted by RERacing View Post
They have a lot of resistance, don't handle current very well, and are known to melt down.
Ah. Does that imply that I might actually get higher speeds if I switch to Deans, due to the lower resistance? I'm not savvy when it comes to electronics, so if that's a stupid question, just tell me.

If I switch to deans, do I want to use "Ultra Deans" or "Micro Deans" for this car? I presume "Micro Deans"?

Also, any suggestion on what wattage of soldering iron to use? I have a soldering iron, but it is a lower power one for working on circuit boards.
Reply With Quote
  #10  
Old 09-12-2008, 06:35 AM
Crunc Crunc is offline
Registered User
 
Join Date: Sep 2008
Posts: 23
Could problems with the connector show up as hesitation with the car? I was driving it yesterday with one of the 1400 mAh batteries I recently picked up and it would occasionally seem to hesitate when I hit the throttle, usually when going backward, but also sometimes forward. I'd release and press again and it would work normally again. When I was running with the 1200 mAh battery I would see hesitation or stuttering, but it always happened when the car was slowing down and the battery obviously running out of power. Here the car seemed to be running as fast as when I started. Connector issue or something else?
Reply With Quote
  #11  
Old 09-12-2008, 10:58 AM
Crunc Crunc is offline
Registered User
 
Join Date: Sep 2008
Posts: 23
I didn't mean I'd gone from forward to reverse quickly. I was stopped and then went in reverse. Or I was stopped, and then went forward. Intermittently when doing this the car wouldn't move. I'd let go, then press again and it would work.

In fact, I accidentally went from reverse to forward at one point (or maybe the other way 'round) and the MegaPro didn't delay anything, it just immediately went the other way, so it doesn't seem to have such a delay feature.
Reply With Quote
  #12  
Old 09-12-2008, 01:06 PM
alfred's Avatar
alfred alfred is offline
Super Moderator
 
Join Date: Jun 2004
Location: virginia beach
Posts: 10,129
Send a message via AIM to alfred Send a message via MSN to alfred Send a message via Yahoo to alfred
Make sure that you dont have any loose connections with the battery to the esc, and you might want to also check the solder points on the motor as well.
__________________
Xray M18
MRS4-1
540 MRS4
Spektrumized
Reply With Quote
  #13  
Old 09-13-2008, 02:59 PM
Crunc Crunc is offline
Registered User
 
Join Date: Sep 2008
Posts: 23
I found a problem which may actually the cause of the above noted issue, but it has nothing to do with batteries, so I'll move this discussion to the general thread....
Reply With Quote
  #14  
Old 09-14-2008, 09:04 AM
Russ Winn's Avatar
Russ Winn Russ Winn is offline
Registered User
 
Join Date: Jan 2008
Location: Winter Haven, FL
Posts: 343
Just as a comparison, the Novak Spy has the delay you spoke about. The delay will kick in after braking from forward to reverse, and is a type of protector for drivelines. (Most don't have the feature from reverse to forward.) If you set up the radio throttle trim (chan 2) to neutral, and then set up the ESC, it should be optimum.
__________________
If it don't fit, force it...If it breaks, it needed replacing anyway.
Reply With Quote
  #15  
Old 09-14-2008, 07:35 PM
Crunc Crunc is offline
Registered User
 
Join Date: Sep 2008
Posts: 23
Quote:
Originally Posted by Russ Winn View Post
Just as a comparison, the Novak Spy has the delay you spoke about. The delay will kick in after braking from forward to reverse, and is a type of protector for drivelines. (Most don't have the feature from reverse to forward.) If you set up the radio throttle trim (chan 2) to neutral, and then set up the ESC, it should be optimum.
Ah - I was wondering about that. If there was a way to brake. I've been hesitant to push it into reverse while moving forward. Is there any way to tell if doing that will only apply braking force, rather then actually switching into reverse?
Reply With Quote
Reply

Bookmarks

Thread Tools
Display Modes

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Forum Jump


All times are GMT -5. The time now is 03:27 AM.


Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.7.3
Copyright ©2000 - 2017, Jelsoft Enterprises Ltd.
Copyright 2007 YourMicro.com
Mini Inferno Sale - Up to $85 Instant Savings!
Micro-T Hop-Ups
RC18R, M18, Micro RS4, Mini-LST, TamTech-Gear, Minizilla, RC18T, RC18B, RC18MT
Mini-Z, Mini-Z Racer, MR-02, MA-010
M18, M18T, RC18T, Mini-LST, Mini-T, Micro RS4, XRay, 1/18, 18th scale
XMODS, XMOD, Micro Flight, ZipZaps, ZipZaps SE, Bit Char-G, MicroSizers, TTTT, Plantraco Desktop Rover, SuperSlicks, Digi Q
Mini Inferno, Mini Inferno ST, half EIGHT, 1/16, 16th scale
Epoch, Indoor Racer, 1/43, 43rd scale
E-Savage, eSavage, eZilla, e-Zilla, HPI
Robots, Bots, Bipeds, Wheeled, Manoi, Roomba, NXT, Lego, Hacking
Crawling, Crawlers, Micro, RC, Losi Mini-Rock Crawler, Duratrax Cliff Climber
Mini-Z Hop-Ups, Mini-Z Parts, Mini Inferno Hop-Ups, Mini Inferno Parts, M18 Hop-Ups, M18 Parts