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  #1  
Old 04-01-2007, 03:12 PM
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sescallier sescallier is offline
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My theory and experiences with the rc18.

Ok, I have had my RC18 for a while, and have altered it in a zillion ways, here is what I think-have learned.


Chassis- Stick with the stock, keep an eye out for the DP Delrin chassis, for carpet Carbon is fine.

Motor- If you decide to go brushless look beyond Mamba, Quark-Hacker, Wraith, C4, Aon, are better.

Servos- In my experience even the hs56 is fine, otherwise look towards more torque.

Steering- DP steering link, get metal stuff if you want to reduce slop more, mine works fine with the basic plastic stuff.

Radio- For a cheap and good radio look to the Futaba FM3.

Shocks- The threaded team shocks are great, green slime them, got for something like 40-45 in rear, 70 in front.

Battery- I1400s are nice, Lipo is insane, it drops so much weight.

Accesories-

DP gear cover is a must.

Robinson Racing hardened .5 mod pinion gears are nice.

Aluminum is junk, stick with plastic IMHO, your weight will be less, and its waaay cheaper and easier to replace, Keep your eyes out for RPM A arms coming soon!

I dislike Titanium links, they are heavier, IMHO dont move as well, plus the flex of stock AE links is minimal and can stop potential servo-chassis type damage, IMHO breaking points on steering-suspension-drivetrain are essential to protect more important stuff.

IMHO the drivetrain is the only real weak point of the vehicle, Shims and gear cover fix 95% of this, the other 5% is necessary, like stuff wearing out.

DP and RPM make amazing stuff, RPM bumper is a must, DP gear cover, steering link and Shock retainers are top notch, also like I said look for the RPM arms.

CVDs of course are a must.

IMHO the Screws type sets are not worth it, I still have a set sitting here, also roll cages are not worth it.

A good way to stiffen your chassis is with a Diggity Designs top plate, also check out their shock towers, battery strap, ect.

Rubber sealed bearings can be good, mainly good for dirt, ceramic bearings are good for indoors, though I think the weight of the cars couldnt damage ceramics anyways, bearings are expensive, so do research and they are a non essential minimal add on, something to squeese a little speed out.

IMHO, those aluminum arms-casters-towers are not needed, they add weight, alot of unsprung weight, and screws loosen from them if not loc-tighted, also you make more important things weak points then, plastic is cheap and easy to fix, keep these as weak points, and keep your weight down-speed up... Also the shiny metal is a dime a dozen now... And aluminum wheels are garbage...;lkjkl;




---------I am truly thinking less bling-more zing----------


I had a truck that was all factory billet-lunsford-ect out, with mamba-mamba combo...


The config I have now absolutely demolishes that truck config in every way, all i need now is to get rid of this mamba motor and get something strong....






Also I do know weight can add to high speed stability, I however think buying huge lipos and high KV motors to reach top speed it where you need weight, for low-mid speed precision driving-racing I think low weight is better, thus this is how I set it up.


And feedback positive or negative is welcome, also any further tips are welcome.

Last edited by sescallier; 04-01-2007 at 03:14 PM.
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Old 04-01-2007, 04:22 PM
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alfred alfred is offline
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Your setup looks good man, but the only thing i can suggest is shortening the wires to make it look clean, what are you using to hold down the elec's....
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Last edited by alfred; 04-01-2007 at 04:25 PM.
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  #3  
Old 04-01-2007, 05:32 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by alfred View Post
Your setup looks good man, but the only thing i can suggest is shortening the wires to make it look clean, what are you using to hold down the elec's....
Ahhh, I dont solder so I am not really in a position right now to alter the wires length...


Most of my stuff is now held down with velcro, I find its nice if you do alot of swiching, though I am likely gonna add something else as a helper for holding down my ESC.
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Old 04-01-2007, 06:58 PM
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Velcro is nice but if you want something that will keep it down, use shoo goo......the best thing overall especially if you keep the elec's the same. You dont have to worry about your elec's popping off.
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  #5  
Old 04-01-2007, 08:42 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by alfred View Post
Velcro is nice but if you want something that will keep it down, use shoo goo......the best thing overall especially if you keep the elec's the same. You dont have to worry about your elec's popping off.
I was using mounting tape which works good, though I do take stuff off a bit...



Perhaps I will just back it up with something temporary.. :P


Once I got the new motor and get everything sorted I will look to clean it all up and perhaps shoe goo it all.
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Old 04-01-2007, 09:02 PM
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alfred alfred is offline
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Cool, and to let you know that its not hard to solder at all.....just practice a bit and you will get the hang of it.
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  #7  
Old 04-01-2007, 09:56 PM
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Yeah, soldering and airbrushing will be next 2 undertakings. :P
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Old 04-02-2007, 11:54 AM
wrxsti02 wrxsti02 is offline
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sescallier-
For the most part, I completely agree with you. A clean, no aluminum, light RC18 is the way to go. I also agree that DrivenProductions products are top-notch, and the gear cover is a great product that is pretty much required.

However, I would say to stick with the stock metal-shielded bearings. Metal-shielded bearings have less resistance than rubber-sealed ones, and the stock ones are very nice if lubed properly.

Overall, good writeup! Alfred, if you could sticky this so that all the people starting off with the RC18 can go the right way the first time!
-wrxsti02
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Old 04-02-2007, 06:10 PM
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At the top, now if anyone wishes to add there own comments please do so.....this is one of the best so far. Very good job man.
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  #10  
Old 04-02-2007, 08:20 PM
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Thanks, I also found out that the associated quick release bettery strap thumbscrews work on the rc18.


If you swich batteries alot these are way easier to remove than clips.





Obviously they add a teeny bit of weight but are worth it imho.

I have a hard time with the clips.



Quote:
Originally Posted by wrxsti02 View Post
sescallier-
For the most part, I completely agree with you. A clean, no aluminum, light RC18 is the way to go. I also agree that DrivenProductions products are top-notch, and the gear cover is a great product that is pretty much required.

However, I would say to stick with the stock metal-shielded bearings. Metal-shielded bearings have less resistance than rubber-sealed ones, and the stock ones are very nice if lubed properly.

Overall, good writeup! Alfred, if you could sticky this so that all the people starting off with the RC18 can go the right way the first time!
-wrxsti02
I agree, I do however think rubber sealed can be good if you are doing a ton of racing and dont want to have to clean them often.


I do use the basic ones myself, and I do think ceramic ones might be the best...


I know some people talk about them "breaking" but I have seen them in rollerblades, and even with that pressure they hardly ever break...


But for the cost, and little performance upgrade bearings offer, I would not choose to get them.

Last edited by sescallier; 04-02-2007 at 08:24 PM.
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  #11  
Old 04-02-2007, 08:58 PM
wrxsti02 wrxsti02 is offline
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Good tips ... also if you want to have a cheaper alternative to those battery thumbscrews, cut a notch in the battery strap just big enough to slide into the screw. Then put a spring from the dogbones and a washer on the top to make it really tight when you latch it in. After repeated backflips, it never comes off!
-wrxsti02
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  #12  
Old 04-02-2007, 10:10 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by wrxsti02 View Post
Good tips ... also if you want to have a cheaper alternative to those battery thumbscrews, cut a notch in the battery strap just big enough to slide into the screw. Then put a spring from the dogbones and a washer on the top to make it really tight when you latch it in. After repeated backflips, it never comes off!
-wrxsti02
Sweet!
Could you post a pic?
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  #13  
Old 04-02-2007, 11:15 PM
wrxsti02 wrxsti02 is offline
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sescallier-
Unfortunately not as the only camera I could use is my phone, which isn't too good. The mod is relatively simple ... just unscrew the battery-retaining screw (the one with the hole for the body clip) and slice a notch in the battery strap wide just wide enough for the screw. Then, slide the dogbone spring and washer on ... washer on the top and spring under it. Put the screw in until it puts just enough pressure on the battery to hold it in. The battery strap notch should be a little hard to slide in at first, but it should become easier after a little while.

Diagram of battery-retaining setup:

..III <-- screw head
/___\ <-- washer or wing shim (I used a wing shim from a Vendetta)
.~~ <-- dogbone spring
.~~
[___] <-- battery strap post

Hope this helps. Just to add, this may work with the battery strap thumbscrews also ... just don't put the spring in, and use the thumbscrews to put pressure on the slotted side. Then, all you have to do to get the battery out is unscrew one thumbscrew a little.
-wrxsti02

Last edited by wrxsti02; 04-02-2007 at 11:18 PM. Reason: Added detail.
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  #14  
Old 04-10-2007, 12:17 AM
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sescallier sescallier is offline
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Found a good way to tighten servo slop..


http://www.myrcbox.com/rc18t_tighter...vo%20saver.htm
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  #15  
Old 04-10-2007, 07:03 AM
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alfred alfred is offline
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Now thats an easy mod, keep us posted on how it worked for you buddy.
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