12-03-2009, 09:54 PM
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I will look into that tomorrow. Its a bit late to be tearing apart the diff tonight. As promised here is a picture!
Temporary battery from my friends mini-t while I wait for my 7-cell to arrive. Also need to mount the on/off switch. Everythings a VERY tight fit lol.
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Snow
Last edited by silentsnow31802; 12-03-2009 at 09:57 PM.
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12-03-2009, 10:14 PM
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Have you thought about mounting the switch somewhere onto the chassis.....and how are the esc and rx on.....are you using double sided foam tape.
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Xray M18
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540 MRS4
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Last edited by alfred; 12-03-2009 at 10:17 PM.
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12-03-2009, 10:43 PM
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The receiver is zip tied to the upper chassis and the esc is velcroed to the main chassis. I just screwed the switch to the screw right under that one in the picture. One of the ones that holds the upper chassis on. I was about to mount it in that same place as that picture actually but if i did that I would have to find hardware for it so I just went with what was already there.
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12-03-2009, 10:55 PM
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Well i have tried velcro to hold down batteries and find that when i crashed lol the battery would some how fly from the side and drag on the cement......same thing happened at the track with my esc......took a hit to the side and the esc in my M18 was jumping around in the body. If you want something with a stronger hold then try some shoo goo...a dime size will have your electronics stay put. But if you try this just make sure that you like the electronics where they are and dont forget to let it set for 30 minutes. Another tip is to not connect any wires til after the 30 minute setting mark so this way the electronics dont shift.
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12-03-2009, 11:03 PM
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I might try that later down the road. At the moment I want the electronics to be movable just in case I want to move them for whatever reason. I do have to mess with pinion sizes and things still so I would have to remove the esc for that. Its so crammed in there that I have to remove the esc to remove the motor. Im kinda worried about the wires coming out of the esc that go to the receiver and the switch, theyre pretty smashed aginst the steering servo. Now that I think about it I bet some aftermarket servo mounts would give me a little more clearance there being that the plastic doesnt wrap around the back of it with the aftermarket ones.
EDIT: Holy crap my plactic thing is on backwards!! I just noticed that when I compared my pic to the one you posted.... Whoops lol.
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Snow
Last edited by silentsnow31802; 12-03-2009 at 11:13 PM.
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12-04-2009, 08:07 AM
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Hey at least you found that out now.....that pic is of mine. Loved it.
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12-04-2009, 09:00 AM
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He was probably looking at the pics from the Profile Shot thread. Micro shocks too me tend to spill out at the top when compressed. I put mine upside down so when it compresses the oil doesnt leak....instead the seals are facing down. If you do a search it will all be explained.
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12-04-2009, 11:26 AM
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It actually came like that, I just never bothered to flip them right side up. Im not worried about unsprung weight because i dont race, becides im sure thats not enough weight for me to noice, like you said in the case of lowering the CG its a very small amount of weight.
I heard a lot of things about mini shocks leaking and putting them up side down keeps them from doing so, that is another reason why I havent bothered flipping them back over. I would rather them not leak and have a little more unsprung weight.
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12-04-2009, 11:54 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by RERacing
As far as leakage, the only affect it would have would be seepage at rest (gavity based). Otherwise, as I said before - a leaking shock is a leaking shock, regardless of whether it's upside down or not. Shock articulation will still make it leak.
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Touche sir! lol. I think you may have convinced me to spend the time to flip them upright again. Ill do that right now as im messing with the rear diff.
I also see there is a setting on my esc for a voltage cutoff at 4 volts for nimh batteries. Should I turn that on just for safety do you think?
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Snow
Last edited by silentsnow31802; 12-04-2009 at 11:57 AM.
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12-04-2009, 01:08 PM
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I do have aftermarket diffs, not sure who makes them though since they came with it when I bought it. They do use a nut on the end. I just put some loctite in the nut and im in the process of re-assembling it. Having a hard time though, the screw isnt going all the way through the diff for some reason.
EDIT: Okay what the hell is the point of that plastic piece? In the exploded view it goes on the outside of all the hardware.... I dont think thats right... It sure dont seem right.
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Snow
Last edited by silentsnow31802; 12-04-2009 at 01:18 PM.
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12-04-2009, 02:00 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by RERacing
can't tell for sure without PIX
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lol good point. I already have it back together though.
http://www.myrcbox.com/pdf/rc18t/drawing_18t.pdf
Its the diff piece in there at the right side of the diff screw. Part# 21027.
Also was smart enough to drop the main diff gear on the floor and half the balls popped out. I found all but one. Guess im going to have to order some diff balls soon.
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12-04-2009, 03:56 PM
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I do but it still uses that same hardware. I am still running dogbones. I believe its the factory team setup. Oh okay, ill put it together like that. I wont run the truck until I get some new diff balls though. Hopefully the lhs has some.
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12-04-2009, 06:19 PM
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Dont know about you guys but my Rc18t handled nicely.....the only thing that gave me problems was the weak servo.
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12-04-2009, 06:29 PM
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My Xray M18t......and why is that you like to argue man. I know that you think that you like to know it all when it comes to rc.....or is that you must be lonely and have a need to vent or take out your frustrations out on other members.....i dont see you winning trophies.....lmao. When you make the cover of an rc mag come back to the board.
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12-04-2009, 06:35 PM
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Go pester some other forum.....i have gotten way too many complaints about you.
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Xray M18
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Spektrumized
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