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  #31  
Old 03-25-2005, 10:43 PM
lockmouth lockmouth is offline
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I really haven't been jumping alot ( i like speed runs). The truck handles goods but I'm going back to my 3 cell Li-Po cause the 8 cell pack dosen't put out the power I'm use to. I'll put this pack in my other RC18-T. I just love have two of these trucks Man Li-Po is the way to go if you want speed. This is my first time useing Gp 1100 and they just don't get the gob done for me.

Would a 8 cell GP 1100 match pack give more power or just more run time. Will someone explain the match and unmatch difference.
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  #32  
Old 03-25-2005, 10:52 PM
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Oh O.K. should have known that considering the 8cell pack!

Yeah I would'nt mind getting another 18T!

I think match packs give more power! Not sure about runtime though? And I believe the life span of the pack is shorter than a standard pack?
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  #33  
Old 03-25-2005, 11:21 PM
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Matched---voltage enhanced or zapped and paired with another cell with the same output voltage and discharge rate. On each matched cell you will see a label providing you with the seconds-this is the amount of voltage a cell was able to deliver the closer the other cells number the better the pack.
Average voltage will determine the amount of voltage a cell will be able to produce during a run.
Charge rate-this determines how quickly the batteries were charged during the matching process etc..etc.. i can go on and on man if you want me too....

Unmatched cells are basically loose cells put together, they have not been matched or zapped at all....


Im so glad i started this thread....so far i have seen some wicked 18ts on here....And Mondo i like that chassis man....can i have it..lol just joking Mr. Moderator. So how do you like it....

And lockmouth love the red ball cups man.....outstanding and one of a kind....your really taking the 18t too its limits...
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  #34  
Old 03-26-2005, 12:39 AM
lockmouth lockmouth is offline
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Alfred when I got my FT kit I said I was going to wait till I had every thing I need to totally trick it out. I't was will worth the wait. Far as the wheel and ballcups go I dyed them orange to kinda blend in with the body. I'll be doing another project as soon as the Buggy body are ready over on 1/18th.com

Alfred why want you go brushless. Man it is so much fun. I want to go with GP 1100 in my RC18-T (s) but I'm dropping the Li-Po back in. GP 1100 are like grandmother in the fastlane compare to Li-Po, they just don't put out the power. They are probally better for racing ,but for bashing Li-Po is the way to go.
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  #35  
Old 03-26-2005, 12:53 AM
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I used to have the Mamba 8000kv, but it was a cogger man...no matter what i did it would still cogg and i didnt like that especially for the price one pays to go BL. I will get another bl someday just dont want to go through that all over again thats all....

Sorry man i thought it was red, forgot to look at them again when i replied to the post......Get some matched GP's man they will make a difference when compared to lose cells.
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  #36  
Old 03-26-2005, 01:47 AM
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ok,,ok,, i have been forced to do this,, wish yall wouldnt make me do it,, but

close you eyes and begin clicking,, what you will see is not fake but real,,
enjoy
pics

pics2

video


i do need to take better pics,, but ohwell im at work now,,
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  #37  
Old 03-26-2005, 02:11 AM
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Lockmouth, your truck looks awesome!!! I like the color coordination with the black and orange.
Where did you get the RPM ball ends?
will they fit the AE Titanium turnbuckles?


Alfred, I have the 8000 brushless in my truck and have no coging problems, But I did with my 6800 I wonder what's up with that?
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  #38  
Old 03-26-2005, 02:20 AM
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Here's some more photo's of my truck...




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  #39  
Old 03-26-2005, 07:13 AM
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Deves the rod ends are made by RPM, they come white an I just dyed them orange. They are to big to fit the FT titanium buckles. Man your truck is off the chain. Everyone is rocking the blue put you went with the silver (very nice)

I see that there are some tricked out RC18-T out there. Alfred this is a great thread you started.

I wish someone like penquin would make a CF chassis for this awesome truck.
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  #40  
Old 03-26-2005, 09:48 AM
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Deves,
nice photo shots of your ride!
glad to see someone is actually using their "macro" option on the digital camera to get the nice details (like you have on yours)

I noticed you're using an 85MG servo. Are you using a servo saver on this setup? pics of this detail would be nice.
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  #41  
Old 03-26-2005, 01:29 PM
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Wow Deves that truck is kick ass!

You did a very good job of putting that truck together. Everything looks perfect.
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  #42  
Old 03-26-2005, 03:19 PM
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Deve's hope there's no hard feelings man.....love your 18t man




I know there has to be more members with 18t's i love seeing members stock and hopped up 18t's......Please post more pics....
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  #43  
Old 03-26-2005, 09:54 PM
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Quote:
Originally posted by alfred
Deve's hope there's no hard feelings man.....love your 18t man
I know there has to be more members with 18t's i love seeing members stock and hopped up 18t's......Please post more pics....


Alfred no worries dude! After talking with you and researching more and more I knew I had to have one these but I wasn't impressed too much with blue Then I see parts in silver and well the rest is history.. LOL Now I see parts are coming out in red...HHHMMMMMM J/K
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  #44  
Old 03-26-2005, 09:58 PM
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Homer, This one's for you....

I used the aluminum steering bar from GPM and a plastic servo arm for Hitec off the HPI servo saver parts tree.
Don't need no stinkin servo saver with metal gears LOL


Last edited by Deves; 03-26-2005 at 10:01 PM.
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  #45  
Old 03-26-2005, 11:39 PM
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Thanks for the detailed photo.
looks very clean and organized, your layout.

how long have you been running the 81MG on this w/o the saver?
and no problems with any slop/play on the servo the way you have it setup?

I ask because there have been complaints (by other users - I have not experienced this myself), the top gear on the metal gear version has a plastic insert shim that fits into the beveled shaft of the servo. The problem is the shaft is connected to the servos centering mechanism underneath. This plastic portion strips/elongates very easily with use. Thus with that play on the top end, the servo cant re-center correctly.
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