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  #61  
Old 01-12-2009, 10:37 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 2big2small View Post
well i just finished putting in my Blue Bird BMS-385DMAX after a long two weeks of trial and error, but i was able to get it in and after running it, it is a very strong and fast servo. If anyone would like more details let me know
If you can post up a few photos that would be appreciated!
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  #62  
Old 01-12-2009, 09:13 PM
2big2small 2big2small is offline
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Sorry for the bad pics, and messy car, its been a long two weeks getting the servo in and havent have to time to clean it up.
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  #63  
Old 01-13-2009, 05:13 PM
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thanks for posting the photos.

I was curious to see how that servo looks and fit. Since I had never heard of it before.
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  #64  
Old 01-13-2009, 08:03 PM
2big2small 2big2small is offline
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yeah and its also probably the strong micro servo out putting out 62 oz at .13 sec
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  #65  
Old 01-14-2009, 09:27 PM
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On one of the first days of finals week (early December) the 3S LiPo I ordered from Hobbycity arrived. That night, after a light rain had melted the remaining snow off the street and my "test track" was empty, I strapped it in and headed on out. I figured that might be the only chance to drive the car before the next snow, and in a way, I was right. I had just completed a tear down and rebuild and needed to drive, irregardless of that fact that there was still a bit of salt still on University street. Of course, my roommate also wanted to come see since I had promised him a near 60mph top speed. I made the mistake of handing him the controller after I made a few passes without turning down the endpoints when he asked to give it a spin. I figured a quick "the throttle is proportional, you don't have to squeeze it all the way" was enough, and given that there was little traction, he couldnt've hit anything over 20. Bad move, I know. He broadsided a curb almost immediately, and the car wouldn't move. A quick assessment revealed a broken front hinge pin mount, broken rear hub, three blown bearings, and a broken CVD. Not a cheap crash. I postponed ordering replacement parts as I didn't have enough in my Paypal and was too busy studying for the rest of the week. By the time I sold a few items and had cash, the bearing kit and rear hub kit were discontinued and no longer available on Horizon Hobby or eBay.

So that's my excuse for completely abandoning this thread. Sorry guys. So right now I'm trying to figure out how to get the parts I need without resorting to buying a complete roller.

But great photos and info, you two. I was about to ask for install pictures but I see they're already posted. Glad to see you're trying out some servos and writing down your results. I would think that a 1/10th servo, while it would certainly get the job done, would be way to heavy and offset the balance of the car, especially with a smaller LiPo on the left side.

I spend the last hour or so installing LED fog and tail lights. This is the second car in three days I've outfitted, and I'm addicted now. I'll have pictures and info up in a bit. I spend my early afternoons driving my 18th's in the Park gym down the street, my evenings at Radio Shack, and my nights in the basement armed with a Weller 40 watt.





Clean install, no?


*Quick "on the hunt for parts" edit*: Take a look at the Horizon Hobby product page for the Recoil. It's now listed as "in stock" and not "discontinued." I wonder what this means?
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Last edited by kavvika; 01-15-2009 at 12:45 AM.
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  #66  
Old 01-15-2009, 10:47 AM
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Welcome back Kav !

I was starting to wonder where the heck you went. Sucks about the curb however. Last time I gave control to my savage to my gf, she stuck it under a parked car on the street. So its a good thing I stick to carpet courses. Its just walls and pillars we have to avoid.. LOL.

Clean install. Yes I think so. I think I like the tail lights more then the fog lamps.

I still have to sticker up my recoil bodies ...
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  #67  
Old 01-15-2009, 12:13 PM
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Glad ya like it! I figured if my Recoil wasn't going to be going anywhere anytime soon, I might as well make it look good standing still. My dad and I did some calculations, and a set of four amber and/or red LED's, each with a vf of 1.8-2.2 would run perfectly wired in serial on a standard 9v battery, a separate mini 2S Lipo, or even the 2S I would use to run the car. Right now I'm using a 9v battery, but I'm placing an order for a ~$4.50 2S 360mAh LiPo from HobbyCity soon, which will weight a mere 20 grams. I wanted to wire up some white high-brightness JELED's for headlights, but didn't want to mess with resistors for my second install. The fog lamps are the two clear domed, yellow LED's found in the "Assorted LED's" package from Radio Shack, and held in with their "Snap-In Panel-Mount LED Holders" I was scared to drill a 1/4" hole in the shell, but it turned out pretty well. They're almost unnoticable when turned off, which I like. Both the fog and tail lights are installed where the surface is flat, which is somewhat rare with lexan bodies. I wasn't sure which of the two locations I wanted to install the tail lights, but my choice was made for me when I realized the outer spot was on the curved part of the shell and wouldn't sit flush. The tail lights are the flat "Red LED with Holder" which is a 3mm LED in a 6mm red plastic lens that resembles a rear tail light. I snipped off the resistor which left the bare LED. The foam bumper required a bit of trimming on the corners to clear the fogs, but it'll still protect the chassis in an impact. This was the second body I wired up, on Monday night I installed 3mm fogs, tail lights, and then stuck sponsor decals on Projekt RC18corR. I used some black wire I found this time for a cleaner look. Now, which body should I illuminate next...

I always wonder two things when I lend out controller. First, why am I doing this? I've never once lent out a TX and had a car returned to me in the same condition it was before. I don't believe anyone's ever not broken a part. Then second, who pays for it? My roommate's crash was the most expensive, at over $35. I decided to foot the bill, but he's never again allowed to drive my cars (this isn't the first time he's crashed one of my R/C's). Should I let that ruin it for others? I try to be nice and get others into R/C, but I'm not about to ask them for money to repair it, and I'm seriously sick of having so many shelved cars due to an "oops." First it was a Rustler, then the Recoil, and now my Pro-Pulse. And for the latter two, parts support is now nearly nonexistant apart for buying another complete roller.
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Last edited by kavvika; 01-15-2009 at 12:32 PM.
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  #68  
Old 01-15-2009, 03:45 PM
2big2small 2big2small is offline
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sorry to hear about your Recoil kavvika. im also thinking about shelving my recoil, seems like im putting to much money in it for nothing. Since i brought the regular one used for 170 then a 50 servo and now i need a new battery. But im think about switch to lipo. Do you know of any good lipos, and also chargers/balancers?
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  #69  
Old 01-15-2009, 04:20 PM
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The switch to LiPo is a good move before you start to sink your hard earned money on NiMh packs. For starters, you NEED a quality charger and balancer. My favorite charger is the Duratrax Onyx 230. Fully programmable, features 10 battery memory, and can charge nearly every chemistry, so you'll be future-proofed. Plus you won't need to invest in and lug around a power supply. It is a little pricey at $80, but you could search around and find one used (I managed to talk one seller down to $40, used once, no idea how I did that). Then you'll need a balancer, and I've heard rave reviews about the Astroflight Blinky. I don't have one yet, as I balance my 2S pack but removing the tap and charging each cell individually, and my 3S is still in perfect balance. But I'll be ordering one by the end of the week. For LiPo's, get a capacity around 1500mAh, and make sure it's 20C. I love shopping at HobbyCity.com for them, You can get a 2S pack for around 15 shipped and a 3S for under $20. No sense in paying three times that for a LiPo that's no better. Check out the Rhino packs, I'm happy with mine (aside from nearly killing my first pack with a cheap charger, but I think it's revived now). You can't beat charging times of an hour max and multiple runs back to back. As long as you practice safe charging habits, you'll be fine.

Edit: I nearly forgot a very important point. It sounds like you have a RTR-spec Recoil and are running with the stock electronics. In that case, the ESC does not have a LVC, which is mandatory when running LiPo's. Otherwise, you could accidentally discharge the pack too low and kill it. Solder in a Novak Smart-stop or the like to prevent this from happening.
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Last edited by kavvika; 01-15-2009 at 09:37 PM.
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  #70  
Old 01-15-2009, 09:20 PM
2big2small 2big2small is offline
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oh ok i'll probably get that rhino lipo u was talking about. Im also thinking about getting this charger from them. It does everything from charging, balance, and discharging.

http://www.hobbycity.com/hobbycity/s...cer/discharger
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  #71  
Old 01-23-2009, 01:34 AM
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Nerve, since you mentioned you're a fan of the tails, I rigged something up for ya on one of my last days home:


But personally, I'm a fan of headlights and fogs:


Hope it's somewhat related, since the second shell is a beater Mazda 6, which I rigged up to test the concept before I messed with the Recoil shell. Eventually, the body will have three series circuits all wired in parallel to a mini 2S LiPo. Four tails on one, and then two headlights and a fog on each of the front circuits. I'll leave the headlight area clear and make brackets since the Recoil bodies don't come with light buckets.

Now time for some good news. I CA'ed the rear carrier back together, and it seems to be holding. Tonight I purchased a CVD set and 3 sets of 2 6x10 bearings (one set for spares) from MyAtomic and Hong Kong, respectively. I took care of the tab to avoid any tension. Hopefully, I'll have this car back together in two weeks! Then I'll bolt up the re-glued stock rubbers and hit the gym with it. Yes, I'm back at school now, and since I can't keep busy with a soldering iron I made it my goal to get my garage back together.
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  #72  
Old 03-12-2009, 06:48 PM
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Recoil

Quote:
Originally Posted by kavvika View Post
Nerve, since you mentioned you're a fan of the tails, I rigged something up for ya on one of my last days home:


But personally, I'm a fan of headlights and fogs:


Hope it's somewhat related, since the second shell is a beater Mazda 6, which I rigged up to test the concept before I messed with the Recoil shell. Eventually, the body will have three series circuits all wired in parallel to a mini 2S LiPo. Four tails on one, and then two headlights and a fog on each of the front circuits. I'll leave the headlight area clear and make brackets since the Recoil bodies don't come with light buckets.

Now time for some good news. I CA'ed the rear carrier back together, and it seems to be holding. Tonight I purchased a CVD set and 3 sets of 2 6x10 bearings (one set for spares) from MyAtomic and Hong Kong, respectively. I took care of the tab to avoid any tension. Hopefully, I'll have this car back together in two weeks! Then I'll bolt up the re-glued stock rubbers and hit the gym with it. Yes, I'm back at school now, and since I can't keep busy with a soldering iron I made it my goal to get my garage back together.

kavvika I am new to the recoil, enjoyed your thread. Lots of info. IO was wondering how your recoil performed after the shock changes. And what you think of this setup. i currently run the spashett edition with a mamba 8000kb brushless motor. 40 shore foam tires and a 16tooth pinion. 3s Cell Lipo I have a couple of problems with this car. For one, it spins out a lot. I run the car on a medium traction asphalt track. I would like your input or anyones for that matter on the following questions.


Pinion should I gear up so that it takes off faster. Currently top end is very fast but bottom end is slow. But yet if i gut it tends to sway or run circles, so I have to have it straight before i punch it. Honestly not sure if this has anything to do with it.


tires.. for a low traction track, would 35shore foams work better?

Shocks ? I see that you state front Gold and Rear Blue for concrete asphalt? How does that run for you. ALso what oil weight are you using on that.

Thank you very much for your responses. Im just having a hell of a time with this car. I really want to make it work, but since its discontinued its hard to find help. By the way I have only had it for about 2 months now.
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  #73  
Old 03-12-2009, 11:20 PM
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Thanks for the kind words rc40mar.

I can't believe it's been over a month since I last posted here. I've been meaning to add part 3, but school took priority this past month and my Recoil is in more pieces that it was before. Long story for another time, but I only had the chance to drive it a handful of times before a radio glitch caused the car to plow full throttle into a car tire.

I'm no racer, but I felt the car could put the power down alot better after installing the cut Associated springs. Around the same time I swapped out the spring I swapped the 3 degree rear hingepin mount for the 2 degree, which in theory should make the car more squirrelly. I wanted more speed from less tire scrub, and it pulled the wheels further pack to match the cut-outs in the body shell better. It's possible I simply because used to the cars handling characteristics, but after the change I thought it felt more planted and didn't lose traction as much. This could also be attributed to the chassis which I believe to have been tweaked. If i pushed down on one rear body mount, the suspension would squish, but if I pushed down on the other, the opposite front tire would lift off the ground. The firmer spring kept the chassis more level which prevented one tire from spinning in the air in turns. Either way, I'm now used to the power and handling traits with a 3S strapped in, and I feel it handles great considering mine hits speeds three times that of a stock Recoil, which the chassis is certainly not made for.

Oil on mine is stock, and the shocks definitely need to be topped-off. Try playing around with 30 to 40 wt. oil. Recently over in the RCTech thread, a few guys have been discussing replacing the stock pistons and shafts with RC18R parts as the pistons fit tighter and actually "work," as opposed to letting the oil flow around the loose tolerances. Since I need a new shaft and lower shock eyelet I might give this mod a shot next when time and money allow.

Gearing with a lower tooth count pinion will give the car more punch but a lower top speed. Try tightening the front diff. to let the front of the car pull itself out of corners on power and switching to a lower shore tire for more traction. The less traction you have, the lower shore the tire needs to be to grip. Bleach and Simple Green are both great traction additives for foam tires, but be careful with the former. I've heard WD-40 works well for rubber tires.

I'll be the first to admit that to have a perfectly set-up Spashett Recoil it does cost quite a bit on top of the roller, but I can't remember the last time I had this much fun tearing up the streets. Sportwerks made a huge mistake discontinuing the Recoil the first time, but at least the they still offer parts support and rollers are cheap on eBay. Last time I drove mine it drew a small crowd and some pretty awesome comments. The lights were a big hit at night, too.

Hope I answered all your questions!

Edit: I have some time before The Office finishes downloading, so I'll let my shopping list do the talking. No pictures, but you can infer how bad the crash was:

New lower chassis, new body, new shock shaft, new shock eyelet, new front shock tower, new set of foam tires, new suspension arm, New front body mount...then I need to reshrink my ESC and rig up the light kit with new LED's.

I'm probably better off buying a new roller and salvaging the parts I can...

And to make up for disappearing for a month again, here's the 102mph Recoil video by the same guys that were the first to hit 75mph with a nearly-stock Rustler VXL. Wicked fast; the video is my inspiration for getting my Recoil up-and-running again soon.
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Last edited by kavvika; 03-12-2009 at 11:46 PM.
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  #74  
Old 03-21-2009, 01:26 AM
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Just picked up a pro edition at hobbytown on clearance. I ran the car with an Insane losi motor for a bit, till I picked up a MMP, and used the 3200kv from my heli. Running a 3s lipo, its faster than I can handle right now, but I'm getting used to it.

I would think this car would sell really well, its not too small, but its not as big as a 1/10th. the power of the brushless does make it spin in the corners, but I've found practice(and some practice, with some more practice afterward), softening the rear springs(just the stocks), and tightening the front diff helps. Looking to get some 45shore foams to help with this some, and to help with the wear of the stock tires.

I'm thinking about getting another brushless motor, looking at that HXT 2435 you (kavvika) recommended in the first post. Love the fact that its only 16 bucks, but what kind of quality is it? Any one have any experience with it? Do you like those AON's, kavvika?

Man I really wish losi or another big horizon brand brings this car out, then maybe it will get popular. I have a local carpet oval/road coarse track that I go practice on, but can't run in a class. Would love to be able to, if I have enough time with college to race....
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Last edited by aero528; 03-21-2009 at 01:33 AM.
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  #75  
Old 05-03-2009, 07:39 AM
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i dont know wether you guys know but over here in the UK the car is still going really well with loads of bits for spares on ebay , also i think some one else has now taken over the car as we have no problem getting the carisma GT14 which is the same car hope it helps some one out in a search for spares
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