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  #46  
Old 11-21-2008, 10:28 PM
NTK NTK is offline
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mounts

i got it to fit using the offset mounts center hole, you have to use some pressure to get the tabs in the bottom of those mounts to go in the holes
in the lower chasis. i forgot to buy a rc18 srevo saver, so i'm kinda screwed
until tomorrow. oh buy the way, i sure am glad i already had the hardware bag
(swk6052) the screws you will need to mount this servo to the servo mounts are in that bag. it's becoming obvious to me that horizon set this thing up to
use jr servos. i also have to pick up some motor mount screws, the ones that came with the kit do not fit the novak motor. it's a real drag when you think you've got everything all set, and then little stuff like this puts everything on hold. this car is my only mini (except for my mini infreno 09), so i don't have a whole lot of tiny screws laying around. oh well, nature of the beast.
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  #47  
Old 11-24-2008, 10:22 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by NTK View Post
kav, you were right about finding a cheap rolling chasis on e-bay!

http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll...EOIBSA:US:1123

i just got this for $56 plus $10 for shippng. now i have a spare. went servo shopping today. my wonderful lhs didn't have any s9602's in stock and
i am itchin to drive this thing so i bought an hs-65mg (it was either that or the jrds285, and the jr only pulls like 18oz-in.) i'll see how this hitec servo does, and order an s9602 in the meantime. well i'm gonna get building, i'll post again later.

Congrats on finding a deal on Ebay!

I agree, the Jr285 doesnt pull a whole lot, but it if does alright on our tight twisty track then I should be ok. Downside is, I have two of them only to find out it is a noisy servo from new (figured the motor was screwed on old one that came w/ chassis).

In time I will update to see what I find out about it.
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  #48  
Old 11-24-2008, 02:53 PM
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servo

nerve,
i probably should've went with the 285 at least as a temp. servo, i probably could've dropped it right in. i had to go out and get the rc18 servo saver (which doesn't look like it will work as well as the stock recoil one because it just uses a plastic spacer instead of a spring. i found a spare shock o-ring to put on this spacer for added tension.). now i also find out that the hitec screw is too short to go through the saver and into the servo. i read that on this thread, but i was thinking that a servo screw would be a pretty standard size and that i would find something laying around that would work. not true, it seems that it is a rare screw that has the length to get through that saver, and the right threads for that servo. i actually had to order 1 screw. well...i should say i ordered 6 screws, but all i need is one. the bummer is that its gonna be a week and i'm stuck until then. i gave the body to a guy i know who runs a company called "gotham graphics" to be painted, it's gonna take about 2 weeks, but i'll post pics. when i get it back. it's gonna look really sweet (carbon fiber hood and spoiler, black and yellow main body, really cool looking head and tail lights... all paint, no stickers.) i can use the body from that roller i got on e-bay in the meantime. speaking of which... i'm gonna put a mamba system and a 285 in that one and see how much faster i can build one with that set up. thanks for posting nerve, i'll keep you guys updated on my build(s) if you wanna check this thread every once in a while.
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  #49  
Old 11-24-2008, 03:50 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by NTK View Post
nerve,
i probably should've went with the 285 at least as a temp. servo, i probably could've dropped it right in.
Yeppers, the 285mg drops in using the two 90* mounts.

Quote:
Originally Posted by NTK View Post
i gave the body to a guy i know who runs a company called "gotham graphics" to be painted, it's gonna take about 2 weeks, but i'll post pics. when i get it back. it's gonna look really sweet (carbon fiber hood and spoiler, black and yellow main body, really cool looking head and tail lights... all paint, no stickers.) i can use the body from that roller i got on e-bay in the meantime. speaking of which... i'm gonna put a mamba system and a 285 in that one and see how much faster i can build one with that set up. thanks for posting nerve, i'll keep you guys updated on my build(s) if you wanna check this thread every once in a while.
Cool! Can't wait to see that body when its done. Then you will have to send it to me .. hehe.

Mamba system? As in Mamba max...? or do you mean the Sidewinder / Micro Pros? (which is the same thing)

We always like updates, I update from time to time as you have probably seen.
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  #50  
Old 11-26-2008, 04:02 PM
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Guys, I have no idea what I've gotten myself into. Let me run through the motor lot:

2 are the standard 2mm shaft AON4900 car motors. 24x33, with closed endbells. Both used, but in great condition.

2 are a 1/8" shaft 24x33 motor, but have holes in the endbells. The pitch they make at full throttle (no pinion gear) is a half an octave above the 4900. I have no idea what I bough, but these motors are monsters! It's possible the kv rating is above 6,000, going by ear. I've never heard of or seen this motor before, and can't do any research now that the AON site is gone. Both appear to be new, and the bearings are smoooooth. Can't wait to find a 1/8" shaft 22T pinion and see what these'll do with with the 3S LiPo that arrived two days ago.

Then theres the 4 heli motors. kv seems to be around 3,500. 28x35 can. Doubt I can use them in a car, so I'll sell them. The heatsinked one is new, as is one of the non-heatsinked motors. Two have shot bearings, but endbells can be removed with 3 screws for easy replacement.

I'm really busy today and the rest of the week, so I can't post much. I plan on taking better pictures of the motors this weekend.

Almost forgot: I'll be sending in the Mamba-25 with a check for $40 this weekend and soon I'll have a new MMP to test out!
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Last edited by kavvika; 11-26-2008 at 04:45 PM.
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  #51  
Old 12-01-2008, 01:39 PM
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Well, I got back from one hell of a Thanksgiving break late last night. I accomplished little of what I had planned to do (mail out the damaged ESC, bring back the motor lot), and did so many things I never though I'd end up doing. But at least there were a few packages waiting for me in the mailbox. My Recoil "care" package was one of them. 3 spurs, a package of hinge pin mounts, the chassis support bag which included a heatsink, and a set of 45 shore foams. Of course, it ended up snowing a few inches last night, so outdoor driving season is officially over. The car is ready to run now, but the brick of a 3S LiPo is probably too much for indoor driving. The thick, doubled-up rubber band seems to hold it in fine. I put a 22T pinion back on so the ESC doesn't have to work too hard. Of all the weeks to have a 60mph car ready to drive, it has to be this one. I really don't need to be distracted from my 12 page paper and presentation due Wednesday, or my 6 pager due next Monday. At least I only have 6 more days of classes, then a few days off for finals study days.

Just a tip, the set of foams come with two different widths. The skinnier two go on the front, and the wider pair goes on the rear. It took me a minute to figure out why the tires were rubbing the front hubs.

In other news, Exotek just announced their R14 conversion for the Associated RC18R. It's a completely custom chassis with driveshaft and shock towers that converts the larger-than-18th-scale RC18R into a full-fledged 1/14th scale TC. It's to be topped with the Recoil body and uses RC18R foams trimmed 2mm or so on the outside to prevent rubbing. Looks trick, but for $150 I'll just pick up another Recoil Pro. I won't have to deal with weak diffs or buying a complete set of CVD's. Although, it might be an attractive option for those who already have a decked-out RC18R. With the right tires and scale Carisma body, it could be a great start for a Rally project.
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Last edited by kavvika; 12-01-2008 at 01:44 PM.
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  #52  
Old 12-02-2008, 09:36 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by kavvika View Post
In other news, Exotek just announced their R14 conversion for the Associated RC18R. It's a completely custom chassis with driveshaft and shock towers that converts the larger-than-18th-scale RC18R into a full-fledged 1/14th scale TC. It's to be topped with the Recoil body and uses RC18R foams trimmed 2mm or so on the outside to prevent rubbing. Looks trick, but for $150 I'll just pick up another Recoil Pro. I won't have to deal with weak diffs or buying a complete set of CVD's. Although, it might be an attractive option for those who already have a decked-out RC18R. With the right tires and scale Carisma body, it could be a great start for a Rally project.
Hmmm, so I wonder how many parts from the 18R are used w/ the Exotek kit? It would be almost a shame to buy an 18R kit only to tear it down to transform it into something different. If someone doesn't own an 18R first of course.

Looks interesting tho. Thanks for the info!


EDIT: OK ... does anyone else experience 50%cpu and using upwards of 250-500mb of ram usage when visiting Exoteks webpage..?????

My work computer is basically brought to a standstill when loading that main webpage w/ all the different chassis designs. If im not mistaken, is that webpage geared to Firefox.??
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Last edited by Nerve; 12-02-2008 at 09:42 AM.
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  #53  
Old 12-29-2008, 09:43 AM
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Ok, wanted to add in a bit more tech information into your thread Kav.

Install tips for HS-65MG Servo into the Recoil.

NOTE: Keep in mind, this is what I did to get it to work. Someone else might have other ideas, but this is what I came up with and it appears to be ok.

I do have photos, but they are on my home computer (im at work) so I will update my posting later on tonight.

1) Install both 90 degree servo mounts onto the chassis prior to servo install
2) Widen the centre mounting hole on the HS65 to about 7/64th (using a Dremel) to allow easier access to the servo mount screw holes. Use a small head, coarse threaded screw to hold the servo to mounts.
3) If you haven't already, contact Hitec and get them to snail mail you out some M2.3 x 8mm screws to work with the HS65
4) Install above screw to use with the Associated #21049 servo saver set.
5) Adjust and setup horn and linkages as required. NOTE: You will have to relocate the silver ball pivots on those two arms on the steering linkage to avoid the tie rods hitting the servo saver
6) Remove the small silver ball pivot from the servo horn side of the small Recoil servo linkage
7) Shorten (dremel cut) a copper servo bushing (the ones that come w/ servos in the package) to fit the same height as the small Recoil ball end
8) Since the #21049 kit uses a larger sized screw, use a self tapping coarse thread screw (with a small non threaded section below head) and insert that into the copper bushing and then into the servo horn and screw it down.
9) Test out the servo for clearances etc

I found that there was a bit of play, so as a temp fix I took some green "painters" tape and wrapped it around the sleeve of the bushing as well as the non threaded section of the screw. It isn't the greatest, but it did the trick in taking up some slack in the steering. I will probably change it over to Shoe-Goo glue later on for a more permanent fix.

If anyone has any input or alternate ideas, feel free to post.

Otherwise, hope it helps.
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  #54  
Old 12-29-2008, 10:20 PM
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Ok, so as an update on what I did last night and above, I have now just done a complete 360 on using a servo saver.

I got my gf's car up and running around (banging around the kitchen) and eventually the servo saver screw worked itself loose. Now I know I could have used thread locker, but even so it seems like the saver was just way too lose for my liking. I prefer the stock setup w/ the JR285mg currently installed in my car.

So I grabbed one of the servo horns from the HS65 package, dremel cut it down so it fits under the swing arms and now im running no servo saver... LOL.

Now the car actually steers like it means it and it isn't as limp as it was before. I just hope the gf doesn't crash into too many things.



Photos as promised:

You can see I removed the small pivot and put some tape around the reduced size brass washer and some tape around the screw



Install photo..


Another trial fit photo



Hard to find a good enough angle to snap a photo with.
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  #55  
Old 01-02-2009, 04:00 PM
2big2small 2big2small is offline
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can someone tell me where i can get a left straight mount and right offset mount because im trying to mount a bluebird 385dmax servo to my Recoil. thanks
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  #56  
Old 01-02-2009, 04:35 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 2big2small View Post
can someone tell me where i can get a left straight mount and right offset mount because im trying to mount a bluebird 385dmax servo to my Recoil. thanks
http://www.sportwerksrc.com/Products...ProdID=SWK6032

http://www.sportwerksrc.com/Search/D...CatID=C&Page=1

It is probably the easiest way to get the parts you need, directly from your LHS or of course an online source.

I have both as spares, but as much as I would say I would ship them out to you, I want them in case I might need them for a servo change throughout the race season (never know).
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  #57  
Old 01-02-2009, 04:43 PM
2big2small 2big2small is offline
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and i guessing it comes with a left straight mount and right offset mount(offset is the stock one, and the straight one is the one with only two holes
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  #58  
Old 01-05-2009, 07:55 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 2big2small View Post
and i guessing it comes with a left straight mount and right offset mount(offset is the stock one, and the straight one is the one with only two holes
Well, according to the photo there is one straight mount and two 90 degree mounts. I have never ordered in that package, but I would imagine it would come with what is shown.

Yes, the straight one is on the left most of the photo and the 2 90's are shown slightly to the right/centre of the photo.
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  #59  
Old 01-05-2009, 04:23 PM
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As an update for a servo that fits into the Recoil...

Spektrum 590m (or the JR Z590m). Fitment confirmed by a local onroad club member. It does take some work and dremelling to get it to fit, but it does apparently.

Reason is, he suggested I upgrade to a larger sized servo. He thought the 285mg was too small and wouldnt hold up to racing abuse. But will it?
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  #60  
Old 01-11-2009, 05:07 PM
2big2small 2big2small is offline
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well i just finished putting in my Blue Bird BMS-385DMAX after a long two weeks of trial and error, but i was able to get it in and after running it, it is a very strong and fast servo. If anyone would like more details let me know
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