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  #1  
Old 10-05-2006, 09:16 AM
setecastronomy setecastronomy is offline
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Doubts on RockBuster

I received my RockBuster a few day ago and I'm still assembling it.

I would need some advice on the following points:

1) Using the ball differential terminology, rear and front gear differential are too loose. If you drive in a very

rough terrain the truck becomes a 4x2, not a 4WD. Perhaps I can fill the interior of the diffential with lots of grease

so it will become a bit harder. Do you think it is a good idea ?

2) The steering is limited by the uprights (suspension blocks) which touch the solid axle plastic. I suspect the

steering radius will be very large compared with other trucks of the same scale if you don't use 4WSteering.

3) Most of the drivetrain is on metal bearings. Certainly ball bearing, available as option, are more efficient but I

think they are not so robust as the metal ones. Do you suggest to upgrade or for off-road driving metal bearings can be

the right choice ?

4) Other manufacturer' shocks have a membrane to separate oil from air. Tlt-1 ones don't have the membrane. Why ?
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  #2  
Old 10-05-2006, 09:53 AM
ronbeck's Avatar
ronbeck ronbeck is offline
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I am a huge fan of the TLT. I enjoyed my truck stock, but it has grown to 10th scale size for off road trail running and rock crawling.

The only way to get ride of the 4x2 effect when off roading is to lock the center ball diff. The easiest way to do this is to remove the adjust spring from the diff assembly, use a little thread lock onthe nut and tighten it all the way down. And if you want the axles to have equal power to the L & R wheels all the time you can lock the axle differentials as well, but this makes the turnig radius huge. I have had some okay possi-traction effects with grease and paste, but it breaks down in time.


4ws is the best steering mod. And bearings in the axles and steering knuckles are a great upgrade. And the stock shocks...ehh... We have 2 TLTs here and mine ran great on the stock shocks and the handles big jumps well, but my son's truck..man did those shocks suck! I changed to traxxas t/e-maxx shocks on ours.

good luck.

-peter-
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  #3  
Old 10-16-2006, 06:47 AM
setecastronomy setecastronomy is offline
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Firts TLT-1 test

Yesterday I made the first test of my TLT-1 and some worries became true.
The truck, as I was afraid, is not a real 4x4 and it is not a 4x2 as I expected too, it is a 4x1 !
If only one tyre is in the air or has no traction the truck is stuck!
I read that most people block the central ball differential. A ball differential is something more refined than a solid axle so my question is way Tamiya put it there if it is so useless that you have to block it. I tryed to thighten it but the screw is only 2 mm in diameter and I'm afraid I can break the threads if I apply too much torque.

Some people make a hole through the ball differentail plates and put a screw to block it, some other mount a TA04 diff and lock it. Which are the advatage/disadvantage of each choice ?

I completed the truck with a Tamiya sport tuned motor and a Novak reversible ESC.
The battery pack I'm using is not good and I'm going to replace it but I have some concerns.
The top speed seems anemic and I think it will not improve much with a good battery: is the gear ratio too high for good on road speeds ?
Besides the motor asks for lots of amps and watts but I don't see the expected performance and acceration. Perhaps lots of power is lost in the drivetrain, what do you think ?

I will use the TLT-1 for backyard bashing, so can you suggest a valid battery pack ?
What minimum capacity do you suggest ?
Is it important to have matched cells ?
And V-max technology ?
In a few words I would like to buy the best battery pack for my needs and nothing more sophisticated.

Thank you
Filippo
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  #4  
Old 10-16-2006, 09:29 AM
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ronbeck ronbeck is offline
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looking the diff up, what ever is easier. I locked the ball diff in my truck and then switched to a TA04 gear diff when the out drives on the ball diff wore out.

I would just use a 3000mah battery for general bashing somehting like this: http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...?&I=LXCUH3&P=7
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  #5  
Old 11-02-2006, 10:32 AM
setecastronomy setecastronomy is offline
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Yesterday I spent hours disabbleming my tlt-1 in order to substitute the ball of the diffrential with the Traxxas friction pegs.
Following the advice of Ronbeck:

Quote:
The only way to get ride of the 4x2 effect when off roading is to lock the center ball diff. The easiest way to do this is to remove the adjust spring from the diff assembly, use a little thread lock onthe nut and tighten it all the way down.
I removed the spring from the differential. It turned out to be a very bad idea.
In fact piece BH2 was not only subjected to torque but to a great force too because there was nothing below it. I thighten the screw too much and it broke into two pieces.

Bye
Filippo
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  #6  
Old 11-02-2006, 10:37 AM
ronbeck's Avatar
ronbeck ronbeck is offline
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Join Date: Dec 2002
Location: kirkland, washington
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Quote:
Originally Posted by setecastronomy View Post
Yesterday I spent hours disabbleming my tlt-1 in order to substitute the ball of the diffrential with the Traxxas friction pegs.
Following the advice of Ronbeck:



I removed the spring from the differential. It turned out to be a very bad idea.
In fact piece BH2 was not only subjected to torque but to a great force too because there was nothing below it. I thighten the screw too much and it broke into two pieces.

Bye
Filippo

I am sorry you had a issue with slowly tightening the diff. I had done this mod personlly to 3 different TLTs and never had it fail. I do not have a parts list here anymore, but if you can take pic of what broke I maybe able to find a spare for you here.
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"Just don't forget our deal, Lois. I sit through this and later tonight I get anal. You hear me? No matter how neat I want the house you have to clean it."
peter
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  #7  
Old 11-06-2006, 04:27 AM
setecastronomy setecastronomy is offline
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Thank you for offering help, but I temporanely solved the problem using a 3 mm screw and nut which stay in place for friction.
The broken piece is the one near the spur at the following link:
http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...?&I=LXWB95&P=Z
Bye
Filippo
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  #8  
Old 11-06-2006, 10:01 AM
ronbeck's Avatar
ronbeck ronbeck is offline
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Join Date: Dec 2002
Location: kirkland, washington
Posts: 809
Quote:
Originally Posted by setecastronomy View Post
Thank you for offering help, but I temporanely solved the problem using a 3 mm screw and nut which stay in place for friction.
The broken piece is the one near the spur at the following link:
http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...?&I=LXWB95&P=Z
Bye
Filippo
that nut holder is known to fail I forgot all about that... Sorry.. Should have remembered to let you know that...

How is the truck treating you now?
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