12-27-2004, 01:50 PM
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Micro Novice
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Join Date: Dec 2004
Posts: 17
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Whoops!
I er, accidentally dropped it while walking downstairs...
why didn't they put a handle on these things oh well nothing's actually broken and it still runs even in that state, going to strip it down and flatten the plates as best I can, time for that carbon fiber chassis upgrade
One other thing, does anyone else have problems with noisy drive cogs? mine sounds like they're grinding together, especially when going backwards, I've tried adjusting the distance between them but that doesn't help, maybe I got given an imperfect set.
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12-27-2004, 07:14 PM
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Registered User
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Join Date: Jan 2004
Location: Toronto
Posts: 529
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holy crap !!! i cant believe it bent like that falling down the stairs
i agree with the handles part lol, but usually i just grab the car by one of the axles
as for a noisy drivetrain, was it like that after you dropped it or before you dropped it?
if all the lengths of the links are exactly the same as what they say in the manual, there shouldnt be any bad noise
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12-27-2004, 07:30 PM
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Micro Novice
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Join Date: Dec 2004
Posts: 17
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It did look worse, I tried to bend it back a bit but without getting to the metal plates alone I couldn't do much. I think the whole weight of the car landed on one corner which would explain the bend, glad nothing broke!
The noise comes from the metal cog on the motor and the black one it connects to, it was noisy from the start which is why I'm wondering if it's a manufacturer issue, the only damage accidentally dropping it did was bend the chassis.
edit: this is what it sounds like: NoisyTLT.mp3 (273kb, 23 secs) first the TLT goes forwards in a circle, then backwards where it's even more noisy.
Last edited by Haku; 12-27-2004 at 08:02 PM.
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12-27-2004, 09:18 PM
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Registered User
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Join Date: Jan 2004
Location: Toronto
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are the links the same length as they indicate on the manual?
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12-28-2004, 01:59 AM
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Micro Novice
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Join Date: Dec 2004
Posts: 17
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Yes I measured everything exact to the manual's specifications, if I remove the drive belt it'll still make that noise.
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12-28-2004, 04:58 PM
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Registered User
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Join Date: Jan 2004
Location: Toronto
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hmm, so the problem is between the pinion and spur? not the dogbones?
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01-09-2005, 03:21 PM
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Micro Novice
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Join Date: Dec 2004
Location: england uk
Posts: 26
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stairs!!!!
How big are your stairs?
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01-15-2005, 06:11 PM
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Micrologist/Moderator
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Join Date: Jun 2002
Location: Bristol, England
Posts: 2,813
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Re: Whoops!
Quote:
Originally posted by Haku
I er, accidentally dropped it while walking downstairs...
One other thing, does anyone else have problems with noisy drive cogs? mine sounds like they're grinding together, especially when going backwards, I've tried adjusting the distance between them but that doesn't help, maybe I got given an imperfect set.
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Haku,
Was your TLT-1 noisy before it took a tumble down the stairs or after the accident?
__________________
Second place is the first loser
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01-16-2005, 11:23 AM
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Micro Novice
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Join Date: Dec 2004
Posts: 17
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It was noisy from the start, even before accidentally dropping it downstairs (which didn't make the noise any worse or better).
When I stripped it down to put the new bearings in and lock the diffs I flattened the plates and you can only tell it was bent if you look very closely.
But I got another problem at the moment, the diffs & drive belt are working fine but the large black cog (spur?) isn't gripping it's axle so the car's going nowhere.
Has anyone made battery packs out of AA batteries? because I've seen you can get 2500mah NiMH's very cheap now, to make a 6 cell 2500mah AA pack would only cost about 2/5 a sub-C 2500mah pack. But I don't know how long a run you'd get from them.
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01-16-2005, 02:09 PM
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Registered User
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Join Date: Jan 2004
Location: Toronto
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they wouldnt give enough power for the 540 motor
it would just keep stalling...
which part is the black cog your talking about? is it the center diff.. where the drivecups come out?
or the spur gear that the motor turns?
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01-25-2005, 05:25 PM
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Micro Novice
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Join Date: Dec 2004
Posts: 17
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Quote:
Originally posted by pomme de terre
they wouldnt give enough power for the 540 motor
it would just keep stalling...
which part is the black cog your talking about? is it the center diff.. where the drivecups come out?
or the spur gear that the motor turns?
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Tamiya's QD models use 8x AA size batteries and they go pretty well, but the motors in them are smaller. I've modded a normal 6 sub-C pack into a T shape for my TLT so won't bother trying a 6x AA pack.
I uhh, found out what the drive problem was, grubscrew came loose
It's running well but with a couple of minor annoyances, locking the diffs makes it difficult to manouver on carpet etc. and that extender bar on the rear wheels for the reverse steering isn't helping with the steering so I'm going to take the the servo apart and reverse the wires.
The other minor annoyance is when I pull away quickly one side lifts up before the other when it pulls a wheelie, the body leans to one side when accelerating and leans to the other when accelerating backwards - is this due to uneven spring power on the shocks?
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01-25-2005, 07:53 PM
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Registered User
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Join Date: Jan 2004
Location: Toronto
Posts: 529
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thats just torque roll, its basically impossible to avoid in these cars
you could lessen it by getting stiffer springs/heavier oil or going slower
using a normal y-reverser and the upside linkage setup for rear steering is pretty bad as you said
suspension travel becomes severely limited.... thats why most people just get a reversing y-harness
if you run indoors, i think its best to leave the front and rear diffs unlocked or else the car gets extremely tipsy
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