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  #31  
Old 04-11-2007, 06:52 PM
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Cool, cant wait to see it man..........
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  #32  
Old 04-12-2007, 09:03 AM
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Well the motor is in, had to sand down the rear axle carrier a bit more to make the mesh a bit better. Cut a V shape into the rear deck and added a washer under the upper deck pivot point of the stock rear shock. I found that even with sanding an angle downwards towards the rear mount, I still had to put a washer in there to raise up the pivot to get the shock to fit.

So then it made me wonder what is needed to fit the RC18 shock..? Would that pivot have to be higher stil?

Did you have any pics of RC18T shock installs on a stock micro or any micro?


hehee
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  #33  
Old 04-12-2007, 11:13 AM
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Sorry but nope, my 540 came with a rear standoff for the rear shock to move up higher then whats on the motor mount itself.....You might also want to do a search on this man.....im at work right now so my time on the puter is limited....... Just take a look on what you will need to mount it and im sure you can come up with something at your lhs.
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  #34  
Old 04-12-2007, 12:03 PM
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Oh yeah, ill have a chat with the LHS to see if they can come up with anything. If not I grabbed another washer from work that I can use in place of, becauase the washer I grabbed.. well .. i know it goes into the micro (somewhere) but I dont remember yet where it goes on the car LOL.

hmm .. onwards with my search
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  #35  
Old 04-12-2007, 05:50 PM
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Post a pic of the washer and maybe i can be of some help.
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  #36  
Old 04-13-2007, 08:28 AM
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well its a very tiny thin washer, and it doesnt even look like anything in HPIs instruction booklet. I searched the pictures and breakdowns and there is no washer like that one in the micro at all. LOL

AH ha! ... just found it (as i was typing up this post). It was part of the HPI dual link kit! hehehe

http://www.hpiracing.com/graphics/in...0-3%20Pg2o.jpg

#73425c Washer

See what happens when you dont build rc for a while, you forget what the heck everything is and where it goes and comes from.
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  #37  
Old 04-16-2007, 07:59 AM
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another one of my updates

Well I just checked the date of when I first posted a msg about my upcoming micro project. It has now been 2 months to the day that I started it.. lol. The good news is, that I finally got the micro operational !! So that must mean that I did something right.

I found out I have to recenter my servo, probably adjust the toe in/out to get more steering and probably adjust / tweak some settings on my transmittter that I used for the first time since buying it about 4 months ago (jr xs3 pro). I still have to find out why reverse isnt activating. Not that its really "needed" its just nice to have when im testing it out in my house and I get it stuck against a wall. I'am also getting a bit of belt rub on the chassis which after maybe 10minutes of using it isnt good.

I will get some more updated pics of how I placed the electronics, which when I placed them I never thought about how they were going to fit w/ the body on. So my RX is sitting just under the windshield area w/o affecting the position the body sits in. If i had it mounting about a mm or 2 towards the rear then I think I would be better.
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  #38  
Old 04-16-2007, 11:24 AM
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I have been going through this over in my head how come you dont have reverse.....you might need to check the motor leads making sure there the right polarity on the esc......pos to neg leads to the corresponding leads on the esc.
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  #39  
Old 04-17-2007, 08:40 AM
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Well I did what you said I should try, reset it all and set it up again. Now I have reverse!

So I cleared the data stored in my transmitter, reset up the ESC and then it was perfect! I could enable and disable it and I have full brake also. It's a double tap to get reverse to engage. Which was kind of interesting, because I have never seen that before. Nor did I know that is how it engages reverse. Reverse activates right as soon as you push the trigger forwards, on my Futaba FX10 so I assumed it was the same. But, this is a better setup, saves motor wear from being slammed into reverse from forward.

I did a full tear down last night. Recentered my servo, respositioned the servo horn, shaved down the front axle carrier a bit farther because I noticed that the servo horn was still hitting the carrier. Which now gives my servo the full sweep. It also would explain why I had lack lustre turning. What I did was put that carrier onto the chassis (without being screwed down) and then turned on the transmitter and tried to steer, if the carrier was "pushed" by the servo horn then I know its still contacting it somewhere, which it was doing on both sides. So I dremeled it till it wasnt being pushed.

I also noticed that the front belt pulley was "wobbly" and I had to figure out why it was doing that. What had happened was, the small tab where the bearing is pressed onto broke off and was sitting between the bearing and the pulley shaft piece. So I cleaned it off and now it seems better. Im tempted to look for an aluminum pulley to replace that one.

I know the HPI dual link kit wasnt really designed for the Hitec HS-85MG, but I have it in there. It just sits a millimetre to far forward. I measured up the HS-81MG I have for my gf's car and I can see how it would fit that much better.

Tomorrow night - another rebuild!
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  #40  
Old 04-17-2007, 07:11 PM
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Well if you need stock diff cases i have tons of them....but i do recommend getting the aluminum diff case from HPI it will just save a lot of heartache and teardowns. And i also want you to know that GM esc's are the same way.......with the reverse. And im also glad you found reverse........and listened to my advice.
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  #41  
Old 04-18-2007, 08:35 AM
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hehe yah.. as that saying goes " the guys will never steer you wrong " ..

Yeah its too bad the aluminum stuff wasnt a bit cheaper. It was already a kick in the nuts to pay $34 for the pair of hpi dogbones. $15 sounds like a better price based on the size of them. I will install mine after I see the stock ones blow up...lol.

The front diff frame is about the same price as the dogbones. Its too bad there isn't a ball bearing kit released by hpi for the front diff. Its either the stock geared one or the one-way kit. Which I may have to grab at some point in time should anything happen to those gears. I have seen one persons post (dont remember username) about the differences between the two and it sounds like ball bearing would be best for the front and rear. Once I get into racing it or at least running it more frequently I can judge from there what I figure I will need next.

Right now I think its spare battery packs
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  #42  
Old 04-18-2007, 11:17 AM
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Well as far as balldiffs goes its hard to find...you might want to check the bay to see if someone has one to sell......you can always get the aluminum diff case and use the gears in the stocker until you can find one on the market......that or go with the oneway which might take some adjusting too.
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  #43  
Old 04-18-2007, 12:32 PM
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Well im sure it would be ok for now anyways. Just gotta keep it clean and lubed and we should be good.

I want to start using my Savage OR start putting some of the X parts and other parts that I have purchased for it.... hmmm. Probably go with installing the parts I have, since I want to use it with my new transmitter (the Jr XS3 pro). Otherwise I can just head out and start using it now.

I have to stop talking about r/c's while at work. I want to leave right now and go home lol
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  #44  
Old 04-18-2007, 06:38 PM
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yeah i know how you feel.....when i get parts in i save them for the next day and then call in.........use a pto day man.....its paid.
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  #45  
Old 04-18-2007, 09:28 PM
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photos!

Well after playing with it for about say 20mins tonight, I got to experience what " 3 wheel driving " was like... ROFL. Needless to say the stock dogbone at the front pulley gave out within that time frame and so I ended up removing both dogbones and putting the upgraded ones in. I had " hoped " they would have lasted a bit longer, but I guess that big block was just too much for them!.

So I snapped some pics tonight before heading off to bed.

Right now the electronics are just "placed" there, everything is temporary till I figure out a better wire routing scheme or replacement of the electronics.

Enjoy
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