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  #211  
Old 07-03-2004, 07:24 PM
oXYnary oXYnary is offline
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Yea, I never experienced that clicking either. Though my diff is full of stealth diff lube and on the tighter side.
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  #212  
Old 07-13-2004, 12:14 PM
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Greenracer Greenracer is offline
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Re: 6 deg caster arm fix from XRAY-official

Quote:
Originally posted by overdose
I asked Xray about the 6 degree caster arm problem, and volunteered my version of a fix. They must have thought it over, and sent me their version of a fix. Seems like they might be including the parts with the 6 degree arms from now on?
The file came as a pdf, so I saved it as a jpeg for posting on the forum, hope it works....
None of this is necessary!

All you have to do is turn the carriers inside-out. Remove both carriers and switch them to opposite sides.
Sometimes it is easiest to overlook the most obvious
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  #213  
Old 07-13-2004, 06:44 PM
oXYnary oXYnary is offline
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Thats what overdose was saying green. In fact he has a thread: http://www.yourmicro.com/forums/show...threadid=14093
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  #214  
Old 07-13-2004, 06:50 PM
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Red face

Oh!
I am sorry. I apologize for my laziness...

gassho...
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  #215  
Old 07-14-2004, 09:46 AM
herman herman is offline
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finally got one...

got most hop ups... and got a couple of q's...

1- stock set up is 12* front caster, front is toe out, rear is 4* toe in.... got the 6* front arms, and adjustable front/rear toe out thingy (are they called tie rods? sorry real newbie here) basically my question is, what would a better set up be for the front/rear toe in, and how better is the 6* caster compared to the stock 12* caster?

2 - got the bigger spur gear... what spur / pinion gear would be a good combination for a 300 speed motor?

3 - got a 6 cell 2/3a batt pack... with the pegs that are supposed to hold the batt pack in place, it seems that it's a tight fit... i'm thinking not to install them and just velcro the batt pack right onto the chassis... are there any other solutions/suggestions?

4 - the front diff seems that its a bit gritty when i turn it, should i run it in a few times? or is it really a bit gritty at the begining? reading blind's response, saying that they're really quiet & "silky smooth", i feel that i've done something wrong....

thanks for any response
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  #216  
Old 07-14-2004, 04:37 PM
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DrDiff DrDiff is offline
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Quote:
Originally posted by herman
finally got one...

got most hop ups... and got a couple of q's...

1- stock set up is 12* front caster, front is toe out, rear is 4* toe in.... got the 6* front arms, and adjustable front/rear toe out thingy (are they called tie rods? sorry real newbie here) basically my question is, what would a better set up be for the front/rear toe in, and how better is the 6* caster compared to the stock 12* caster?
Much better turn in, but I still suggest running the car with the 12 degree front arms first. Then drive it with the 6 degree arms.

I personally suggest the 2.5 degree rear toe links over the adjustable links. Once the links are on the car it is extremely difficult to adjust them.

Quote:
2 - got the bigger spur gear... what spur / pinion gear would be a good combination for a 300 speed motor?
get the optional # 385701 small pinion set (13, 14, 15, 16) and the #309350 3x3 mm hex screws so that you don't have to keep swaping the set/grub screws

Quote:
3 - got a 6 cell 2/3a batt pack... with the pegs that are supposed to hold the batt pack in place, it seems that it's a tight fit... i'm thinking not to install them and just velcro the batt pack right onto the chassis... are there any other solutions/suggestions?
Out of the box the car is setup for a 5 cell side by side pack. A six cell stick pack will fit if you remove the pegs

Quote:
4 - the front diff seems that its a bit gritty when i turn it, should i run it in a few times? or is it really a bit gritty at the begining? reading blind's response, saying that they're really quiet & "silky smooth", i feel that i've done something wrong....
Mine was smooth from the start and still feels smooth. I would run it first. The car likes its front diff to be set a little looser than what you would set the front diff in say a 1/10 sedan.
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  #217  
Old 07-15-2004, 05:49 AM
herman herman is offline
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thanks for the reply....


I personally suggest the 2.5 degree rear toe links over the adjustable links. Once the links are on the car it is extremely difficult to adjust them.

thanks for the suggestion... what about the front? do you run any toe in up in the front?


get the optional # 385701 small pinion set (13, 14, 15, 16) and the #309350 3x3 mm hex screws so that you don't have to keep swaping the set/grub screws

hmm.. i got them too, but not all the hex screws.... which one would you say would be ok with the speed300 motor?


Out of the box the car is setup for a 5 cell side by side pack. A six cell stick pack will fit if you remove the pegs

if you remove the pegs how do you plan to keep it on the chassis? velcro tape? other suggestions?


Mine was smooth from the start and still feels smooth. I would run it first. The car likes its front diff to be set a little looser than what you would set the front diff in say a 1/10 sedan.

smooth... i wonder if i have to take it apart again and rebuild it...

thanks again for your reply
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  #218  
Old 07-15-2004, 09:48 AM
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DrDiff DrDiff is offline
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I still run the kit steering tie rod. and the car works fine. I believe that the kit setting is 1 degree toe out in the front.

As for the gearing I would suggest starting at the 13 tooth point.

The 6 cell saddle pack will be an extremely tight fit between the battery strap posts. Use servo tape on the bottom of the battery strap to make it extra tight.
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