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  #61  
Old 12-17-2006, 08:50 AM
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here's a video if the M18 Pro on a rather small track with a 4200 brushless


impressive

http://video.google.com/videoplay?do...77541215128633
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  #62  
Old 12-17-2006, 12:40 PM
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Thanks for posting the vid.....the driver handled the Pro well i think.
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  #63  
Old 12-28-2006, 05:10 PM
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i was looking at buying a Pro kit and putting my electronics in there , but i have to buy a new lipo and just couldnt justify the price tag

instead i bought a Motek Panther Chassis , and im buying a bucketful of hop ups along with my lipo in 2 weeks

Just to make myself clear , the New kit is kick ass, but im sure my car 2 weeks from now will be better than if i got a Pro and stuck my electronics in it
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  #64  
Old 12-28-2006, 09:28 PM
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Yes it should.....but you should do the wheel conversion as well....
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  #65  
Old 12-28-2006, 11:16 PM
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Yes it should.....but you should do the wheel conversion as well....
im actually not too crazy about the new wheel system , mostly because ive already spent 100$ on 2 pairs of hubs and Uni's from Jwerks , replacing those is like

if you catch my drift
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  #66  
Old 12-28-2006, 11:26 PM
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Yes i understand where your coming from......i still wonder if it will take the old universals that are out now.
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  #67  
Old 12-28-2006, 11:28 PM
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Yes i understand where your coming from......i still wonder if it will take the old universals that are out now.
im hoping i can shove my jwerks CVD right into the peice that has replaced the inner wheel hub, but thats just a hope
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  #68  
Old 12-28-2006, 11:30 PM
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We will just have to wait and see......
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  #69  
Old 12-28-2006, 11:35 PM
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We will just have to wait and see......
the great part about it is that the kit COMES with ball diffs in the front and rear , although my gear diffs run fine i want the ball diffs, not sure how much better they'd be though.........
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  #70  
Old 12-29-2006, 12:18 AM
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I run the composite balldiffs in my M18 now, got rid of the aluminum hardcoated ones for these....they just seem to hold up better and you dont have to worry about the pins of the unis eating into the outdrive at all. Take a look at the attached pic please so you will understand.
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File Type: jpg balldiffs 003.jpg (94.2 KB, 42 views)
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  #71  
Old 12-29-2006, 12:48 PM
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I run the composite balldiffs in my M18 now, got rid of the aluminum hardcoated ones for these....they just seem to hold up better and you dont have to worry about the pins of the unis eating into the outdrive at all. Take a look at the attached pic please so you will understand.
yes , having aluminum for both would be a bad idea, since they both have the same hardness , they scratch and wear each other down , but the composite would absorb the blow , and it seems from your experience that they hold up

how much do they cost and where did you get them? thse look like the Xray verison
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  #72  
Old 12-29-2006, 12:52 PM
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They are the Xray one's in fact......there a lot cheaper then the hardcoated balldiffs. You can get them at teamhelotes.com.
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  #73  
Old 12-29-2006, 06:52 PM
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They are the Xray one's in fact......there a lot cheaper then the hardcoated balldiffs. You can get them at teamhelotes.com.
Ill want to get a pair of those next time i buy hop ups

I got alot more room to run my car indoors now

How about ceramic bearings, i hear the balls are virtually indestructible because of thier chemical compostion, which i looked up and found was correct O_O. Besides that any other reason to upgrade?
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  #74  
Old 12-29-2006, 09:48 PM
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As long as you keep the stock bearings clean and lubed you wont need to go that route at all.
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