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Old 04-01-2007, 03:12 PM
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sescallier sescallier is offline
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Location: Minneapolis Minnesota
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My theory and experiences with the rc18.

Ok, I have had my RC18 for a while, and have altered it in a zillion ways, here is what I think-have learned.


Chassis- Stick with the stock, keep an eye out for the DP Delrin chassis, for carpet Carbon is fine.

Motor- If you decide to go brushless look beyond Mamba, Quark-Hacker, Wraith, C4, Aon, are better.

Servos- In my experience even the hs56 is fine, otherwise look towards more torque.

Steering- DP steering link, get metal stuff if you want to reduce slop more, mine works fine with the basic plastic stuff.

Radio- For a cheap and good radio look to the Futaba FM3.

Shocks- The threaded team shocks are great, green slime them, got for something like 40-45 in rear, 70 in front.

Battery- I1400s are nice, Lipo is insane, it drops so much weight.

Accesories-

DP gear cover is a must.

Robinson Racing hardened .5 mod pinion gears are nice.

Aluminum is junk, stick with plastic IMHO, your weight will be less, and its waaay cheaper and easier to replace, Keep your eyes out for RPM A arms coming soon!

I dislike Titanium links, they are heavier, IMHO dont move as well, plus the flex of stock AE links is minimal and can stop potential servo-chassis type damage, IMHO breaking points on steering-suspension-drivetrain are essential to protect more important stuff.

IMHO the drivetrain is the only real weak point of the vehicle, Shims and gear cover fix 95% of this, the other 5% is necessary, like stuff wearing out.

DP and RPM make amazing stuff, RPM bumper is a must, DP gear cover, steering link and Shock retainers are top notch, also like I said look for the RPM arms.

CVDs of course are a must.

IMHO the Screws type sets are not worth it, I still have a set sitting here, also roll cages are not worth it.

A good way to stiffen your chassis is with a Diggity Designs top plate, also check out their shock towers, battery strap, ect.

Rubber sealed bearings can be good, mainly good for dirt, ceramic bearings are good for indoors, though I think the weight of the cars couldnt damage ceramics anyways, bearings are expensive, so do research and they are a non essential minimal add on, something to squeese a little speed out.

IMHO, those aluminum arms-casters-towers are not needed, they add weight, alot of unsprung weight, and screws loosen from them if not loc-tighted, also you make more important things weak points then, plastic is cheap and easy to fix, keep these as weak points, and keep your weight down-speed up... Also the shiny metal is a dime a dozen now... And aluminum wheels are garbage...;lkjkl;




---------I am truly thinking less bling-more zing----------


I had a truck that was all factory billet-lunsford-ect out, with mamba-mamba combo...


The config I have now absolutely demolishes that truck config in every way, all i need now is to get rid of this mamba motor and get something strong....






Also I do know weight can add to high speed stability, I however think buying huge lipos and high KV motors to reach top speed it where you need weight, for low-mid speed precision driving-racing I think low weight is better, thus this is how I set it up.


And feedback positive or negative is welcome, also any further tips are welcome.

Last edited by sescallier; 04-01-2007 at 03:14 PM.
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