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Nerve
05-02-2008, 08:29 PM
Just bought a used Sportwerks Recoil Spashett Edition from flea bay and so far I seem happy with the purchase. What I received was exactly what I had bid on. I plan on racing this in the fall/winter of this year and next year with the other Recoil racers in my area.

Came with:
2 bodies (one clear), 7 tires (I wonder where the last one went?), 2 plastic wrenches for wheel nuts, 2 sets of springs and 1 custom cut set, 2 decal sheets and a buncha misc spare screws/part. Chassis has CVDs all around and blue alum motor mounts, driveshaft, shock bodies, rods. Also came with JR-285MG servo.

Here are some pics I snapped a few minutes ago:

http://inlinethumb01.webshots.com/41600/2150398360089991763S500x500Q85.jpg (http://good-times.webshots.com/photo/2150398360089991763ccHfCa)


http://inlinethumb41.webshots.com/41896/2975246010089991763S500x500Q85.jpg (http://good-times.webshots.com/photo/2975246010089991763sQNaSz)


http://inlinethumb29.webshots.com/41500/2617597340089991763S500x500Q85.jpg (http://good-times.webshots.com/photo/2617597340089991763tinizx)


http://inlinethumb18.webshots.com/2577/2547233300089991763S500x500Q85.jpg (http://good-times.webshots.com/photo/2547233300089991763YSqAoF)


http://inlinethumb25.webshots.com/41048/2328983730089991763S500x500Q85.jpg (http://good-times.webshots.com/photo/2328983730089991763oLCjHB)


Next task, to clean this up and rebuild it. Also to get some electronics installed into. I'm thinking about going Mamba 25 and a Dynamite C4 brushless. Possibly upgrade to Spektrum Dx3r by summertime.

Thanks for lookin!

alfred
05-02-2008, 08:45 PM
That sucker should handle well by then......and its about time you get a spektrum system.......the recoil does look nice......post some pics when you get the elec's installed.

Nerve
05-02-2008, 10:01 PM
That sucker should handle well by then......and its about time you get a spektrum system.......the recoil does look nice......post some pics when you get the elec's installed.

Well I know another fellow in the recoil class is running that same mamba / c4 combo. So I figure that is the only route to go. Plus he said he would give me a spare mamba 25 he had.. LOL.

I know the crawler guys in my area want me to go Spektrum and ditch my FM system. Downside is, i just bought the JR XS3 Pro in November'ish 2005. Ahh well, we will see what happens in the next few months.

Oh I will post some pics. It probably will be a very slow process since this doesn't have to be complete until about September. Unless I wanted to race it outdoors in the summer time, but I know I won't be able to attend all the races anyways (cottage on weekends and going boating).

:D

alfred
05-02-2008, 10:07 PM
Dude just take your time man....im in no rush at all.:D

Nerve
05-14-2008, 10:26 PM
Snapped some pics of my tear down and rebuild tonight. I wanted to clean up and redo the shocks with oil that I wanted in there.

Right now the rear shocks have 40w and the fronts will have 45w. I ran out of time for working on front end parts for tonight so I will finish that another time. I still have to work on setting up caster / camber on here.

SteveM is hooking me up with his stock of the 38 Elite 1500 cells (3x 6cell are going into this thing for racing) and I'm considering going with a Wraith 7K motor from Bishop Products. ;)

Some pics to look at:


Front shocks taken apart to be cleaned:

http://inlinethumb02.webshots.com/40065/2284319310089991763S600x600Q85.jpg (http://good-times.webshots.com/photo/2284319310089991763WzJMum)


Rear diff and diff parts scattered. The rear diff is back together now however.

http://inlinethumb15.webshots.com/8526/2904620050089991763S600x600Q85.jpg (http://good-times.webshots.com/photo/2904620050089991763qEzGyQ)


Front lower chassis parts and front diff and servo assemblies

http://inlinethumb13.webshots.com/43468/2155377670089991763S600x600Q85.jpg (http://good-times.webshots.com/photo/2155377670089991763slZtlK)


CVDs and motor mount (yes aluminum)

http://inlinethumb42.webshots.com/24233/2801298010089991763S600x600Q85.jpg (http://good-times.webshots.com/photo/2801298010089991763pRkGlv)


Rear diff assembly. If you look close enough you can see a slight bend in the diff cup where that pin for the CVD meets up inside the cup. It is "a hair" to the left of where that pin is in the photo.

http://inlinethumb32.webshots.com/17759/2725883750089991763S600x600Q85.jpg (http://good-times.webshots.com/photo/2725883750089991763TpWpnN)


So that is what I have done for now. Rear shocks have 40w oil and the fronts will be getting 45w. The ball diffs will be setup to half a turn out from snug (this will be a setting I will have to tweak later on). I will eventually have to set or reset the camber on this thing as well.

Thanks for lookin @ my "rebuild thread" :)

alfred
05-14-2008, 10:34 PM
So far its looking good man......its nice that Stevem is going to hook you up with some batts.:D

Nerve
05-23-2008, 10:13 AM
Just wanted to update some progess on this Recoil...

I had adjusted the front shocks in this photo. Basically I "thought" the ball ends were coming loose (because I could see the shock shaft threads). So I decided to tighten them up. Take a look at how low the front end now sat on the lower ball location. The chassis would rub on the desk.
http://inlinethumb44.webshots.com/42731/2256731970089991763S600x600Q85.jpg (http://good-times.webshots.com/photo/2256731970089991763olwRLz)


Comparison photo of upper to lower ball mounting location
http://inlinethumb22.webshots.com/40149/2678909280089991763S600x600Q85.jpg (http://good-times.webshots.com/photo/2678909280089991763OwVyow)

After some tweaking and then learning that the ball ends "weren't" coming loose, I ended up with this again. Basically it was identical to how the previous owner had set it up. I tried to keep the lower arms 90* with the hinge mounts.
http://inlinethumb29.webshots.com/42652/2722094660089991763S600x600Q85.jpg (http://good-times.webshots.com/photo/2722094660089991763Muuvcm)


Lower chassis view:
http://inlinethumb53.webshots.com/36212/2917218450089991763S600x600Q85.jpg (http://good-times.webshots.com/photo/2917218450089991763vCLweR)

Upper:
http://inlinethumb07.webshots.com/43078/2401659620089991763S600x600Q85.jpg (http://good-times.webshots.com/photo/2401659620089991763SiNTjJ)


Still have to decide on a motor for it. Right now im considering the Dynamite C4 8000kv BL motor and Sidewinder 1/18th Micro ESC. Otherwise, the Castle Creations Sidewinder motor combos are a whole lot cheaper priced then the C4 and Sidewinder. I have heard the C.C 6800kv setup is fairly quick. I dont think I will end up going with the Wraith motor in the end.

:)

alfred
05-23-2008, 10:21 AM
dang that suckers nice.....im drooling over here.:D :eek:

Nerve
05-23-2008, 10:54 AM
dang that suckers nice.....im drooling over here.:D :eek:

Wait till I get the electronics and batteries goin in it :D

After taking it apart, it really is a fun chassis to build and rebuild.

alfred
05-23-2008, 11:01 AM
And i see that it has a lot of tunability as well.....

Russ Winn
05-23-2008, 06:14 PM
That's a very nice looking ride. I'm not familiar with that particular car. It's 1/18th scale, correct?...The tuning options look limitless. How's the parts availability?

alfred
05-23-2008, 07:49 PM
Its a bit bigger then 18th......its 16th scale i think....please correct me if im wrong.

Nerve
05-24-2008, 09:03 AM
Actually it is 1:14 scale :D

Recoil Pro:
http://www.sportwerksrc.com/Products/Default.aspx?ProdID=SWK1460

RTR Sportwerks:
http://www.sportwerksrc.com/Products/Default.aspx?ProdID=SWK1450


Parts are readily available from my LHS. Horizon Hobbies main webpage I think has the bulk of the parts listed on there. Another thing about the parts, they are very cheap in price.

As you saw in the photos above, to replace an outdrive set off the diffs, $7 for the kit. Foam tires come in a package of 4 tires, $21.

Guys that ran these cars last season, basically got it setup and ran it the whole season without doing any mods / part replacements etc. Zero maintenance over the course of 4 months of racing.

alfred
05-24-2008, 09:04 AM
Thanks for correcting me bud........i cant wait to hear your review on the handling of the Recoil.:D

Russ Winn
05-24-2008, 07:48 PM
Hmmm....Might be something to keep an eye on.

Nerve
06-20-2008, 09:16 AM
Simple update on the status of this thing ...

Yep, it is collecting lots of dust sitting on my desk... HOWEVER, I now have a Castle Creations Sidewinder Micro and 6800kv Brushless combo for it. I have seen others running the older M-25 ESC, so the Sidewinder should handle it no problem. :D

I also have some battery building supplies finally. So I will start to work on building three 6 cell packs for it. Hopefully I get those done before it snows. :D

lol

alfred
06-20-2008, 09:50 AM
Oh just push that sucker around and have your wife take some action shots.......lol.

Nerve
06-20-2008, 02:42 PM
Oh just push that sucker around and have your wife take some action shots.......lol.

haha there ya go! You guys won't know the difference. Unless you spotted that there is no electronics :)

Russ Winn
06-21-2008, 07:37 AM
...too funny!! The hand pushing it around might give it away,as well.

alfred
06-21-2008, 07:44 AM
It would just be funny......hey i would do that as well......:p

Russ Winn
06-21-2008, 07:56 AM
Mornin' Al...I'm debating on going to Debbie's today and look for a new body for the mini-t. I'm not sure what they've got.

alfred
06-21-2008, 02:21 PM
cool man......let me know what you pick up, just got up from my long nap.:p

Russ Winn
06-22-2008, 02:12 PM
Nothing..........The only bodies they had for it was stock truck, bug, or hummer....I didn't like any of them.

Russ Winn
07-08-2008, 02:17 PM
Nerve - Are you using any special pinion gears? Your motor mount is the same type as mine, and the gear mesh on the facing leaves a lot to be desired. It seems as if it needs deeper pinions than most.

Nerve
07-17-2008, 09:38 AM
Right now, not using anything. No change since the last update. I haven't even touched it in a good month (or so). :o

As for pinions, I have no idea what I will be using. I do have a pinion that came along with all the other spare parts. Not sure on # of teeth.

www.rctech.net has a huge Recoil thread on there. Take a read (30-40pages) and see what everyone else is running. :D

Nerve - Are you using any special pinion gears? Your motor mount is the same type as mine, and the gear mesh on the facing leaves a lot to be desired. It seems as if it needs deeper pinions than most.

Nerve
07-21-2008, 09:45 AM
OK .. so just cuz I read this thread recently.......... I worked on it. :D

I have the motor and esc hooked up, but loosely mounted. Pinion that was included w/ the purchase is a 12T steel pinion. Unsure of who's make. The pinion lined up perfectly w/ the stock spur. I havent locked it down onto the shaft of the motor yet, but that will be done at some point.

I have been trying to figure out the best placement of the ESC / RX for the time being. I'm thinking about mounting the Sidewinder to the underside of the upper deck as far forward as it can go. Having the 3 bullet plugs from the motor to ESC make it a bit hard to route the ESC on the chassis (on lower right side).

The RX (which is the SR3100) im going to try and mount it on the lower chassis in front of the motor but below the ESC.

I will try and take some photos of the progress eventually.

I have 3 x Elite1500 nimh cells "Gooped" together and now I just need to solder them up and wire them and give them a charge. ;)

Russ Winn
07-21-2008, 06:12 PM
I got a Sportwerks pinion (12tooth), and it fits much better. They seem a little longer than the ones I have. I may be in the market for a bigger motor soon, anyway.
I'm using a Novak Spy, and it fits well on the upper deck.

Nerve
07-22-2008, 07:18 AM
I got a Sportwerks pinion (12tooth), and it fits much better. They seem a little longer than the ones I have. I may be in the market for a bigger motor soon, anyway.
I'm using a Novak Spy, and it fits well on the upper deck.

The one downside of the Sidewinder is the lower part of it would not sit flush if mounted to a chassis (no casing). There is only shrink wrap on it. So since the Sidewinder sticker side (upper) is mostly flat, that will be my surface to mount from. So it is going to hang above the drive shaft with more then enough clearance. :)

I knew before I bought this, I would be going BL with it. After seeing the BL recoils perform, I knew it was pointless to go brushed. LOL.

SN33KY
07-22-2008, 08:07 AM
zip ties work well!

i use that on my m18

[=

Russ Winn
07-22-2008, 11:48 AM
One option could be to remove the shrink wrap, place some thin styrofoam (or foam rubber) on the underside, and re-shrink the ESC...It would give you a flat side, and maybe more mouting options.

Nerve
07-23-2008, 12:05 PM
zip ties work well!

i use that on my m18

[=

Zip ties work on my nitro or my crawler. There will be no ties on my recoil or micro... LOL :D

Nerve
07-23-2008, 12:08 PM
One option could be to remove the shrink wrap, place some thin styrofoam (or foam rubber) on the underside, and re-shrink the ESC...It would give you a flat side, and maybe more mouting options.

Hmmm, good idea there. But even so, the bullet connections still hinder the wires from bending where I might want them to. As much as I would like to remove them, I'am rather hesitant about doing so.

I will stick to my original plan and mount it on the underside of upper deck as a first design and see where I go from there. Redesign would possibly by the method you described.

:)

alfred
07-23-2008, 01:16 PM
What i did when i was running the mamba i put deans on the power wire leads and the same goes for the motor itself......i left the other bullet connector alone.

Nerve
07-23-2008, 06:28 PM
What i did when i was running the mamba i put deans on the power wire leads and the same goes for the motor itself......i left the other bullet connector alone.

So what is the other wire used for then ?

I know on my mamba max (on my crawler) the white wire I just snipped off the end and left it on there.

I wonder if I swap it over to micro deans if that would work .. hmm.

alfred
07-23-2008, 06:31 PM
I kept the other wire with the connector still on there........im not a bl mofo so i dont know why its there.......lol.

Russ Winn
07-23-2008, 07:09 PM
I have no idea what the three wire are for either, but you should be able to remove the bullet connectors, extend the leads on the motor, and put the connectors back on.

Nerve
07-25-2008, 10:33 AM
I kept the other wire with the connector still on there........im not a bl mofo so i dont know why its there.......lol.

I cut off the connector so it doesnt have a chance to short out on the side of the chassis. Looks bad electrical taped up, but ahh well. I thought about unsoldering it, but in case I ever needed to use it, then its there.

This will be my first time going BL. Brushed is better in a crawler anyways (that is where my mamba is). But for light on-road stuff, BL looks like the better way to go.

I'm pondering ordering in another castle sidewinder combo for my MRS4. There is an Ebay store I found that sells them for around $90-$96 vs $125 at my LHS. So even with $12 shipping and canadian taxes, it should still be cheaper then if I bought it up here.

Then maybe I might be able to keep up to the M18 BL ... nah maybe not.

alfred
07-25-2008, 11:08 AM
Hey you never know.....i dont have a recoil but it does look like it will be a better performer then the M18.

Russ Winn
07-25-2008, 12:35 PM
I just found some plugs today...Deans 3-pin minis. (Part #1003) They could be used for connecting those 3 wire brushless motors, instead of the bullet connectors...I don't think it'll solve your wiring problem, but it would make motor hookup easier.

Russ Winn
07-25-2008, 12:39 PM
Hey you never know.....i dont have a recoil but it does look like it will be a better performer then the M18.

It does have a few more adjustments, and the shocks are easier to adjust, but I would have to say your M18 handles just as well. :p

Nerve
07-28-2008, 11:03 AM
Hey you never know.....i dont have a recoil but it does look like it will be a better performer then the M18.

What are you waiting for ...... jump on the bandwagon! :D


Russ Winn:
http://www.rcplanet.com/v/vspfiles/photos/WSD1003-2T.jpg

Yeah it might help with wire routing. It's just I find when the 3 wires are hooked up to motor, they are too stiff right in that connecting area of the wires.

Oh yeah I still need to get photos taken ... HA. I'll try that tonight.

Russ Winn
07-28-2008, 11:48 AM
Wow man...Those red 4-pin Deans are what I used to use with my 1/10 cars, back in the '80s...I would swap the 2nd pin (next to the groove) to prevent plugging them in backwards...Thanks for the nostalgia.
As far as the brushless wiring, I've never dealt with them, so I'm pretty much out of suggestions for you...I just saw those at the LHS, and thought of your issues.

Nerve
08-05-2008, 01:36 PM
Wow man...Those red 4-pin Deans are what I used to use with my 1/10 cars, back in the '80s...I would swap the 2nd pin (next to the groove) to prevent plugging them in backwards...Thanks for the nostalgia.
As far as the brushless wiring, I've never dealt with them, so I'm pretty much out of suggestions for you...I just saw those at the LHS, and thought of your issues.

haha nostalgia? ... I just went on google and found that photo...ROFL!

Hmmm I was turning 3 in 1980... ;)

Russ Winn
08-05-2008, 03:59 PM
Well now you know...I'm so far behind the times, it's pathetic :o !!!
As long as I'm dating myself...I remember brush-on liquid mask, bodies WITHOUT decals or overspray film, the "Hot Trick Stuff", Ascot sprint car conversions, MIP 4wd conversions for RC10's, and Losi only made parts for Associated!!!!....how's that?
Man, I'll be dragged away from brushed motors, Nimh batteries, and AM radio systems kicking and screaming....but I still have fun. :p

Russ Winn
08-05-2008, 07:25 PM
Hey Nerve- You have any good setup info for concrete/asphalt? ...Mine is pretty stable in the straights, and turns in well, but from the middle of the corner out, it's loose. I'm running 45 shore foams all around, 40wt oil in front, 30wt in rear, front shocks layed down (inside hole), rear shocks are upright (outside hole), and stock 6 degree casters...The stock rubber tires are just as bad, if not worse...I'm thinking the casters may need to be less (4 degree), but if you have a better idea, I'd like to hear it...thanx.

Nerve
08-06-2008, 12:48 PM
Well now you know...I'm so far behind the times, it's pathetic :o !!!
As long as I'm dating myself...I remember brush-on liquid mask, bodies WITHOUT decals or overspray film, the "Hot Trick Stuff", Ascot sprint car conversions, MIP 4wd conversions for RC10's, and Losi only made parts for Associated!!!!....how's that?
Man, I'll be dragged away from brushed motors, Nimh batteries, and AM radio systems kicking and screaming....but I still have fun. :p

Well since we are talking about dating stuff....

http://inlinethumb31.webshots.com/34142/2856128470089991763S600x600Q85.jpg (http://good-times.webshots.com/photo/2856128470089991763FLgETd)

http://inlinethumb13.webshots.com/43596/2387402110089991763S600x600Q85.jpg (http://good-times.webshots.com/photo/2387402110089991763dIksgU)

Futaba FX10 that my mom bought me in about '86-'87. My brother has one also, but it is mostly in pieces.

Nerve
08-06-2008, 12:54 PM
Hey Nerve- You have any good setup info for concrete/asphalt? ...Mine is pretty stable in the straights, and turns in well, but from the middle of the corner out, it's loose. I'm running 45 shore foams all around, 40wt oil in front, 30wt in rear, front shocks layed down (inside hole), rear shocks are upright (outside hole), and stock 6 degree casters...The stock rubber tires are just as bad, if not worse...I'm thinking the casters may need to be less (4 degree), but if you have a better idea, I'd like to hear it...thanx.

Haven't seen any setups for asphalt yet. However, this is (almost) the exact same setup as this fellow outlined here:

http://www.rctech.net/forum/showthread.php?t=146421&page=16

We race on high bite ozite carpet in the winter, so I just went with what he outlined above.

Russ Winn
08-08-2008, 07:22 AM
Well I did some experimenting last night, and found the handling improved quite a bit by laying down the rear shocks (inside hole on tower), and cutting down the steering throw to 75%...much better now.

Nerve
08-21-2008, 07:48 PM
Wow .. how about this... I'm finally getting around to uploading photos. :rolleyes:


http://inlinethumb25.webshots.com/27352/2204201420089991763S600x600Q85.jpg (http://good-times.webshots.com/photo/2204201420089991763YxlwQV)


http://inlinethumb41.webshots.com/37608/2922385200089991763S600x600Q85.jpg (http://good-times.webshots.com/photo/2922385200089991763rkNfcR)


http://inlinethumb52.webshots.com/43059/2490944850089991763S600x600Q85.jpg (http://good-times.webshots.com/photo/2490944850089991763ncYdRq)


These are the photos I was talking about a few weeks ago. Finally sat down at the computer to upload them..ROFL! Long way to go yet.

alfred
08-22-2008, 06:15 AM
Looking good man, cant wait to hear a small review on the handling aspect of it.;)

Russ Winn
08-22-2008, 02:16 PM
Looks really good, so far...You may want to consider getting some foams for it as well. I found the stock rubber chews up pretty quickly.

Alfred- What's up, man....I've been out of town last week on business. I still have those parts, if you need them...call me.

Nerve
08-22-2008, 04:06 PM
Looks really good, so far...You may want to consider getting some foams for it as well. I found the stock rubber chews up pretty quickly.

The rubbers are just on there for height checking etc. I have a few extra foams of different.. uhh ... colours I guess.

http://inlinethumb43.webshots.com/27882/2547233300089991763S600x600Q85.jpg (http://good-times.webshots.com/photo/2547233300089991763YSqAoF)

There are 7 in there. I think 6 were good, one was chewed and the one missing I assume is another one that was chewed. So I bought some new foams to give me a complete set of the front/rears that I will be trying out.

I'll be home tonight, if I remember to do so I can jot down what foam types I have.

Russ Winn
08-22-2008, 07:00 PM
At least you have some various tire compounds...They should have sticker dots on the inside of the rims (Pink-35, Magenta-40, Purple-45 shore)...Unfortunately, they only come in sets of 4...but they're cheap ($22 USD a set).

Nerve
08-22-2008, 08:35 PM
Alrighty,

1 complete set of #6902 Magenta's (in box)
1 complete set of Purples
2 rears of Pink
1 front of Pink.

I have it written down as to which colour I was going to run.

Russ Winn
08-23-2008, 06:44 AM
Sounds like you're hooked up...might as well toss the odd front pink, it's the softest tire, anyway. The purple and magenta should bemore than enough for tuning.

Nerve
08-23-2008, 11:31 AM
Sounds like you're hooked up...might as well toss the odd front pink, it's the softest tire, anyway. The purple and magenta should bemore than enough for tuning.

Nah, ill keep it as a spare for this winter if someone needs one. Help out a fellow racer. ;)

I think purple / magenta was the route I was going to take.

Nerve
08-23-2008, 11:39 AM
While im here, might as well update a bit.

I got it running last night, then I managed to kill my brand new 5minute old SR3100 receiver. Good news is, got it to work again. Sounds odd... yeah .. really.

Basically what I did was plug in the receiver, battery, turned it on and was about to start binding and testing it out. No problems, had steering, throttle, brake, reverse. Then after a few minutes of bench testing I went to put it on the floor and test it out... why wont it move? Why is the orange light not solidly lit on the receiver? ..hmmm

Tried rebinding several times, tried plugging the ESC into different connections on the receiver. It wasn't until I started playing with a 6V 5 cell battery pack that I got it to work.

I ended up plugging that battery into the batt/bind pins, the ST, the TH and even into the AUX. Yep I was bored and figured I would play around with it. Next I plugged and unplugged the battery repeatedly into the batt/bind connector.. ummm at least 10 times minimum, only for a brief moment. Long enough to watch the orange light come on,off,on,off.

Now, I have no clue what I did but when I went to REBIND it after leaving it for a bit... it was working! I had power somehow again. I went to rebind and it was fine for the rest of the evening.


So in case anyone else has an SR3100 and it goes dead. Try doing what I did and see if you can "reboot" it to get it working.


:D

Nerve
09-27-2008, 02:42 PM
Ok, so since I have been hijacking Russ Winns thread, might as well go back to mine for an update.

My JR servo is messed, I have a HS-225MG on order from my LHS. I also have 2 sets of diff cups on order. Tore apart the front end to figure out why i'm getting some wobbling effects. Going to see what I can do to help that and sort it out. I know the spur gear is outta wack. I also picked up some T.A silicone diff lube to replace the Traxxas black lube I have in there now. Hopefully its smoother.. heh.

Ummm, thats all for about a week while I wait on new replacement parts.

Nerve
10-16-2008, 11:15 AM
I think I do more updates on Russ Winn's thread then mine..:rolleyes:


Anyhoo,

Tore it apart yet again on Tues/Wed to figure out where this driveline clunking was coming from and to install a servo and change diff lube to a different type.



So I used nitro cleaner to get the Traxxas black lube off and I will be using this Associated Diff Lube (http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LX2882&P=ML) instead. Seems decent and I believe others were recommending it on Rctech.net.

After I cleaned up the diffs I rolled the balls in my fingers in a towel and I felt something on the surface of the balls. Needless to say, they weren't smooth and why rebuild it without having smooth balls ... (i'll leave that comment alone).:D

Anyhoo, I have been told that any 3mm balls will work and the ones from the Robitronics Scalpel (http://www.greathobbies.com/productinfo/?prod_id=RBTRA2049) would work. Plus they are cheap. I have seen a 10 pack of ceramic balls for around $14 range. Which I would need about 2 packs to get just 2 more balls. Nah, cheaper works for me.

Onto the servo,

Ordered in a HS-225mg servo and found out the only way I could get it to fit would be to goo it onto the chassis (which I dont want to do). If using the straight mounts, the servo case is too small, if using one straight and one of those bent ones, the bent one would have to be longer to match the level of the straight mount. It will fit in the area allowed however.

I have read that the HS65mg will fit (I think on Russ Winns thread somewhere it said it wouldnt?). Soooooooo ... I think I will give the HS65mg a go and if not then the DS285mg servo. Speed and torque are higher on the HS65mg vs the JR servo as well. Not sure how much of a difference I would see having a more torquey/faster servo would do for me on the track.

Anyone care to elaborate on that?

Oh I also picked up a castle link to program the Sidewinder 1/18th ESC I have for it. Friend of mine offered his, I didn't want to wait 2 months.. LOL.


Hopefully the LHS has the HS65/ds285mg in stock and if not, another week until I work on it again. LOL.

Russ Winn
10-16-2008, 06:11 PM
That sucks about the 225mg, but I think the HS-65 would work fine. I'm using an HS-55 (for Mini T) in mine, and it dropped right in. They're both really close in physical size. As far as torque, I think the HS-55 I'm using works great. I'm not sure about the strength for racing, but a metal gear servo should hold up well. Sportwerks seemed to be pretty limited on servo choices. (I had better options on my MRS4.)
Have you looked into using Tamiya balls? Some people over at RCtech were suggesting those as replacements. I'm sure I'll be doing that pretty soon, myself. The driveline wasn't very quiet, even brand new. It seemed to get a little smoother as it was run, but it's starting to get a little "gritty" now...Let me know how those work out for you.

Russ Winn
10-16-2008, 06:20 PM
Ok, so since I have been hijacking Russ Winns thread...

It's all good...I think I got a bit off-topic earlier on your thread, as well...No matter, it's all the same car (and not many around). :D

Nerve
10-17-2008, 09:53 AM
That sucks about the 225mg, but I think the HS-65 would work fine. I'm using an HS-55 (for Mini T) in mine, and it dropped right in. They're both really close in physical size. As far as torque, I think the HS-55 I'm using works great. I'm not sure about the strength for racing, but a metal gear servo should hold up well. Sportwerks seemed to be pretty limited on servo choices. (I had better options on my MRS4.)
Have you looked into using Tamiya balls? Some people over at RCtech were suggesting those as replacements. I'm sure I'll be doing that pretty soon, myself. The driveline wasn't very quiet, even brand new. It seemed to get a little smoother as it was run, but it's starting to get a little "gritty" now...Let me know how those work out for you.

Hmmm yeah I went back over your thread and took another look at that servo. Just checked up the price on that hs55... $11 on a canadian retailer page. LOL. But I know its a tiny servo.

I will be stopping by the LHS later on this afternoon to either pickup or order in a servo. If they have the HS65, I will get swap it for the 225 I have now. This one LHS is very easy going when it comes to returns.. :)

#53379 I assume is which ones they were referring to
http://www.etamiya.com/shop/tamiya-53379-tamiya-3mm-lightweight-diff-ball-set-p-4538.html

or $2 ish each for these ones... lol
http://www.etamiya.com/shop/tamiya-53124-tamiya-mm-tungstencarbide-diff-ball-set-p-4333.html

I wonder if those carbide ones would be worthwhile or just a waste of $$$.

Nerve
10-17-2008, 09:54 AM
It's all good...I think I got a bit off-topic earlier on your thread, as well...No matter, it's all the same car (and not many around). :D

LOL yeah, we are basically about the same for chit chat in a thread. Doesn't matter to me really. As least we are keeping them alive.

Yeah im surprised there hasnt been more of them popping up on here. I think that user Kavvika had one?

kavvika
10-17-2008, 12:45 PM
Yup, I sure do! It arrived in the mail yesterday. I was pleasantly surprised at the quality. It's a gorgeous car, and the aluminum and graphite add a very nice touch of class. The scale is just perfect. Large enough to drive it outside, but small enough that I can palm it and it doesn't take up too much room in my apartment. I think I will keep mine on the tennis courts only, as I don't want to scratch the bottom too much and for fear of hitting a rock. The streets in Peoria are just terrible.

The rear shock tower was tweaked, causing the car to sit crooked, but it's fixed now. The only other problem is the the front differential. Either the gear is warped or the outdrives are machined wrong, because when I look at it head on, the outdrives are not in-line with each other. This causes a wobble and a severe bind in the drivetrain. The other thing I noticed was that the center dogbone chatters a bit. There are no springs at either drive cup, so it has about a cm of fore-to-aft travel. Is this how it's supposed to be, or do I close the gap of the drive cups? Has anyone taken some RC18T dogbones springs and put them in the cups to tighten things up?

I ordered a pre-painted body to get the car running, as I won't be able to paint the clear body for a while. A Losi 22T pinion gets the power from the AON4900 to the wheels. I'm still not sure how gearing for this car goes, so I'll check for temps and then order a few more pinions. And if I overheat is, who cares? I still have 7 more AON4900's! I figure I'll gear the hell out of one motor, just for fun, trying to keep temps down with the 3racing fan heatsink. I'm running a Sidewinder ESC and Rhino 1550 2S LiPo, which should give me enough power to make things quick and interesting.

I still need a servo, since the S9650 didn't work out. Any ideas, other than a Futaba S9602, JR 285MG, or Hitec 225? I'll take some glamour shots this weekend, once my classes are done. So, which thread should I continue posting in?

I forgot to mention, it's a damn shame Horizon dropped the Sportwerks line and thus discontinued the Recoil. Ironically, I purchased mine the morning of the announcement. What are you two doing about this? I already can tell I'll love this car, and don't want to sell it. Should I go ahead and order a cheap used roller on ebay for spares before they become harder to find?

Russ Winn
10-18-2008, 09:32 AM
I'm not sure what you mean about the front drives, unless I can see what it looks like. As far as the center drive shaft, mine rattled from day one. Instead of springs, I was considering using some foam inserts to take up any slack.
I've been using a Sportwerks E370 (stock) motor, with a 7cell (8.4v) Nimh battery. The 22t pinion seems WAY too big for it. You can get a gear set that includes 2 pinions and a spur that will give you more choices. Most standard pinions seem too short to fit most brushed motors, and Sportwerks pinions are a little longer in the neck.
Servo choices are somewhat limited, due to the lack of space. I use a Hitec HS-55 (for a Mini T). It drops right in, and works well for me. I only run on a tennis court as well, so as long as I stay out of the fence, I'm good. Nerve was talking about an HS-65 for his. It's roughly the same size, so there are other options for you.
I've been wondering about the future availability of this car, myself. Horizon is the distributor, but it's manufactured by Carisma (through Sportwerks)...It has only been on the market about a year. Like I told Nerve earlier, it this one goes away anytime soon, I'm pretty much done with all this.

kavvika
10-18-2008, 09:03 PM
Think of a bent hingepin. How it doesn't roll when placed on a slope, and the ends are not in line with eachother. This is what my front differential looks like, right out of the package, when viewed head-on. I hope Horizon covers this, even though they no longer "carry" Sportwerks products.

I think I'll be fine with this gearing for now. It is a 24x33mm motor, much bigger than than the 20x30 Mamba motors, with at least twice the torque. The lowest Mini-LST pinion gear I could find was the 22t, and then they had bigger ones. I only searched for 2mm .56?mod pinions, not 48p, which is slightly different.

Russ Winn
10-19-2008, 08:47 AM
From what you're describing, it sounds like the outdrive shaft of the diff is bent. Check your LHS...I know ours has a lot of Recoil parts.
I'm not familiar with the motor you're using, but the gears you have would be too tall for my brushed motor. Sportwerks offers a gear set:
http://www.sportwerksrc.com/Products/Default.aspx?ProdId=SWK6908
It might be a good idea to pick one up for spares. I did notice on their website (in tiny letters) that it has been discontinued...:mad:

kavvika
10-19-2008, 02:02 PM
The AON4900 is a 370-can BL motor. Very torquey, due it's size and low-ish kv. rating. About two years ago, it was THE motor to get. Last year it was the Wraith 7K. If you're interested in one of them, LMK and we'll work something out.

I completely took apart the front diff and then reassembled it and now the binding is gone! I didn't think it would be that easy. But I'm glad to have this car ready and only waiting on my Spektrum TX, which I left at home. I notice that what I thought was a clamp for the front bumper and rear diff bulkhead are actually swaybar mounts! Since I can't seem to leave my models well enough alone I'm going to see if I can rig up some swap bars from the Losi mini-LST kit, which I believe was mentioned in the RCtech thread as a direct fit.

Let's talk about spares now. I figure it's a good time to at least buy a few parts in case support disappears sooner than we'd hoped. I was thinking about getting a set of rear hinge pin holders, some spur gears (unless other brands can be made to fit) and a second pair of wheels (rubber or foam?). Does that sound good?

I also forgot to mention: consensus seems to be that the stock rubber-tired wheels are somewhat weak. The foams, however, come mounted on stronger wheels that won't break as easily. Which shore foam tires is comparable to the stock rubber tires? I just want an all-around bashing tire that won't wear down quick with brushless power. I guess I want the highest number/hardest compound then?

Russ Winn
10-19-2008, 06:04 PM
Good job on getting the diff straight...
I haven't tried any swaybars, but I got mine to handle really good.
As far as spare parts, I would suggest the diff gears mentioned earlier, as well as diff drive cups, shock parts and possibly some CVDs if you can swing it. (That's what I'm going to be looking into, anyway.) High wear items like bearings and diff balls can be obtained anywhere.
The stock rubber tires are junk...period. Not so much the rims, but the rubber is too soft and thin. Mine were gone after 4 batteries. Foams are sold by the set (with rims) for about $22. The purple 45 shore tires are the hardest (long lasting) tires. I got a set, and noticed a big improvement in traction over the rubbers.

kavvika
10-19-2008, 10:11 PM
I did a bit more reading, and as glad as I am that I bought the Pro version, which is already hopped up, there's precious few other upgrades that I can do! The Mazda 6 body isn't terribly original, but I found that the Carisma Ferarri 360 body will fit. At $24, I might hold off for now. I'll definitely get the steering rack bearings to smooth things out. And it sounds like a set of 45-shore foams might in my future once I wear out the stockers. Handling wise, I'll refill the shocks with thicker oil and replace the springs with cut Associated VCS springs. Associated spring rate chart here (http://www.teamassociated.com/racerhub/techhelp/spring_rate_chart.htm). That about sums up what I've learned. Thanks for your help Russ, and I'll stop highjacking your thread now, Nerve!

Nerve
10-22-2008, 10:09 PM
ROFL! I like getting hijacked ... :cool:

Glad to hear you got that diff straightened out as well. When I got my Recoil and tore it down to learn about it and put it back together I had one HECK of a horrible wobble on turning in either direction.

Needless to say after a few good hours (ie. a night or three of work and tweak and playing around)..... the front end now turns like butttah! :D



Russ, I did end up getting another JR DS285mg servo and when I plugged it in, it made the exact same noises as the old servo w/o having any horns attached onto it. All settings on my DX3r are 0% or 100%. Nothing has been changed from defaults kinda thing. So I was starting to wonder if its just something those servos do.

Driveline problems: Mine seemed to wobble and be way outta wack. Now I have it so it barely even moves around. It is noticeable, but not much.

CVD wobbling issues: You know those small rounded foam thingys? Put two of them in each diff cup and it will force the cvd into the axle bearing that much more and prevent it from wobbling around loose in there. Mine do wobble, but now they are snug in there.

OH .. and yes I did replace all four of my diff cups. Much better.



I also put some Duratrax 1/8" (3.175mm) balls (as u guys may have already read on RCtech.net) and so far .. yes.. they work in the diffs. However, I do have some Acer Ceramic 3mm balls on order from my LHS (part #N004).


Russ, for my girlfriends soon to be Recoil. I think I will try out the HS65 for mounting and give her car my Sidewinder & CC 6800kv motor to race with.

I'am pondering a Sidewinder & Tekin 8100 kv motor instead. :D


(Reason for the sidewinder, I like how I can mount it under the upper deck).

Nerve
10-22-2008, 10:24 PM
I still have 7 more AON4900's! I figure I'll gear the hell out of one motor, just for fun, trying to keep temps down with the 3racing fan heatsink. I'm running a Sidewinder ESC and Rhino 1550 2S LiPo, which should give me enough power to make things quick and interesting.


When you post your photos, could you post up some photos of this motor? I tried googling it in the other day and I didn't have any luck finding photos.

Second thing, is this motor more "geared" towards high speed running vs small track racing?

I'm just trying to gauge if the 6800kv castle is going to be moderately "slow" compared to that motor or even the 8000 castle/8100 Tekin or 8000/9100 Dynamite.

kavvika
10-23-2008, 12:37 AM
I'll be sure to take pictures tomorrow. For now, there's some nice pictures of both the motor and data sheet at the bottom of this (http://www.rcgroups.com/forums/showthread.php?t=568766) thread. Current draw and other user measurements in this (http://www.rcgroups.com/forums/showthread.php?t=568766) review thread. The motor has been discontinued, and the company out of business, for over a year now. There's not too much about them online that's easily found. I'm not sure what you mean by high-speed vs. technical track. IMO, other than the efficiency/quality of a motor, the only distinct variables are size and kv. Given that this motor is one of the larger sizes that will fit in the car, and the kv is relatively low, I'd say it's more for a technical, twisty track. Of course, playing with gearing can make most any motor suitable for either. But by no means am I implying that this motor can't haul. If you dare strap in a 3S LiPo, your Recoil will be capable of doing this (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Qopc45W1_8c). If you like what you see, I'd be more than happy to sell one to you for a fair price. It'll give that poor 20mm Mamba can a well-deserved break! ;)

For your GF's ride, I think you're better off going with a motor that's large enough for this car, and then playing with kv and cell count to get it to a speed she can handle. I guess you could go with a Mamba motor, but 6800kv is too hot of rating, even geared as low as you can go. But then again, I haven't driven mine yet, so I'm just basing this off other peoples opinions. Might I also recommend the 24x35 HXT BL motor sold at hobbycity.com? You can choose 4400kv or 4040kv and they both have 2mm shafts. $17 isn't a lot to gamble, and you can always flip it on eBay.

Nerve
10-23-2008, 08:07 AM
Here this might help you out a bit. This is the area where I will be running the Recoil for the winter. I don't know exact square footage, but you can gauge the size of the basement approx.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=0aPFaFOr1Yg
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=86g1iDotXXo&feature=related
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=SgqOHdx0xmw&feature=related


The only running the mamba has done so far is on my bench. It would be probably closer to a month before it even see's the track.

The other thing is, LIpo's are not allowed in the club so if this AON motor is underpowered with 6 cell 1500nimh, then it wouldn't be an upgrade option. I does look like a decent motor tho. Technical / twisty would be our track.. lol.

One fellow I race with runs a M-25 & Dynamite 9200kv and his just flies around the track. Which is why I was going the route I was going. If I could get something torquey w/o top end speed, that would be the motor to work the best on the track (shown above).

kavvika
10-23-2008, 12:38 PM
Wow, those 1/10ths look huge running on that tiny indoor track! But I saw some great driving. I'd love to have a few laps around that track with my Recoil. I'm my previous post, I meant to ask "not sure what you mean by what motor to use with technical vs. high speed", not "what technical and high speed are in general. But anyways:

Step 1: You have one restriction- you're limited to a 6-cell NiMh pack. No using voltage to make up for the quality of the cell. I'd suggest EP1500's. I have their 4200 cells, and they are absolutely insane. The highest performing cell by any company I have ever tried, including IB and GP. I sent an e-mail to the owner of DIYminituner.com and he replied that he'll have a new shipment of cells in within the month. He sold out of his "RC18 6-cell SxS packs", which is what you want for a Recoil. Play with the packs positioning. My guess is you'll like it up front, as it'll give more traction to the front tires for those tight turns.

Step 2: Strap in a motor with the most available "horsepower". What the AON lacks in kv (and then only by a little) it more than makes up in torque. Picture a 6L SBC vs. a 2.0L V-Tec engine...and the Honda owner still hasn't sprung for the turbo kit. the AON is only a few grams heavier, which has the benefit of balancing the NiMh pack strapped to the other side and you'll be much happier bolting in a motor that's made to power a car as heavy as this.

Step 3: Gear the motor to the track! With gearing, you can make almost any motor work with your car and track. But the fact is, the AON, or any other larger-can BL motor, has much more power available, so you can gear up for higher speeds than a Mamba can give, or keep gearings the same for brutally quick hole-shot acceleration.

But, winning a race is 90% driver and 10% car (of course you already knew that!;) and practice and knowing the course can make up for a not-so-dialed car. Looks like you're running on carpet, so get some stiffer springs (copper and red VCS?) and thicker oil (40-50wt) to play around and find what you like best.

The Dynamite motor is 20x33mm, so no matter what, his motor will always have a bit more power than your Mamba. They say you should use the same equipment (tires, motor, gearing) as the fastest driver, but I think there are still even better motor options.

Nerve
10-23-2008, 01:03 PM
http://www.amainhobbies.com/product_info.php/products_id/28222

I have this on my wish list there and the last few days it was $112 (not the $179 scratched off).

But $99 is cheaper then the $109 from that Ebay place.. :eek:

Ordering via the states + conversion + tax + shipping is still cheaper then paying canadian from an LHS.

Looks like I know where my gfs car is coming from... lol

Nerve
10-23-2008, 02:08 PM
Step 1: You have one restriction- you're limited to a 6-cell NiMh pack. No using voltage to make up for the quality of the cell. I'd suggest EP1500's. I have their 4200 cells, and they are absolutely insane. The highest performing cell by any company I have ever tried, including IB and GP. I sent an e-mail to the owner of DIYminituner.com and he replied that he'll have a new shipment of cells in within the month. He sold out of his "RC18 6-cell SxS packs", which is what you want for a Recoil. Play with the packs positioning. My guess is you'll like it up front, as it'll give more traction to the front tires for those tight turns.

EP1500s? Would that be the Elite 1500 cells? If so then I already have three 6cell packs side by side ready to be installed. Just need to add wrap.


Step 3: Gear the motor to the track! With gearing, you can make almost any motor work with your car and track. But the fact is, the AON, or any other larger-can BL motor, has much more power available, so you can gear up for higher speeds than a Mamba can give, or keep gearings the same for brutally quick hole-shot acceleration.

Exactly! Quick hole shot would be more of what I was aiming to get out of my recoil. As you can tell (as i mentioned), fast top speed will not be required on a track of this area. I would like to try and have a car that is both light and nimble and quick and peppy.

But, winning a race is 90% driver and 10% car (of course you already knew that!;) and practice and knowing the course can make up for a not-so-dialed car. Looks like you're running on carpet, so get some stiffer springs (copper and red VCS?) and thicker oil (40-50wt) to play around and find what you like best.

Top of page#16 on Rctech Recoil thread is how I have my car setup (sydewinder?) or whatever his user name is.

Yes, running on carpet. Right now I have copper VCS shocks all around. Pics of my car would be on page 1 of this thread.



Hmmm and u said u have 7 of these motors right?

kavvika
10-23-2008, 06:58 PM
EP as in East Power or Enrich Power. The red and black cells as seen here (http://www.redrc.net/wp-content/uploads/2007/06/trinityep4200.jpg). Elite cells are probably just as good. Just as long as you're not using anything from a RTR, Duratrax, or Venom!

I started out with 1 that came with my RC18R. Then I bought a lot of 8 from a member on RcTech. They should arrive within the next few days. However, I had them sent to my parents house and not my apartment! I won't see them for two weeks. Once I get home I'll test them all and sort the good from the bad. I know for sure there's at least 3 traditional smooth cans in the mix. There's one heli version with a heatsinked can, and possibly a lower kv. Then there's 4 that appear to have a wider squarish base where it would mount up to a motor mount, about 2mm larger. At least that's what it looks like in the picture. Not sure why, maybe those are made for a heli too? But it's not bad, and it'll still mount perfectly to a Recoil. I'll take a crack at filing down the lip and then sell those for cheap once I figure out the kv rating.

Nerve
10-24-2008, 09:07 AM
EP as in East Power or Enrich Power. The red and black cells as seen here (http://www.redrc.net/wp-content/uploads/2007/06/trinityep4200.jpg). Elite cells are probably just as good. Just as long as you're not using anything from a RTR, Duratrax, or Venom!

Hmmm interesting. I might have seen them referenced on a forum somewhere, but I know I have never seen that can label before.

http://www.absolu-modelisme.com/typo3temp/pics/3af45f4377.jpg

Basically I have two 6cell Maxamp's 1600 packs (crawler) and the rest of my packs are ALL Elite 1500 packs. Four packs for my 2 micros, three for the Recoil, two 8cell crawler packs (to be changed for recoil use instead) and 6 single cells that haven't been completed just yet.

I grabbed 35....38? of them from SteveM a while back.


I might be interested in one of the motors for use on the track. Just to mix things up and get people wondering what im running. Course, if my driving skills are out to lunch, that won't matter. :D

BTW - I did end up ordering that Recoil for my gf from Amain. Fleabay has a no reserve listing for a Pro as well.

kavvika
10-24-2008, 12:20 PM
That's really nice of you; I'm guessing it's more than just a high school relationship? My ex was really good at driving my Rustler, but I can't say the thought of buying her a R/C ever crossed my mind. Either way you look at it, discontinued or not, $99 is a sweet deal for a decked out touring car with a 2-plate graphite chassis. What are your plans for it?

Sounds like you're all set for cells. Just wondering, does your Recoil have the ball bearing upgrade kit for the bellcranks? If so, what are your opinions on it? That's the only upgrade I seem to be getting mixed reviews on. Also, I noticed on the first page that you had some wear on the outdrives. What if you plasti-dipped the ends of the CVD's? Or would the increased friction offset any reduction in wear?

I'm keeping a close eye on that Recoil Pro auction. If the price is right, it's soo mine!

Nerve
10-24-2008, 01:58 PM
That's really nice of you; I'm guessing it's more than just a high school relationship? My ex was really good at driving my Rustler, but I can't say the thought of buying her a R/C ever crossed my mind. Either way you look at it, discontinued or not, $99 is a sweet deal for a decked out touring car with a 2-plate graphite chassis. What are your plans for it?

Nope, never knew her in high school. Met her on the internet and 4 years later we are still going. She drove my Savage under a parked car once...:p

Well, basically I told her... if you want to hang out with me when at the track you are going to need a car to race. Even if she just "putts" around the track, at least she is coming out. Needless to say, i'm the one making the bigger money and bought / built her a Micro RS4 last year and this year its the Recoil and the Micros are going on the shelf.

Agreed, $99 you can't go wrong. Right now on a canadian webpage they are about $220 and "clearance priced".

Sounds like you're all set for cells. Just wondering, does your Recoil have the ball bearing upgrade kit for the bellcranks? If so, what are your opinions on it? That's the only upgrade I seem to be getting mixed reviews on. Also, I noticed on the first page that you had some wear on the outdrives. What if you plasti-dipped the ends of the CVD's? Or would the increased friction offset any reduction in wear?

I'm keeping a close eye on that Recoil Pro auction. If the price is right, it's soo mine!

ROFL! Yeah i have it watching also. I want to see where it ends up.

Nope, mine are the normal copper/gold coloured bushings.

Actually those outdrives were the ones that came with the car originally. They have since been replaced with new ones. The guy I bought it from raced it for a bit and it showed. The chassis was in perfect shape tho.

Honestly, no idea's on the plasti dip idea. I'm just going to run it how it is and replace next season if they hold out.

Russ Winn
10-24-2008, 03:34 PM
Hey guys...I've been out of town this week, and am just now catching up on the posts....Just a couple of thoughts:
First, good job on both of you for getting your issues sorted out. Nerve, I guess the noise is something inherent with those particular servos. The HS-65 you're looking at for the girlfriend should be fine. Like I said, I'm using an HS-55 in mine. Also, the round "foam thingys" are exactly what I had in mind for the center drive shaft rattle. (I don't know what they're called, either.)
Kavvika, you mentioned bearings for the steering bellcrank. Personally, I wouldn't use them. Back in the day, when I raced 1/10 dirt, there was an option for bearings on the RC10 crank. The argument was it's not constantly rotating (like wheels/tranny), and only attracts dirt. I would have to agree, but the choice is yours. Just something to think about.
And lastly, I finally got my new batteries (1400 Mah Nimh), so I'll be putting together some new 7cell packs this weekend.
BTW, get some new pics posted !!!!!!

Nerve
10-24-2008, 04:36 PM
Hey guys...I've been out of town this week, and am just now catching up on the posts....Just a couple of thoughts:
First, good job on both of you for getting your issues sorted out. Nerve, I guess the noise is something inherent with those particular servos. The HS-65 you're looking at for the girlfriend should be fine. Like I said, I'm using an HS-55 in mine. Also, the round "foam thingys" are exactly what I had in mind for the center drive shaft rattle. (I don't know what they're called, either.)
Kavvika, you mentioned bearings for the steering bellcrank. Personally, I wouldn't use them. Back in the day, when I raced 1/10 dirt, there was an option for bearings on the RC10 crank. The argument was it's not constantly rotating (like wheels/tranny), and only attracts dirt. I would have to agree, but the choice is yours. Just something to think about.
And lastly, I finally got my new batteries (1400 Mah Nimh), so I'll be putting together some new 7cell packs this weekend.
BTW, get some new pics posted !!!!!!


Hey welcome back Russ! :D

Yeah we got a bit chatty on here the past day or so. I got a bit bored at work... (still at work while im typing this up now)...

For my steering I just put some silicone grease on the two bolt that locks everything down. Didn't really need it, but I did it anyways.


Yeah we do need to get some pics on our threads! Way too much chit chat!

kavvika
10-26-2008, 10:37 PM
I was about 50/50 on the bellcrank bearings. Just trying to reduce slop and find mods to do to this car. But it sounds like they'd create even more and just attract dirt. A tiny dab of Vasoline or grease might be a good idea to make steering slightly smoother.

Yeah, were are a bit talkative here. This is probably the most popular thread on YM right now! Sounds like we need a separate generic Recoil discussion thread apart from each of our build threads.

Nerve
10-27-2008, 07:58 AM
Yeah, were are a bit talkative here. This is probably the most popular thread on YM right now! Sounds like we need a separate generic Recoil discussion thread apart from each of our build threads.

Hmm, yeah that might be a decent thread to consider adding here. It would be better for searching/discussing vs using this "other" thread. The three of us seem to be keeping the Recoil threads active. More are always welcomed.

My gf's recoil has been shipped out. I should have it by the end of the week. Then I have that to tear into and tweak, get electronics in and wait for the track to open.

nibble77
10-27-2008, 08:30 AM
hello everyone.
Let me introduce myself.
I'm a spabnish rc fan and i recently found this forum. Is one of mostactive recoil forum and you seem to be rc marters. Sorry for my english I'll try to write the best that i can.
I bought 2 weeks ago the japanese brother of sportwerks recoil. and last week i found a good ebay offer and i get a a recoil and a spashett pro version for a ridiculous price. i'm waitting for those cars but as soon as i get them i'll post some pics of sportwerks sedan and carisma skyline.
Hope you help me when i get in troubles and of course to give you a hand when you need it.
Best regards from spain.
Nibble77

Nerve
10-27-2008, 09:01 AM
hello everyone.
Let me introduce myself.
I'm a spabnish rc fan and i recently found this forum. Is one of mostactive recoil forum and you seem to be rc marters. Sorry for my english I'll try to write the best that i can.
I bought 2 weeks ago the japanese brother of sportwerks recoil. and last week i found a good ebay offer and i get a a recoil and a spashett pro version for a ridiculous price. i'm waitting for those cars but as soon as i get them i'll post some pics of sportwerks sedan and carisma skyline.
Hope you help me when i get in troubles and of course to give you a hand when you need it.
Best regards from spain.
Nibble77


Welcome to the forums ! :cool:

Yeah I have started to see some wicked deals on Recoils in the past few days on Ebay. Amain hobbies also has them on sale for $99 USD.

The one good part about something being discontinued, cheaper prices..LOL!

Russ Winn
10-27-2008, 02:41 PM
Welcome to the forum, Nibble77...It's always good to have new people interested in the hobby. I think Nerve, Kavvika and I have been basically leaning about the Recoil as we go. Please feel free to post any questions or suggestions as you can.
Also, please post a pic of the Japanese Recoil...I would like to see the differences.

Nerve
10-28-2008, 02:08 PM
Not sure if Kav or Russ have touched on this subject or not.. setting Toe in/out on the Recoil.

I do realize on how to adjust it on the car (the threaded links on the rear of the steering knuckles), but how do you measure what degree of Toe In/Out you are currently sitting with..?

I do have a RPM Camber Gauge to check my camber setting. So that is fine. But trying to figure out where my toe in/out degree setting has been somewhat confusing without a gauge of some sort.

Stock is apparently 1 degree out, but I have no idea where that is. As I have a used chassis and the links all show signs of plier teeth marks on them.

Nerve
10-28-2008, 10:17 PM
What .. really .. are you serious... some photos in this overly large chat build thread ... :eek:



Snapped some tonight of my progress.


Semi close up shot showing the DS285mg (notice the mount):
http://inlinethumb23.webshots.com/41302/2141782610089991763S600x600Q85.jpg (http://good-times.webshots.com/photo/2141782610089991763wzNvwe)


Photo of my layout so far. Shrink wrapped the wires a bit to hold them in there. My receiver is snug up against that centre support and the wire goes straight up that tube
http://inlinethumb33.webshots.com/41376/2510834890089991763S600x600Q85.jpg (http://good-times.webshots.com/photo/2510834890089991763LrJUmH)


Batteries ...? :D
http://inlinethumb44.webshots.com/43947/2990792420089991763S600x600Q85.jpg (http://good-times.webshots.com/photo/2990792420089991763zshKiG)


Updated pack design. My shrink wrap idea didn't quite turn out as planned, but well I think it will work... LOL.
http://inlinethumb51.webshots.com/17842/2612017670089991763S600x600Q85.jpg (http://good-times.webshots.com/photo/2612017670089991763mOAagV)


Top shot with everything installed etc.
http://inlinethumb59.webshots.com/42170/2523482090089991763S600x600Q85.jpg (http://good-times.webshots.com/photo/2523482090089991763tkxhtt)



So that is basically where I stand on it. Still need to finish the battery building and perfect my shrinking skills... LOL.

Nerve
10-30-2008, 06:26 PM
Came home tonight, there was a package on my bed ..


hmmmmmmmmmmmmmm :rolleyes: wonder what it is ?

http://inlinethumb30.webshots.com/43101/2971027980089991763S600x600Q85.jpg (http://good-times.webshots.com/photo/2971027980089991763KGgnpE)


Hmmm, well lets just open up the box and see. .....


It's a bunch of discontinued r/c car parts ! :D
(well one is.. )

http://inlinethumb29.webshots.com/41436/2763315790089991763S600x600Q85.jpg (http://good-times.webshots.com/photo/2763315790089991763wQWykr)


Yep, there is my girlfriends new racer. HS65mg (which I might steal..haha) in the front, magenta and purple foams, a sidewinder and at time of purchase I knew I needed a motor and I just decided to grab a Tekin 8.1kv motor "just to see how it does".

However, after chatting to Kav and reading his posts, I might be interested in ordering in one of the HobbyCity 4400kv motors and going with a 22T pinion as well.

Eventually I will take photos of my gfs ride when completed.

Also, I ordered this via Amain Hobbies and from Chico, Cali to Ontario, Canada in 4 days! Not too shabby. I placed the order on Friday evening at 5pm (eastern). I think I received word that USPS was shipping it Sunday. Checked the status Tues (or was it Wed?) and it said it was in Canada customs. I was shocked! Came home tonight and there it was.

So I will have to give a thumbs-up to Amain!

Nerve
10-30-2008, 08:01 PM
Some observations of the Recoil Pro kit vs used

1) the manual. Why isnt that posted online anywhere? It offered a bit more insight into the setup/install of the model. Otherwise it is the same as the RTR manual tho.

2) the JR ds285mg is shown in the photos. Might explain on why it has been deemed "popular".

3) The hinge pins, I finally know the proper usage of the hinge pins. When I rebuilt my Recoil I had a vague idea as to which are the correct ones to use. Needless to say, both my front lower control arms slide forward and backwards (which I guess it isnt supposed to do).

Proper hinge pins are:

Fronts: FW and blank on opposite side for both front front and front rear.
Rears: Rear front is R on right and W on left side. Rear rear is R on left rear and 3W on right rear.

(above was also posted for my notes so I can reference this for future if need be).

4) seems to be a fair bit of "binding" goin on w/ the drivetrain. Needless to say it will be corrected with new 3mm diff balls and lube and tear down. I believe I read that Kav had the exact same issues.



Hmm, other then that is is nice to finally have a "template" to base my recoil chassis on to correct any issues I made on my chassis.

kavvika
10-31-2008, 02:37 PM
There's nothing like opening up a new R/C package. Admittedly, I've only had the chance to do it twice, but you can't beat having an unabused car to display on the shelf until you decide to run it.

My Pro came with the RTR manual too. Not terribly helpful. Tearing apart the diffs is a learning experience in itself.

Just to let you know, the Tekin motor is actually a re-badged Castle CM20 motor. Underneath the sticker is a green anodized can. At least, they were about a half-year ago. My guess is your 8100kv motor is a CM2080 that's generously rated. Geared low enough, it should give a nice smooth powerband.

Oh, and finally someone has posted pictures! Mine is in no shape to snap photos of anytime soon.

Russ Winn
11-01-2008, 07:50 PM
Hey Nerve, congrats on the new ride!! In case you or Kav didn't know, the front uprights are 6 degree. There are 4 degree blocks in the box, as well. I went with those on my car, and it made the cornering more predictable.
As far as the adjustment on the rear hinge pins, I left mine alone. I think that will change the rear toe a bit when you move positions around. I may have to experiment next time I go run it.

Nerve
11-03-2008, 12:35 PM
There's nothing like opening up a new R/C package. Admittedly, I've only had the chance to do it twice, but you can't beat having an unabused car to display on the shelf until you decide to run it.

Hmm, I have had 6 chances at that. The recoil, two micros, one savage, one midnight pumpkin QD and one Futaba FX10 from 1988 or something... LOL.

Now the QD and FX10 were parents purchase also.. lol.

Just to let you know, the Tekin motor is actually a re-badged Castle CM20 motor. Underneath the sticker is a green anodized can. At least, they were about a half-year ago. My guess is your 8100kv motor is a CM2080 that's generously rated. Geared low enough, it should give a nice smooth powerband.

Hmmmm interesting. Here I thought it was something completely different. The overly loud chirp that comes from the 6800 kind of bugs me. So I thought maybe a different supplier might have a different motor.

Still considering the hobbycity one tho :D

Nerve
11-03-2008, 12:41 PM
Hey Nerve, congrats on the new ride!! In case you or Kav didn't know, the front uprights are 6 degree. There are 4 degree blocks in the box, as well. I went with those on my car, and it made the cornering more predictable.
As far as the adjustment on the rear hinge pins, I left mine alone. I think that will change the rear toe a bit when you move positions around. I may have to experiment next time I go run it.

Yeah I might look into changing the 4 degree blocks. Probably keep my girlfriends car at 6degree tho. I think the guy before me bought that extra set cuz im sure I have 4 of them sitting around.

The rear pins w/ the shims I have kept the same. The plastic pin holders I didn't know which way was proper... soooooo I guessed. I was wrong. I just made the front pin holders the same as the rear (don't do that). The front arms I could slide back and forth a few cm's.

I have now changed it to match what stock is and everything is good again.

nibble77
11-04-2008, 07:52 AM
Hi people.
I see you're working very hard on this little beast.
Well Yesterday arrived my new 2 'coils. A complete PRO version and as a gift a standard chassis and body, so i have a nice mini "scuderia" lol.
You'll have a complete comparison of the three cars. Recoil PRO, Recoil std and Carisma GT14 gonna burn my digital camera to give you tons of pictures.
The PRO version comes with a recoil stock servo, a mamba 25 esc and a dynamite motor (RPM unknown). Also have a quite ugly set of foam tires, seems to be selfmade, and a bad looking body desing. With time i'll clean the body and paint a better looking racer. by now i'll use the std black painted body.
I'll keep you informed.
From Spain for Yourmicro.com :D
Nibble77

Nerve
11-05-2008, 11:08 AM
As an update to my thread, I decided to place the order for that HXT 4400kv motor that Kav mentioned on page1 of his build thread from HobbyCity.com. Figured why not give it a shot.

Still waiting to see if it gets ok'd or if there is some issue holding it up.. lol.

kavvika
11-05-2008, 12:15 PM
Excellent choice! It'll be a torque monster. If it's anything like my AON, it won't ever get over 100 degrees and you should have no cogging.

I'll be waiting for a full review!

Nerve
11-06-2008, 12:23 PM
Excellent choice! It'll be a torque monster. If it's anything like my AON, it won't ever get over 100 degrees and you should have no cogging.

I'll be waiting for a full review!


Oh you know me and yappy little ways on here. I'll squeeze out some photos as well. :D

First time ordering something from Hong Kong also. I have heard good things so far. Faster then ordering anything via the states.

nibble77
11-07-2008, 01:31 AM
Here are the pics finally.
Itook them yesterday night.
Now i'll start the reconstruction work.
First of all i'll reasemble and clean my new cars. check and rewire the esc and then i'll make a test. Later i'll get some good servos,Rx and some lipo batterys.
http://lh3.ggpht.com/_J1HD9cHKtu4/SRPsPVTmFVI/AAAAAAAAAWI/pfKyRWg-AIY/s400/3coches.JPG
http://lh6.ggpht.com/_J1HD9cHKtu4/SRPsPjTw9rI/AAAAAAAAAWQ/1rot0zK74ng/s800/3coches_2.JPG
http://lh6.ggpht.com/_J1HD9cHKtu4/SRPsPvhgYJI/AAAAAAAAAWY/cHhoPGewaXs/s800/carisma1.JPG
http://lh6.ggpht.com/_J1HD9cHKtu4/SRPsPwEbkjI/AAAAAAAAAWg/VNQGSKa5szA/s800/carisma2.JPG
http://lh5.ggpht.com/_J1HD9cHKtu4/SRPsP_M2DFI/AAAAAAAAAWo/PpqXPLy_IH4/s800/carisma3.JPG
http://lh5.ggpht.com/_J1HD9cHKtu4/SRPs_0e2bsI/AAAAAAAAAWw/-y6_P-S-U5c/s800/carisma4.JPG
http://lh5.ggpht.com/_J1HD9cHKtu4/SRPtANwd4RI/AAAAAAAAAW4/DHGzBBTJIz4/s800/carisma5.JPG
http://lh5.ggpht.com/_J1HD9cHKtu4/SRPtAnfn49I/AAAAAAAAAXA/SorXkN1IQH0/s800/carisma6.JPG
http://lh4.ggpht.com/_J1HD9cHKtu4/SRPtAl1uFiI/AAAAAAAAAXI/BKwtsVQwLDI/s800/Recoil1.JPG
http://lh3.ggpht.com/_J1HD9cHKtu4/SRPtAg71k-I/AAAAAAAAAXQ/Br0fstBf82g/s800/Recoil2.JPG

nibble77
11-07-2008, 01:41 AM
And here more pics
hope you like them
http://lh5.ggpht.com/_J1HD9cHKtu4/SRPtdLsZQqI/AAAAAAAAAXY/CwntnUq-_4s/s800/Spashett1.JPG
http://lh5.ggpht.com/_J1HD9cHKtu4/SRPtdEmJDEI/AAAAAAAAAXg/uduUmMFTA9c/s800/Spashett2.JPG
http://lh5.ggpht.com/_J1HD9cHKtu4/SRPtdb9YgVI/AAAAAAAAAXo/TLddaBFTXm8/s800/Spashett3.JPG
http://lh4.ggpht.com/_J1HD9cHKtu4/SRPtdUlvzHI/AAAAAAAAAXw/yhNU9k0QWMk/s800/Spashett4.JPG

Nerve
11-07-2008, 10:23 AM
Interesting. Thanks for the pics of the charisma. That body is pretty detailed (side mirrors).. lol.

Reminds me of my Micro RS4 body...heh.

alfred
11-07-2008, 11:17 AM
Yes i agree that body is pretty detailed......i would like to get feed back on the Carisma when you get the chance to get out and play.:D

Russ Winn
11-07-2008, 06:42 PM
Yeah, the Carisma looks a lot like a stock RTR recoil. I was wondering what they looked like...Nibble, did you get all 3 cars in a package deal? At best, you have a fleet. At worst, you have a LOT of spare parts....nice.

nibble77
11-10-2008, 02:35 AM
i get the carisma fro the famous chinese shop. it was in an irresistible price and i want a mini bigger than a 1/18 and something cheaper than a 1/10. The answer was a carisma (recoil).
Both are exactly the same. the only doubt i have is the stock motor. Reading in forums people say that carisma is a little better. I cant compare them cause i haven't a sportwerks stock motor.
My plan is to get a racer and a drifter to have some fun. over here there aren't racer for this class but i preferr to get the better performance that i can.

Nerve
11-24-2008, 09:39 AM
As an update......

I still have the photos of the new Hobby City motor on my camera, I will try and get those uploaded tonight. I also haven't touched my recoils in a good week or two.

However, I got a call this past weekend from the LHS letting me know my RE order of 30 x 3mm diff balls, vcs springs, stealth lube, servo saver for hs65 have now come in. So i'm going to stop by tonight after work and pickup the parts and start working on the 'coil again.

Hopefully sometime early next month they lay the carpet down again at the track and I can start testing out my Recoil. Curious to see how the motor does on the track, curious to see how the 285mg steering servo does, curious.. well just about everything in relation to this thing.

Nerve
11-25-2008, 11:05 AM
The stop in to the hobby shop didn't quite go as planned...

I had ordered in 3 packs of Acer 3mm diff balls and I didn't notice on check-out that I only had the one set. It wasn't until I was in the truck heading home (in the dark, rain, slush, snow, sleet etc) that I noticed I would have to get them to reorder 2 more 10packs for this weekend.

Needless to say, I get a call from the LHS owner later on today saying they just misplaced them and they were there after all. :D

While I was there, I also picked up 3 Robison Racing pinions, 21,22,23T .05 Mods. Kav had recommended a 22T pinion to start, so now I have three to get me started with some tweaking.

One of the LHS employee's mentioned to me about doing some "simple math" to figure out the pinions etc, but he never elaborated on that comment.

Any possible input on that from anyone reading this thread....?

Nerve
11-25-2008, 07:59 PM
Photo updates:

Finally got around to uploading the photos..


This is how I received the motor from Hobby City. Must say, it was very very well packaged.
http://inlinethumb11.webshots.com/43210/2343311180089991763S600x600Q85.jpg (http://good-times.webshots.com/photo/2343311180089991763SZrmVR)


Hmm, well packaged? Yeppers. That is more bubble wrap around the motor to ensure 100% no damage during shipping. Simply awesome!
http://inlinethumb51.webshots.com/42866/2031038700089991763S600x600Q85.jpg (http://good-times.webshots.com/photo/2031038700089991763XTQBgZ)


Shot of the motor itself, so you can see size etc.
http://inlinethumb21.webshots.com/43796/2482249230089991763S600x600Q85.jpg (http://good-times.webshots.com/photo/2482249230089991763IJhMwU)


One photo that is missing from Hobby Citys webpage:
http://inlinethumb21.webshots.com/41172/2839999640089991763S600x600Q85.jpg (http://good-times.webshots.com/photo/2839999640089991763wmlvWd)



Install photos .... wait for the next photo update.

Nerve
11-30-2008, 03:26 PM
Well, had some free time today ...

Rebuilt my girlfriends front and rear diffs with Acer #T004 Tungsten Carbide 3mm diff balls. Mine will get the upgrade next. I also dumped out the stock fluid in the shocks and went with 45w up front and 40w on the rear (same as mine). Right now on her car i'm running stock yellow springs on front and rear to see how it handles vs the coloured VCS springs.

I also started to install the HS65mg and as in Kav's build thread, I too have ran into an issue with the #21049 Team Assoc. Hitec Servo saver. The plastic parts fit perfectly, but the screws provided are not the proper ones to work with the HS65mg.

I have emailed Lutach on RCtech to see about a replacement screw package to use with the servo. When he replies back to what was used, I will update again.


As I was just typing this up I found this information on a Ebay webpage of all places....

INCLUDES: (1) HS-65MG Micro Servo
(4) M1.7x7 servo mounting screws
(1) Two-sided servo horn
(1) One-sided servo horn
(1) M1.7x3 servo horn screw
(1) Four-sided servo horn


So in order to mount the Team Assoc #21049 servo saver, I would need a M1.7 x 9 screw. Hmmmmmmmm

KAV: If you wanted to update your servo posting, the #21049 TA Servo Saver comes with: Two 2.5x9mm button head phillips screws


EDIT: Just found this thread on google
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/m_7945870/tm.htm

M2.3 x 8mm is the size im looking for.

:)

alfred
11-30-2008, 08:01 PM
The math he was referring too was the gear ratios for the spur and the pinion.

Nerve
12-02-2008, 09:14 AM
The math he was referring too was the gear ratios for the spur and the pinion.

Ahhh ok I gotcha.

Stock spurt should be 58T and the pinion i'm going with is 22T, divide the two equals 2.636. Now, i'm still not really sure if that means my car is going to go fast or slow or whatever... LOL :p

I just googled gear ratios and I found a car rear end gear ratio webpage and that is what it said to do.

Nerve
12-03-2008, 10:11 AM
Happy birthday today to .............. ME!

:cool:


LOL! So .. did you guys get me anything :D

alfred
12-03-2008, 10:12 AM
happy b-day man, so how old are ya. Never mind found it out, dang i feel old...lol.

Nerve
12-03-2008, 02:29 PM
happy b-day man, so how old are ya. Never mind found it out, dang i feel old...lol.

hah yeah, I had to go back into my profile and edit it to show the date so my name would show on the lower part of the webpage ... :)

alfred
12-03-2008, 02:54 PM
So did the wifey get you anything for your day man........please tell us man.

Nerve
12-04-2008, 08:42 AM
So did the wifey get you anything for your day man........please tell us man.

Just a board game for us to play at some time, $50 cash from her parents and a travel mug and some hot chocolate from her sister and boyfriend.

..and Dairy Queen ice cream cake ..mmmmm

:D

alfred
12-04-2008, 09:10 AM
So what are you going to get with your mullah.:p The cake sounds good.:D

Nerve
12-04-2008, 12:55 PM
So what are you going to get with your mullah.:p The cake sounds good.:D

Either spend it on gas or r/c parts .... :rolleyes:

If this HXT motor turns out good for the Recoil, I could see myself ordering another one.

alfred
12-04-2008, 09:42 PM
cool man..........

Nerve
12-06-2008, 11:21 AM
cool man..........

Turns out I will be spending a wee bit of it on Recoil parts.

I started to pull apart my Recoil last night and due to the 1/8th (3.17mm) Duratrax Diff balls I put in there a little while ago, it has widened the diff ball gear (SWK#6964) and now the 3mm balls pop right through the gear. Not sure how that would affect performance of the diff. But, i'm just going to order in new gears anyways.

So as a tip, make sure you use 3mm diff balls and not 1/8 (3.17mm) balls. I know "duneland" on RCtech grilled me about ordering in the balls, but I installed them anyways. Advice noted.

Also going to order in the rebuild kit due to those balls wearing the shim a bit faster then normal. There is already a solid bearing line on the shim and I have only turned the wheels by hand. Hate to see what it might look like after a race.

Russ Winn
12-19-2008, 05:48 PM
Happy birthday today to .............. ME!

:cool:


LOL! So .. did you guys get me anything :D

Happy belated birthday, man...I've been busy and haven't been here in a while. Looks like I have some catching up to do.

Nerve
12-22-2008, 05:34 PM
Ditto, been busy shopping and what not and haven't had time to do much with the recoils either.

Soooooo a small update:

Came home tonight and waiting for me was a package from Hitec!! YAY!

It was five 2.3mm x 8mm screws for the HS-65mg! It took a bit longer then I thought it would (then again it is xmas shipping season), but they came through! :D

Best part is, didnt have to pay for them @ the LHS!!!

Also, if I don't get back on this webpage ...


Have a Merry Christmas everyone and Happy and safe Holiday! :D:D

Russ Winn
12-23-2008, 12:37 PM
Merry Christmas to you, as well.

I'm pretty much done with my Recoil, and it'll go up for sale after Christmas. I have an Associated TC4 waiting under the tree, so I need to swap out the radio gear first, then the recoil will go as an RTR.

Again, Merry Christmas to you, and everyone else here at YM!!!

Nerve
12-29-2008, 08:43 AM
Merry Christmas to you, as well.

I'm pretty much done with my Recoil, and it'll go up for sale after Christmas. I have an Associated TC4 waiting under the tree, so I need to swap out the radio gear first, then the recoil will go as an RTR.

Again, Merry Christmas to you, and everyone else here at YM!!!


Awesome! Got it built yet? :p (or was it RTR?)

Well if anyone in my onroad racing club was interested in a Recoil for racing this winter, I would give them your contact info about your car. But chances are it would be on fleabay before then. :)

As for my Recoils, mine is back together again and tweaking it still before racing starts up.

My gf's car I worked on last night getting the servo to work with the recoil linkages etc. I do have photos of what I came across and will update my posting later on tonight.

Nerve
12-29-2008, 11:01 PM
So now im updating my progress here,

I had installed the Associated #21049 servo saver kit onto the HS-65mg servo in my gf's Recoil and after some testing around my house tonight I have since removed it and gone with a direct horn to servo setup now. I would be curious to see that other member on Rctech on how he got his to work. The servo fits perfectly and its fast and strong, but linkages seem tricky.

So I wasn't pleased with what I was getting out of it and as far as I know I wasn't doing something wrong with the setup. So, simple setup it will have to be and hopefully she doesn't break the servo on me.. hah.

Photos can be seen here:
http://www.yourmicro.com/forums/showpost.php?p=202372&postcount=54

(saves me on reposting)


I will have to take some completed photos if I finish them tomorrow. I just need to get my 6 battery packs shrink wrapped and they should be ok to go. I just hope they hold a charge come morning.


My new bodies have been painted (by owner of LHS) so stay tuned for those!

Russ Winn
12-30-2008, 06:51 AM
My TC4 is an RTR...I looked at the new TC5, but I didn't want a belt drive car. I swapped out the radio gear to my Futaba, and it comes with a LRP esc, and a decent Reedy stock motor. The first run was pretty impressive, and will only require some minor suspension tweaking.
I put the Associated XP2 radio in the Recoil, and threw in a battery pack to sell it as a RTR (see my post in "for sale"). I liked the car, but it wasn't what I really had in mind when I bought it. If I don't get any takers on Ebay, I may consider selling it as a roller, instead.

I had some linkage issues when I installed the servo in the Recoil, as well. The design is a bear to work with, and I ended up going with some Dubro ball links and turnbuckle. Only some slight trimming was needed, and the problem was solved.

Nerve
12-30-2008, 11:12 AM
I had some linkage issues when I installed the servo in the Recoil, as well. The design is a bear to work with, and I ended up going with some Dubro ball links and turnbuckle. Only some slight trimming was needed, and the problem was solved.

Overall I dont mind the Recoils, but I would have to agree with you on the steering. I found that the only way to really set it up, is to have it almost 100% assembled and "fiddle" with it to get where I want it. Which means disassembling and redoing it over and over again.

I try and keep the servo horn 90* (ish) to the servo and have lined up the steeering arms to centre with the chassis and try to have a bit of degree of toe-out as well. But I think I need to work on the steering a bit more tho. I can do burn out spinouts in one turned direction (from dead stop), but can't spin out in the opposite. Leads me to believe that the car turns tighter in one direction vs equal.

I did look back on your posting, but with the photo you provided didn't really show too much in the way of a setup. But I know the best way to do that would be to rip out the front diff.. LOL.

Russ Winn
12-30-2008, 04:55 PM
I pretty much had to set mine up the way you do. But in order to get the linkage to attach to the servo horn at 90*, I had to use new linkage. The included stock link was way too short. Dubro makes some ball ends with 2/56 balls and 4/40 rods. I went with those and a 4/40 turnbuckle.

I do have to agree, that you really need to have it close when you install the linkage. Otherwise, you have to keep taking it apart to get it right. My radio helped in setting up, as well. I set the trim to neutral and the throw to max, both ways. Then after fine tuning the trim, I cut back on the throw, until it turned equally, both directions.

BTW, I just picked up a new body for the TC4. Look for pics, soon. :D

Nerve
12-30-2008, 05:52 PM
I pretty much had to set mine up the way you do. But in order to get the linkage to attach to the servo horn at 90*, I had to use new linkage. The included stock link was way too short. Dubro makes some ball ends with 2/56 balls and 4/40 rods. I went with those and a 4/40 turnbuckle.

I do have to agree, that you really need to have it close when you install the linkage. Otherwise, you have to keep taking it apart to get it right. My radio helped in setting up, as well. I set the trim to neutral and the throw to max, both ways. Then after fine tuning the trim, I cut back on the throw, until it turned equally, both directions.

BTW, I just picked up a new body for the TC4. Look for pics, soon. :D


Ok, so then it sounds like im on the right track to setting up this car somewhat properly then.

Oh yah, the HS55 has the motor gear shaft on the outside edge of the chassis (to the right side).

Throw, i guess you mean the EPA's? I'm setting my gf's car on a DX2.0 and mine on a Dx3r. I would like to get the car as close to straight as possible and then minor adjust on controller as needed.

Hmm i know I have some leftover 4-40 rod from my crawler rebuild.. hmmm.

Russ Winn
12-31-2008, 07:49 AM
Yeah, I meant EPA. I use a Futaba 2PL, and I started with full range both ways, then cut back on the direction it turned sharpest...The bear was getting the servo saver as close to 90* as possible.

Russ Winn
01-01-2009, 01:47 PM
Check out my thread under "General RC"....

Nerve
01-02-2009, 08:18 AM
Yeah, I meant EPA. I use a Futaba 2PL, and I started with full range both ways, then cut back on the direction it turned sharpest...The bear was getting the servo saver as close to 90* as possible.

Hmmm, yeah ok so im still setting it up the same way as others are..lol.

I think I need to move my servo saver a bit to the left, which should then give me more turn to the right (which is where its lacking slightly).

I also found out, don't try and tune camber with old tires. I put new tires onto my gf's car (to replace the cheapo rubbers obviously) and I had the "tires that came with my car when I bought it" and well, they are worn and I thought they would be ok.

I put the new tires on and without changing any of my settings, they were "almost" identical in camber. Basically I put the chassis on a flat piece of wood and then look straight on @ the front end and compare the "under tire" room of both sides. I look for a bit of "space" on the outer edge of the front tires for a camber setting.

I also compare the outer edge of the inner threaded ball end surface of all 4 linkages using my digital caliper. So all 4 should be within a few .XX mm's of one another. Then use a camber gauge from RPM to check degree.



Then tear my hair out thinking that I spent way too much time trying to set it up perfetly .... :p:p

Russ Winn
01-02-2009, 10:06 AM
If you're using a caliper on the ball links, you should be plenty close on the settings. I only use a carpenters square on a glass table to get mine at 0*.

Nerve
01-02-2009, 04:39 PM
If you're using a caliper on the ball links, you should be plenty close on the settings. I only use a carpenters square on a glass table to get mine at 0*.

Downside is, I dont really know where those settings are exactly. I know HPI or Axial would have provided "make the link this long" information.

Hmm, I guess I could go back to my gf's car as reference. I believe I did jot down the overall lengths of them upon first receiving the car.

Yeah I was using a digital caliper for my crawler builds and well, just about everything I have done w/ r/c so far.... ROFL!

Nerve
01-04-2009, 10:16 PM
Hey all, as I said ... stay tuned for my new paint jobs.

They were done by the crew @ The Zoom Room in Newmarket (local to me)
www.thezoomroom.ca

Onto the photos!


http://inlinethumb15.webshots.com/42958/2789508230089991763S600x600Q85.jpg (http://good-times.webshots.com/photo/2789508230089991763WoEMDk)


http://inlinethumb46.webshots.com/43053/2206382970089991763S600x600Q85.jpg (http://good-times.webshots.com/photo/2206382970089991763JLOJGH)


http://inlinethumb60.webshots.com/43003/2913634350089991763S600x600Q85.jpg (http://good-times.webshots.com/photo/2913634350089991763ycQDzB)


http://inlinethumb40.webshots.com/39/2875806300089991763S600x600Q85.jpg (http://good-times.webshots.com/photo/2875806300089991763JPgjcI)


and this would be my girlfriends lid ... :D

http://inlinethumb18.webshots.com/16209/2639367120089991763S600x600Q85.jpg (http://good-times.webshots.com/photo/2639367120089991763RUlkyj)


http://inlinethumb21.webshots.com/23316/2347150800089991763S600x600Q85.jpg (http://good-times.webshots.com/photo/2347150800089991763ylrjHH)


http://inlinethumb16.webshots.com/44047/2370954350089991763S600x600Q85.jpg (http://good-times.webshots.com/photo/2370954350089991763XwLlYi)


http://inlinethumb15.webshots.com/42382/2331856430089991763S600x600Q85.jpg (http://good-times.webshots.com/photo/2331856430089991763NjFdxH)


http://inlinethumb56.webshots.com/38071/2693543720089991763S600x600Q85.jpg (http://good-times.webshots.com/photo/2693543720089991763OPrTTe)


I just snapped these on my bed tonight (a few minutes ago). So I will have to take some more photos when they are mounted and stickerized as well.

Anyhoo, hope you like!

Nerve
01-05-2009, 04:51 PM
Ok so I have about a half hour here @ work and i'm going to kill some time typing up this lil blurb about my Recoil test.

Some concerns:

1) traction "barrel" rolling
2) motor and pinion
3) servo

Ok, so first issue,

There would be one part of the course I would almost routinely roll the chassis multiple times if on the throttle too much. If I feather it, then it would snake around and do ok. Other corners, didnt have that issue.

I believe (from memory) that traction rolling means too stiff of a shock setting or to thick of an oil. I think i have 45w in the front and 40w in rear. Possibly change to 40w to correct. I will try and research it a bit more when I get home.

Keep it mind, I'am using copper vcs 1/10 springs all around, but they are NOT 50% cut like Duneland on Rctech mentioned to do. They are maybe 60% of a complete spring (approx).



Second issue,

Motor and pinion combo (HXT4400kv and 22T Losi Pinion). Great combo together, worked very smooth quick to get up to speed, good on straights. But overall, not all that quick for the size of our track.

Now, keeping in mind I was also testing out freshly home build Elite 1500 nimhs and they are probably not up to full potential yet OR I possibly left the soldering iron on them for too long and may have damaged a cell or two. So a comfirmed battery source could be culprit behind the motor not being "peppy".

I was given a 9T and 10T Micro pinion to test out, honestly. Not much difference noticed in speed. So I will attempt putting in my Tekin 8.1KV motor I have as a backup (still in package) and seeing if I have a 9T Micro pinion to test out with next time.



Third issue,

JR 285mg on the track our size worked perfectly. It isnt too slow for the track btw Kavvika. I know if your servo thread you mentioned it wouldn't be good for tight and twisty. I felt that it was pretty good.

Now it did turn very tight @ times. But I know my toe is set somewhat out right now and I have now clue on actual # of degrees out. But the upper tie rods are set to the exact same size.

Now as per a recommendation from another member of my club, to swap out my servo for a larger one.

He said he managed to fit the Spektrum 590m (JR Z590m), with a bit of work and sanding it will fit. Also will use the stock recoil servo saver. He said that a larger servo will take the abuse vs my small wimpy JR servo.

Will it take it? Who knows? I don't know. Only time would tell and racing will tell the story.

I dont really want to switch out the servo again, but I think I will swap motors for the time being to see if it gets my car a bit more speed.

Russ Winn
01-05-2009, 06:45 PM
Cool looking bodies, Nerve...LMAO at the cow:D !!!

Nerve
02-02-2009, 08:24 AM
NRCC 1/12 & 1/14th Qualifier video:

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=B7HOCn6NnZM


Finally! Some video of my car. :)

Nerve
02-23-2009, 12:57 PM
Well, since the Recoil scene on here has quieted down, I figured I would at least post some kind of update.

Still running the same 4400kv motor, but running a 21T pinion (due to the set screw hole screwing up on my 22T pinion).

I fiddled around w/ the setup of my car and I think I finally have it somewhat more "dialed in". I changed the front shock oil to 40wt (rear is same). I ended up putting the stock yellow springs on in place of the cut down Copper springs that were on there from previous. I also put some silver springs on the rear. Unsure of what they are, but they came with the chassis.

Needless to say, I was still able to roll it, but it was far less frequent then before. It looked like it was sticking to the track a bit better and the shocks were actually doing something.

This past saturday we run our race nights and I was just working on the car that afternoon. Everything was setup correct as far as I know, but once on the track that was a different story. In my first lap of qualifiers I could hear a "pinion / spur " grinding noise and well it didn't sound good. So I ran it anyways .... :D

Once I finished one lap, and a bit... that was it, no more go. So the car was pulled and took a look at the spur gear, yep it was munched. I still had a bit of the original size of spur towards the rear of the gear, but otherwise it was clean shaven all around.

Well, that didnt stop me. I ended up smushing the motor closer to the spur gear, bench tested it, it ran on the bench, so why not run it. This would be why buying spares of something would be a good thing... HAH. So anyways, I ran the rest of the night on about 1/4th the size of spur it originally was. I personally think it ran BETTER!

I completely lost the qualifier, but won the 1st heat by a long shot. Not sure how I ended up in the mains. :)


Complete side note - Anyone know how to hookup a crash sensor pad to a "cow" noise box ..? Basically I'am looking for something that goes "moo" but I want it to be a pad so that when my gf crashes into something the car goes .... MOOO.

:D

Nerve
03-16-2009, 04:36 PM
One month almost later update...

Back to using the Tekin 8100kv motor I received from Tekin recently. Appears to be a lot peppier then the first "labelled wrong" motor I had bought originally. It does seem to be quicker vs the 4400kv motor I had in there previously as well. Plus I'am only using a 10T pinion, my 9T has chips on the teeth.

I also found out that the 4400kv motor does NOT properly fit into a T.O Big Block blue motor plate......:p DOH! Or my Micro would be running that!


Last weekend I plowed full force into a "disc" that we use on the course and ending up popping out the lower control arm on the right side from the hinge pin. But get this, BOTH front and read hinge pins stayed intact ! :eek:

So I just pulled the front diff out to slide the control arm back in and kept on racing the rest of the night. But I was taking it a whole lot easier on the track the next 2 races.. haha.

So far I have only munched 1 spur gear between two Recoils. I'am currently using my gf's spur gear until a replacement comes this Thurs/Fri. Now if I could get just the car to stay on the ground the whole time..heh.

Nerve
04-10-2009, 04:00 PM
Alrighty, time for a 1st season of racing Recoils wrap up post.

If I didn't end up in 1st place, then I was very close to catching up to the first place driver. I know the points standings were very close between the two of us going into the last few weekends of racing. The only reason the other driver was in first place, was by me going snowboarding a couple of Saturdays during the winter. So I had missed about 1-2 race days.

Granted, there were only four drivers that started the Recoil class season. Myself, my girlfriend and "Andy" and "Gord". Gord was the driver that was currently in 1st place as of the final day. Andy made it out for a majority of the days, but only raced his Recoil on occasion. My girlfriend would only be attending if she wasnt working Saturday evening or didn't have other plans with her friends etc.

In relation to the points standings, basically the # of laps you run equals the number of points you get. So if you ran 15 laps, 15 points.

Gord I believe had around 320 points as of the final days and I was sitting around say 280-290 points. Andy was sitting in the middle around say 150 - 180 pts range and i'm fairly certain that my girlfriend only had around 80 - 90 points.

Towards the end of the season I finally got the Recoil dialed in to where it would not traction roll on me and it could handle the higher speeds without worry. Typically I was doing around 19-20 laps on average. But by the end of the race season, I was starting to push 25 laps in a 5 minute heat. I did end up posting a 26 lap race about two weeks ago! WOOT!

April 25th is the final meeting and some trophies will be given out to the kids and possibly to the older kids.

:D



My final specs:

Recoil Pro Chassis
40wt oil front
40wt oil rear
Red VCS custom springs front
Silver springs rear
Tekin 8100KV Brushless
Castle Creations Sidewinder Micro
JR DS285MG Servo (see Kav, it did last the season!)
Stock servo saver
10T HPI metal pinion
Stock Spur
ACER Racing tungsten carbide 3mm diff balls
Team Associated stealth diff lube #6591
4 degree caster blocks front
-1 degree camber front
-1 degree camber rear
Toe IN/OUT - Unknown (kept it close to stock)
Purple foams front
Magenta foams Rear

NOTES: Front springs changed from VCS cut copper, to stock yellow and eventually changed to VCS Reds. Front shocks had 45wt oil to start as well. Mid to late season I changed to 40wt. The rear shocks I think I only changed them out once for the silver springs from coppers. Which I believe are "front" RTR Recoil stock springs to be honest. Camber was changed from -2 to -1 degree late in the season. Motor changed from HXT-4400kv & 22T pinion to above once Tekin motor was returned.


Girlfriends specs:

Recoil Pro Chassis
45wt oil front
40wt oil rear
Stock yellow springs front
Stock yellow springs rear
Castle Creations 6800KV Brushless
Castle Creations Sidewinder Micro
Hitec HS-65MG (w/o servo saver)
Stock spur
Pinion - Can't remember (9 or 10)
ACER Racing tungsten carbide 3mm diff balls
Team Associated stealth diff lube #6591
6 degree caster blocks
-2 camber front
-2 camber rear
Toe IN/OUT - stock
Purple foams front
Magenta foams rear


Basically her car stayed exactly the same as I built it. Except for receiving a new spur gear recently when I needed a new spur for my car.

I will try and update this post after April 25th with final numbers. Unless of course the club posts the information on their webpage sooner.

Here is a recent photo of us "on the line" waiting to start from our clubs webpage. Gord is standing right beside me. That is me on the end in the burnt orange sweater. My Recoil is on the left front.:cool:

http://rc-club.com/images/stories/LINEB.jpg


I hope to race it again next season. I had a good time racing it. But we do need to get more numbers out there.

frizzo
04-13-2009, 12:27 AM
Hi, new member here, I am in So Cal and I just bought a recoil pro from Amain. I have not raced RC in a while, so I am not that familiar with brushless motors. Did the hxt motor work okay? I am looking to put this together without spending too much money. Sorry if I am asking something that has already been covered.

Sadly, we do not have any indoor tracks in our area, probably because the weather does not require them.

-Oops, I found the info about the motor.-

Nerve
04-17-2009, 10:10 PM
Hi, new member here, I am in So Cal and I just bought a recoil pro from Amain. I have not raced RC in a while, so I am not that familiar with brushless motors. Did the hxt motor work okay? I am looking to put this together without spending too much money. Sorry if I am asking something that has already been covered.

Sadly, we do not have any indoor tracks in our area, probably because the weather does not require them.

-Oops, I found the info about the motor.-


Heya Frizzo, welcome to the site.

Amain still has the best price for a Recoil. Even with shipping and conversion it is probably still cheaper then buying one up here... HA.

Brushless motors are the way to go for onroad racing. The HXT motor did just fine. I did have no issues with it, but I just wasnt finding the motor "up to par" and felt that more speed could be obtained by upping the KV and dropping the pinion to a 9 or 10T. But it did fine to get me started and for the price you can't go wrong! ROFL!

I guess it is nice all winter long there then. Up here there are lots of winter indoor leagues. We need something to do to pass the time... LOL.

When you get a chance, start up your own thread and post up some photos of your Recoil and any mods you do it it. :D

I hope to race mine again next season!

frizzo
05-06-2009, 02:49 AM
http://img16.imageshack.us/img16/6857/dsc02733hde.jpgI do not take enough pictures to warrant my own build thread...

But searching the net i do not find many folks racing these cars on asphault, I did my first and found that the rubber tires were working much better than the foams, and would like to hear of any lurkers that have used theirs on asphault tracks as well. I am running a full stock 'splashett" with a brushless mamba 8k. So far the it seems a bit tailhappy. It is fast as hell with that combo, but I am not sure wether to use softer springs in the rear or stiffer in the front.

I am also a bit worried about the avaliablitiy of replacment parts in the future.
http://img16.imageshack.us/img16/239/dsc02722snw.jpg

Nerve
08-19-2009, 12:38 PM
Well, sorry for the really really old update/reply Frizzo. But its been a few months since I was last on this webpage. Indoor racing is afterall, a winter sport for me (and the girlfriend). So when I start to get back into winter driving, I jump onto this webpage.

Nice lookin ride however. I love the gold on it.:cool:

We race on an indoor carpet setup and mine have never touched pavement. I played around with my setup all season long and I believe I have my current setup still listed above in this same thread. I know I used a setup that I found on RcTech.net for my car and they tweaked what I felt needing tweaking.

My car currently has a Dynamite 9200kv & Sidewinder setup. Haven't ran it yet, so it is untested. But I found a really good deal on Fleabay from a guy in the UK for about $50 less then LHS's in my area. I also will be ordering in some new 1500 6 cell packs from cbp.com in time for winter racing season to begin again.

I'am also looking to upgrade my servo with a faster one. Which means its off to Kav's thread and re-read on what servos fit the 'coil! :D

Nerve
11-01-2009, 10:32 AM
Well that just sucks......


I just found out that there might not be a Recoil race class this year with our indoor club due to lack of people running Recoils (2-4) and of course that the car is discontinued and parts are hard to get etc etc.

Same goes for the micro class. There were only 2-4 people running it so they are going to scrap that class as well. I was considering re-entering the class, since I have brushless now. But I would rather run an M18 over my RS4 tho.


Now, apparently there is going to be some new class that is added to the roster. Details on what that is will be found out in the next few weeks.

Otherwise, the only current running classes are 1:10 touring and Tamiya M chassis and 1:12 pan car (unless the pan car is scrapped also).


NOw, do I really want to reinvest in a new/used 1:10 / M chassis to race again this year?? When i'm not working and currently in college for the next 3 years. Maybe someone will "donate" me one..hah.


Another downside, I just finished ordering in 4 brand new 6 cell nimh packs from cheapbatterypacks.com to use in the Recoils this year. Now what?! Now I have like $80 worth of paper weights.. :p

S'ok i'll figure something out.

alfred
11-01-2009, 10:54 AM
Now that sucks man.....sorry to hear. Wish i could help you out in that department.:(

jcr
11-01-2009, 08:01 PM
yeah man that sucks.... but then again I was kind of ready for that cancellation.... that's why I was testing out my 1/10 at the end of last season :p

Guess I won't be running my Micro this winter..... maybe continue to sell off my Micro stuff... still have two chassis left.

I think the 1/12 will be dead too..... only 3 people last year.

Mini would be an interesting class to get into.... trying to find one of those. But besides that my 1/10 touring is ready!

alfred
11-01-2009, 08:13 PM
Cool what do you plan on running.:D

jcr
11-01-2009, 09:34 PM
Got an old Tamiya TA04-R which has been performing very well since 2003 :D Seems like I've found a setup I can run (double one-ways!!). But I just recently picked up a graphite chassis for my TA04 and I've finished converting the car over today. Just by picking it up as is seems very solid! Can't feel any flexing :) But the car is around 20grams heavier :confused: Now hopefully it doesn't change the drive characteristics too much.

Nerve
11-08-2009, 05:23 PM
Well, I still have both of my micros.

Kind of reluctant to sell them off. One has a prototype Penguin chassis it in (rare). But in reality, it really shouldnt be on a track due to the design over the current production version (stonger/better).

So for now, im hanging onto them. I have considered selling off my HPI Savage a few times over, but havent' dealt it yet. So I have the cars to sell if I wanted to put the money towards something new to race.


Well, when that meeting finally happens, we will see what classes are leftover and what new ones get voted in. Just have to wait and see. But I could see the 1/12 going as well. I think Henry's pan car is on his webpage for sale for $150. So if 1/12 hung around, I might just be interested in his old car.

Started with 1/18, moved to 1/14, next 1/12...haha. :D

Actually, racing is going to start up when 2nd Semester starts and I think it is going to be tougher then what im going through right now. So chances are I won't even be running this year (next year?). Save my $$ for TTC tokens and gas and books.

However, I do still want to get out w/ my Recoil to run it with the new motor that I now wasted the coin on.

jcr
11-08-2009, 08:55 PM
I say just get into 1/10 instead of going from 1/18 to 1/14 to 1/12 :P I still prefer 1/10 because there is more to tuning it. My objective is to try and keep up with the A-Main guys with my 6 year old chassis :D

Where are you going to school and what are you taking?

I'm out of school well doing some masters stuff and still can't find enough time to run my RC at the track.... well NewMarket is kind of far for me too.

Nerve
11-18-2009, 11:08 AM
HAH ... yeah, 1/10 is probably the way to go. At least it would be one class that "might" not be discontinued in the club.

Yeah I tried to do that with my wheely king axles and crawling over the summer time (to try and beat the ax10 guys). Didn't work out tho.

George Brown Casa Loma campus for HVAC/R. Three year tech program.

Yeah, im only a half hour away from Newmarket and I still find it is out of the way even when I have the time..hah. I would like to run, but normally I end up doing some catch-up on them instead.


I say just get into 1/10 instead of going from 1/18 to 1/14 to 1/12 :P I still prefer 1/10 because there is more to tuning it. My objective is to try and keep up with the A-Main guys with my 6 year old chassis :D

Where are you going to school and what are you taking?

I'm out of school well doing some masters stuff and still can't find enough time to run my RC at the track.... well NewMarket is kind of far for me too.

jcr
11-18-2009, 05:24 PM
HAH ... yeah, 1/10 is probably the way to go. At least it would be one class that "might" not be discontinued in the club.

Yeah I tried to do that with my wheely king axles and crawling over the summer time (to try and beat the ax10 guys). Didn't work out tho.

George Brown Casa Loma campus for HVAC/R. Three year tech program.

Yeah, im only a half hour away from Newmarket and I still find it is out of the way even when I have the time..hah. I would like to run, but normally I end up doing some catch-up on them instead.

Last year my TA04R was keeping up with most of them during practices. Probably going to race it this year. And I'm looking into getting a Tamiya Mini chassis used. Seems like $70-80 you can find one.

Well at least it sounds like you're in a decent tech program. There will always be needs for the HVAC trades work.

Any words on when the season going to start and the rules? Did you go to the meeting?