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View Full Version : traxxas slipper pegs -- jb weld


golgi
03-23-2004, 02:23 PM
Well, I'm still diggin this TLT-1 but I've noticed one minor problem after having it for several weeks. I had locked the center diff with the Traxxas Friction Pegs and so far it had worked very well. Then I got rid of the stock Tamiya battery and converted over to a saddle pack with 3 up front and 3 in the back. When I first put the pack in, the truck would still wheelie if I quickly squeezed the throttle all the way off the line. But after having done some outdoor climbing, I'm noticing that when I try to pop a wheelie, the center diff just slips a little and no longer pulls off a wheelie.

This wouldn't be too big a deal but now I've noticed when crawling over obstacles, sometimes the center diff will slip. So a warning to those of you who are just putting your TLT-1 together. It may be a good idea to just jb weld the diff like someone suggested because it would be better for rock climbing.

SofaSloth
03-24-2004, 11:49 PM
Originally posted by golgi
Well, I'm still diggin this TLT-1 but I've noticed one minor problem after having it for several weeks. I had locked the center diff with the Traxxas Friction Pegs and so far it had worked very well. Then I got rid of the stock Tamiya battery and converted over to a saddle pack with 3 up front and 3 in the back. When I first put the pack in, the truck would still wheelie if I quickly squeezed the throttle all the way off the line. But after having done some outdoor climbing, I'm noticing that when I try to pop a wheelie, the center diff just slips a little and no longer pulls off a wheelie.

This wouldn't be too big a deal but now I've noticed when crawling over obstacles, sometimes the center diff will slip. So a warning to those of you who are just putting your TLT-1 together. It may be a good idea to just jb weld the diff like someone suggested because it would be better for rock climbing.

I did my maiden run tonight, and my diff slipped beyond belief. I had locked it TIGHT (snapped my screw the first time I tried). I used slipper pegs and NO grease, and about 20 seconds into the run, it started to slip, and loosened up so bad it has to spool up and get going slowly. If I hit something now, it just sits and spins rather than climbing over it.

Now I have to tear it down and rebuild the diff with JB weld.

I will say that with an Orion stock motor and kit gearing, before the diff slipped this thing had POWER and SPEED!

BloodClod
03-25-2004, 12:49 AM
I've been using rubber washers from the plumbing section at the DIY store for quite a while now and it's still working great. Remove the diff plates and the balls and replace with the washers. Oh... took the thrust bearing out too and tightened the whole thing down.

You could try that. :)

SofaSloth
03-25-2004, 07:23 AM
Originally posted by BloodClod
I've been using rubber washers from the plumbing section at the DIY store for quite a while now and it's still working great. Remove the diff plates and the balls and replace with the washers. Oh... took the thrust bearing out too and tightened the whole thing down.

You could try that. :)

I did take out the thrust bearing (had to because when I snapped that screw it took off about the same length that had to go through the bearing anyways.

Rubber washers, like the ones you use for hoses? That sounds like an option.

golgi
03-25-2004, 08:28 AM
I like that rubber washer idea also. I think I'll give it a go this weekend when I'm working on my truck. So they are the ones used at the end of a garden hose where you screw on the sprinkler head?

BloodClod
03-25-2004, 09:52 AM
exactly! I found one of the right diameter. It was a tad thick so I used a sharp knife to slice it down the middle. Then the 2 halves were thin enough to use in the diff.

SofaSloth
03-29-2004, 08:56 PM
I haven't been able to get to the store, so last night I tore down my diff and locked it with CA. I used thin CA and a CA gel. I should have waited longer between applications, because nearly 24 hours later it has not cured 100%. The gel is slightly moist still.

BUT, that diff is locked tight forever. AND, to make sure, I'll mix up my jbweld and use a little on there too. I'll use just JBweld on the diff for TLT-1 #2 (hope to start building it this week).

ltz400
03-30-2004, 06:30 PM
I used CA glue on mine after having problems with the pegs and just trying to tighten the sh*t out of it.Took my chances with the CA and filled it all up around the inner part of the diff.I then sprayed it with CA accelerator now its a done deal- i'll never have to take it apart agin because it AINT comin' apart

SofaSloth
03-30-2004, 07:09 PM
I'll use a little CA on the next one, but will fill it with JBWeld. That stuff worked GREAT. Tough as nails now. So what if it's permanent, I don't want to have to pull this apart again to adjust that diff.

CA will help me hold the little things together while I apply the JBWeld.

jade's dad
04-05-2004, 06:27 AM
this is about as locked as it'll ever get...HAHAHA....

jocktheglide
05-01-2004, 11:40 AM
what is jb weld and how do you lock the center diff?

blazinmicro
05-29-2004, 06:24 PM
When i used CA in my diff with kicker i drove it around for a while and it was fine, but i drove it hard and finaly it gave and the CA cracked into like a million peices. So last night i drilled 2 holes through the entired diff assembly and threaded 2 screws through it and now it should stay locked!:D

Wookie
06-12-2004, 02:05 AM
Or you could just use my method.

JB Weld the center differential and hold it together with two 4-40 screws and nuts. :D

jocktheglide
06-16-2004, 11:50 AM
uhhh...is JB weld some metal stuff and you have to actually weld it to meld it?

Wookie
06-16-2004, 01:20 PM
jocktheglide,

JB Weld is a very high tensil strength bonding agent (glue :D ), which basically means it's strong. Also it's not as brittle as Epoxy is so it's much less likely to shatter like Epoxy can.

You can pick it up at a lot of hobby shops, local NAPA stores or other hardware stores should carry it.

It's similar to epoxy in that you have two tubes and you have to mix it together before applying it to a part.

What I did is drilled out a little of the outdrive to that I could squeeze some 4-40 screws into the differential. I then used a 4-40 bolt to lock down the screw. I used short enough screws so that they wouldn't interfere with the bearings on either side.

When I reassembled the differential I put a bunch of JB-Weld in the area between the two outdrives on the differential gear (enough that when I assembled the differentials it squeezed a little out the sides). I then re-assembled the differential with the JB-Weld in the middle of it. After it was assembled I put my two screws into the differential to clamp it down and make sure it wouldn't ever come apart again.

You have to let it cure for 16 hours so it's best to do it in the evening, then let it sit overnight and through the next work day. After that it should be ready to go.

I don't have any pictures and to get some would require tearing my TLT apart, which I really don't feel like doing at this time. You can search the forum for "locking differentials" or something like that and you should be able to find a post with some pictures (I've seen them here) that show pictures on how to lock it with screws.

Hope this helps some.

jocktheglide
06-16-2004, 05:43 PM
yeah, man that helped out a lot man I think I might do that to my tlt now. Darn center diff!!!:D

Bakedmopar
06-16-2004, 11:50 PM
I remember someone here is using a gear diff and I would like to know how it works and what is the part number? It is a gear diff for the TAO4 i believe.


Thanks in advance.

golgi
06-17-2004, 08:10 AM
just a quick update for you all, since I last tightened the diff in my tlt-1 with slipperpegs which has been over 2 months ago, it has not loosened up at all. So I think basically it loosens up a little after you first install but then if you tighten it up after that, it's good to go. Just thought I'd mention it as an alternative to tearing the truck apart and doing some other method of locking the diff.