yokomo truggy... first test

[jaejw1]

well first i tested out 2 motors...
the gh4700 with 16/45 gearing
the gh3600 with 19/45 gearing
well the gh3600 came out on top.. much faster and cooler than the gh4700

landing,jumping,roughness...
the truggy handled everything well.. my only complaints.. those damn droop limiters.. these things are great for carpet racers but for those wanting to go real offroading,, you need the droop limiters cut off.. that way if a section of the track is a lil too rough then the front end wont face plant into anything.. also it will help keep front end traction to the ground when you are shooting down the straights..
the shock oil will need to be changed to something a lil heavier... also there is a section of the track where the buggy had a hard time goin over.. i would have to punch it so the front wheels would be slightly lifted to prevent any froward flips..

tires/wheels...
they worked out great.. good clearance. and looked every bit the part.. only problem there isnt a great deal of usable traction at certain points of the track,, i will have to treat these tires for sure.. i hope proline comes out with some truggy crime fighters.. then that would be great..

servo of choice is the hitec 625mg..

overall i love this lil thing... not as much as the buggy... but i did spend 2 months of continuos practice and trying different things out before i mastered the performance of the car.. and i think this truggy will need less time but will still need some time on the track to perfect everything

i will provide pics later on tonight

[alfred]

Good review on it man......i can see now that you will have plans for this pup.

[jaejw1]

here are a ffew pics.. pics arent downloading.. i will try later..

[jaejw1]

http://image.rcuniverse.com/forum/upfiles/158831/Ca80883.jpg

http://image.rcuniverse.com/forum/upfiles/158831/Je10970.jpg

http://image.rcuniverse.com/forum/upfiles/158831/Mr41924.jpg

[jaejw1]

did more testing today..
cut off the droop limiters
added 100wt shock oil front and back
rear bottom shock mount inside
sprayed tires with wd40

holy crap.. i loved driving this thing... so much better than the buggy.. they both have their place in racing.. the truggy to handle the rough stuff and the buggy is the track is smooth a fast...

cutting off the droop limiters allowed the buggy to still have some steering while WOT down the back straight and also keeping the fornt tires touching while going over the mine field... never once did the truggy nose dive into any of the bumps..

the buggy flew and landed better today than yesterday... it didnt thump as hard upon landing and landing from certain heights made just a slight noise unlike the buggy,,,

tire grip was improved.. it slid when i needed it to and kept a perfect line when needed.. i still wish i could have some crime fighters made then this thing would be perfect..

im going to give the buggy a lil rest for now so i can master the truggy..

i also let a sponsored driver handle the controls.. and they loved it.. a lil harder to drive than the buggy but still tons of fun.. it actuall was able to keep up with a mod buggy from the back straight and through the sweeper (the sweeper is where the minefield is)

[alfred]

So what are your plans for the buggy....do you plan on doing any motor and electronics upgrades.

[jaejw1]

So what are your plans for the buggy....do you plan on doing any motor and electronics upgrades.

im planning on racing it.. im keeping the motor that is in there now.. the gh3600 which is more than enough and handles the truggy very very well..

[jaejw1]

put it this way.. the way the current track condition is now.. the truggy would smoke the buggy.. so i will be keeping both and running them based on track conditions..

i havent been able to get videos of it but for those that dont know... this things drives JUST like ,, and looks just like a 8th scale truggy.. and this is coming from someone that races them not myself.. it is just too fun to drive..

and it doesnt have the same problems as the detta.. the only bad thing at the moment is .. no parts

[dway]

I found a shop in Europe that has parts and is willing to ship to the U.S. - but they said that shipping would be $23. Also, the exchange rate between the Euro and the dollar sucks, so parts are very expensive. A pair of arms would be about $12 - steel universals for the ST would be about $55 per pair. :eek: I emailed the shop where we got the the trucks from and they are telling me that they should have parts available early Feb. I just hope they have a cheaper shipping method than the EMS mail.

[jaejw1]

well since i snapped one of the cvd's im planning on making my own.. by cutting the dog bone to the rc18t and then cutting the truggy cvd and using an alum tube from K&S on towerhobbies i can put the halfs in the tube (which would be filled with thick CA glue) set to correct legnth 72mm and then let dry

[jaejw1]

I found a shop in Europe that has parts and is willing to ship to the U.S. - but they said that shipping would be $23. Also, the exchange rate between the Euro and the dollar sucks, so parts are very expensive. A pair of arms would be about $12 - steel universals for the ST would be about $55 per pair. :eek: I emailed the shop where we got the the trucks from and they are telling me that they should have parts available early Feb. I just hope they have a cheaper shipping method than the EMS mail.

that would be 55+55,,,, +29+29,,,+23 just to have steel cvd's and ball diffs..lol.. almost 200 bux.. hell

[alfred]

Instead of using CA glue you really might consider JB Weld, its some good stuff and will last way, way longer then CA.

[dway]

that would be 55+55,,,, +29+29,,,+23 just to have steel cvd's and ball diffs..lol.. almost 200 bux.. hell

I just hope they are a little cheaper from Japan. I got the last 2 ball diffs that tower had in stock, so now I just need the universals. I don't mind paying the high shipping if I can stock up on spare parts too and get them all at the same time. I live in Illinois, so if I order parts from tower hobbies (when they get them) I get hit with the shipping plus sales tax, so the higher shipping from Japan doesn't seem quite as bad since I don't have to pay tax. I ended up paying $14 for tax and shipping for the diffs and swaybars for both ends, so $23-$25 for shipping isn't too much higher.

[jaejw1]

I might just have to buy those cvd's for now,,, only if I cant make my own,,,,,,


this thing is so sweet to drive

[dway]

Here is a link to the cvd's at the shop that said they would ship to the U.S.
http://www.hpi-shop.at/pd1417618552.htm?categoryId=198
I did the conversion and 39.90 Euro comes to $51.54 per pair. They said shipping would be 18 Euro or $23.25. I saw picture on another site and they appear to be steel, but you may want to ask just to be sure though. Maria Ringerthaler is the name of the person that replied to my email. She said to contact her if I had any more questions. Here is her email address office@modellbau-schenk.at

[jaejw1]

Here is a link to the cvd's at the shop that said they would ship to the U.S.
http://www.hpi-shop.at/pd1417618552.htm?categoryId=198
I did the conversion and 39.90 Euro comes to $51.54 per pair. They said shipping would be 18 Euro or $23.25. I saw picture on another site and they appear to be steel, but you may want to ask just to be sure though. Maria Ringerthaler is the name of the person that replied to my email. She said to contact her if I had any more questions. Here is her email address office@modellbau-schenk.at
did you save the pic.. or know where i could see it.. i might have to follow this inorder to fix it but not sure if it can withstand the torque from the bl motor

[dway]

did you save the pic.. or know where i could see it.. i might have to follow this inorder to fix it but not sure if it can withstand the torque from the bl motor

here is where I saw the pic.
http://www.rc-raceworld.de/product_info.php/products_id/2738/XTCsid/7a0afdb710614e17a5fc7862d25288b3
It shows the infamous red x where the picture should be, but if you click on "Zoomen" it will show a big picture of them. The item number at the first shop is 009112540 - the second shop lists them as 112540 - so they should be the same ones. They are alittle higher priced at the racewold shop.

[jaejw1]

here is where I saw the pic.
http://www.rc-raceworld.de/product_info.php/products_id/2738/XTCsid/7a0afdb710614e17a5fc7862d25288b3
It shows the infamous red x where the picture should be, but if you click on "Zoomen" it will show a big picture of them. The item number at the first shop is 009112540 - the second shop lists them as 112540 - so they should be the same ones. They are alittle higher priced at the racewold shop.

yeppers,, those are metal

[jaejw1]

ok here are the pics of what i did.. using the broken cvd to the truggy or the buggies cvd's will work rc18t dogbone.. and then a 3/16 alum tube.. CA glue and 3/64 brass rod,,, measured everything.. to get correct cuts.. scored the dog bones and the inside of the tube to allow the glue to adhire to something rough and not smooth.. put the glue inside and let sit for a brief moment and then i pushed/pulled the dogbones to correct legnth

after the glue dried i then drilled a very small hole through each seperate dogbone and place the brass rod through for extra security

[alfred]

Nice man.....how well does it hold up buddy.

[jaejw1]

its just as strong as the original,,,, and it stood the tortures of a new track layout,,,, wet clay dirt= caked tires=heavy tires= stress on motor and drive

[alfred]

Cool, glad they held up man.:D