M18MT I Got one Tales of woe

[jnex26]

Yes I Got one, Built it saturday so far the following has been found.

1. motor i was sold was too small.
2. No Front Drive shafts included in kit.
3. Modification of Servo will be needed as it fouled on the drive shaft.
4. Remember to tighten the diffs. (found this on a forum, bascilly the diffs are lost when shipped and need to be tightened after 10 mins of running)
5. It CAN'T Handle 7 Cell battries as there is not enough room for the pin it fouls on the turn buckle, just use a thin zip tie it works.
6. There is a seperate bag for all the spare screws and most importantly E CLips.
7. Assemble the Suspension in the bath so when the E clip goes Ping it's easier to find.
8. If you goto disassemble the diff get some tweesers to reasseble it.
9. Put some sicky stuff under the servo as well as screwing it down the servo still wobbles a when just using the mounts.
10. The front upper A Arms should swoop back
11. White greese get some and put it on the Diff gears they are sealed so dirt won't get in and it makes the diffs much smoother.
12. Where the manual says to take off burrs with a scapel use Wet and dry sand paper it's easier.

WARNING - READ THE ENTIRE MANUAL BEFORE ATTEMPTING ASSEMBLY.

Xray in their infiniate wisdom define left and right the wrong way round. and there are other small issues in the manual like putting the ball ends in the A Arms be brave they are hard to do.


This is just what I picked up from assembly,Mirage are sending me replacement driveshafts but it could be upto 2 weeks before any come in. I would post pics but she's looking quite sorry for herself with no front wheels or ESC or motor (My ESC is in my RS4 Micro ATM, I'll probably buy a second for Her so she can have one all for herself)

[alfred]

When putting my M18t together i didnt run into any problems of the like.....it all just went together.....i understand your servo delimma on how the servo doesnt stay put.....heres what i did because i had the same problem with my M18...i just used some tapered screws to hold it in place......take a look at the pic provided so you can get the idea......now my servo stays put.

[alfred]

Here's a link to what i did and the comparison of the stock screw to the ones im using now........


http://yourmicro.com/forums/showthread.php?s=&threadid=17093&perpage=15&pagenumber=2

and also a pic of the actual screw itself.

[Mini_Me]

Originally posted by jnex26
[B]Yes I Got one, Built it saturday so far the following has been found.

1. motor i was sold was too small.

300/370 is the size the stock motor plate takes.

2. No Front Drive shafts included in kit.

Ouch. Well at least your getting it resolved. What about ordering some metal cvds for the front so you can get it up and running faster? I know this isnt the cheapest solution.

3. Modification of Servo will be needed as it fouled on the drive shaft.

Which Servo? The bit of "touching" can be nicked with an exacto on the servo. Shouldnt hurt a thing.

4. Remember to tighten the diffs. (found this on a forum, bascilly the diffs are lost when shipped and need to be tightened after 10 mins of running)

Well more like run 2=3 minutes.. Tighten. Run 2-3 minutes tighten..

5. It CAN'T Handle 7 Cell battries as there is not enough room for the pin it fouls on the turn buckle, just use a thin zip tie it works.

Yes, this is a mistake on the announcement. Or is there something in the kit that says as such? (If so can you let me know as I need to inform someone).

9. Put some sicky stuff under the servo as well as screwing it down the servo still wobbles a when just using the mounts.

Again, which servo? I havent encountered this.

11. White greese get some and put it on the Diff gears they are sealed so dirt won't get in and it makes the diffs much smoother.

You mean ceramic grease?


WARNING - READ THE ENTIRE MANUAL BEFORE ATTEMPTING ASSEMBLY.

Good advice.

Xray in their infiniate wisdom define left and right the wrong way round.

Not sure what you mean. The L and R match on mine.

[alfred]

I think he's talking about the upper right and left arms.......i had to double check on mine when i was putting it together.

[jnex26]

Originally posted by Mini_Me
300/370 is the size the stock motor plate takes.]

I Was sold a 370P motor and the screw holes were in the wrong place for the motor mount. But I really know nothing of electric motors, I've got a load of nitro models and this is only my second venture into electrics (something to play with in winter indoors) my other elec is a RS4 micro and comes with a motor.


Ouch. Well at least your getting it resolved. What about ordering some metal cvds for the front so you can get it up and running faster? I know this isnt the cheapest solution.



I Live in the UK there are very few if any hop ups avalible here.



Which Servo? The bit of "touching" can be nicked with an exacto on the servo. Shouldnt hurt a thing.



Yeh that's what i did it was a futaba microservo I can't remember the exact model number just one I had lying about. and all my micro servos had the same problem.



Well more like run 2=3 minutes.. Tighten. Run 2-3 minutes tighten..



Well that's what i was meaning it's just something i picked up from the X-ray forums.


Yes, this is a mistake on the announcement. Or is there something in the kit that says as such? (If so can you let me know as I need to inform someone).


No There is nothing in the Kit/box to say it can't handle 7 cells out the box.



Again, which servo? I havent encountered this.



Well as i said i can't remember the exact model number but it's a futaba servo. and from the way the wervo hold with just a little tape made it feel much more secure.



You mean ceramic grease?



That's what i was talking about, I just could remember the name.

It's just makes the gears mesh much smoother



Good advice.



Being used to Kyosho, HPI I think i've been spoilt as the manuals were clearer and the cars are 1/10 - 1/8 nitro so building is easier

Not sure what you mean. The L and R match on mine.

Look at the manual where they have left A arms it's on the right of the right A Arm and visa versa.

[Mini_Me]

Originally posted by jnex26
[B]I Was sold a 370P motor and the screw holes were in the wrong place for the motor mount. But I really know nothing of electric motors,

I have never heard of a "p" 370 motor. Sounds like the shop that sold you this was unfamiliar with the requirements. If all else fails you can elongate those holes on the stock mount to fit other motors.


Yeh that's what i did it was a futaba microservo I can't remember the exact model number just one I had lying about. and all my micro servos had the same problem.

All I can speak from is personal experience, but my Hitec does not exhibit this problem. If you can give me the Futuba number so I can check with others.


No There is nothing in the Kit/box to say it can't handle 7 cells out the box.

No, what Im asking is where it says it Can accomodate seven cell. I mean is why did you assume it could?


Well as i said i can't remember the exact model number but it's a futaba servo. and from the way the wervo hold with just a little tape made it feel much more secure.

Again if you can could you look at its sticker and let me know the part number. Also realize the binding isnt much of an issue on the driveshaft. The shaft will break itself in if nothing else unless your talking about major binding in that stock it was pushing against the shaft to such a degree that it was binding the drivetrain. If so, could you let me know this servo number. And also realize you can nick a bit of the servo ear top off with an exacto.


It's just makes the gears mesh much smoother

Its not neccessary to lube the stock gears. However, I do also. :)

Look at the manual where they have left A arms it's on the right of the right A Arm and visa versa.

Could you list what page number? So I can verify and then can let someone know of the mistake?


Last, go here in the xray site:

http://www.teamxray.com/teamxray/other/worlddeal.php

Choose UK.. That should help you find someone that can get you hop-ups. :)

[jnex26]

Originally posted by Mini_Me
I have never heard of a "p" 370 motor. Sounds like the shop that sold you this was unfamiliar with the requirements. If all else fails you can elongate those holes on the stock mount to fit other motors.



That's what I suspect aswell, I'm sure I can find a use for it.



All I can speak from is personal experience, but my Hitec does not exhibit this problem. If you can give me the Futuba number so I can check with others.



I was at work when I posted the earlier post now I'm home Here is the micro servo model

Futaba S3101




No, what Im asking is where it says it Can accomodate seven cell. I mean is why did you assume it could?


http://www.teamxray.co.uk/productdetail-380600-m18t.php

Note where it says "Chassis accommodates 5, 6 or 7 cell battery packs "


Again if you can could you look at its sticker and let me know the part number. Also realize the binding isnt much of an issue on the driveshaft. The shaft will break itself in if nothing else unless your talking about major binding in that stock it was pushing against the shaft to such a degree that it was binding the drivetrain. If so, could you let me know this servo number. And also realize you can nick a bit of the servo ear top off with an exacto.


AS I said yeh I chopped a bit off the servo. ear to make it fir as for how close very close indeed. the servo would not actaully fit in the car with the ear complete.


Its not neccessary to lube the stock gears. However, I do also. :)


Yeh I've been doing that ever since i got my first RC.



Could you list what page number? So I can verify and then can let someone know of the mistake?


Page 16 Sec 3 note right is on the left side and left on the right also P17S5, P12S4 , P12S5



Last, go here in the xray site:

http://www.teamxray.com/teamxray/other/worlddeal.php

Choose UK.. That should help you find someone that can get you hop-ups. :)

Fingers crossed.

I have to say never the less it's a very nice kit i just wish i had my driveshafts and a decent motor

[alfred]

Im using the s3102mg Futaba servo and i didnt have to cut the left ear off. And as for balldiff break in you can also use a Dremel.

[jnex26]

Well I got the driveshafts though and i got a motor that with a tiny bit of sanding should fit. it's a reedy minimax modified motor (£30 twas a bit steep) on top of that i've managed to make the 8.4 Volt battery pack stay still and not move.

Just gotta mount the Radio Gear and ESC, These are not the smallest possible parts and I phear for my sanity trying to fit these :(

Also I'm afraid the drive train is gonna die very quickly. A modified motor and 8.4 Volt battery with a V-meaty ESC is probably gonna break something on the drive train very quickly.

[alfred]

You should'nt have to sand anything down on the motor mount to install the motor....i use the same motor as well and its a direct fit.....glad you got the parts you needed man...Yes i dont think your drivetrain especially the composite CVD's will last long man......

[jnex26]

Well Last night was the first time she got a good run.

And OMG does she fly. well needless to say she was not the prittiest with the receiver hastely attached with zip ties and a massive speed controller.

but OMG she was so fast - In fact so fast she ruined her pinion gear (The one on the motor) after the first 2 runs. After a quick replacement she was running again with a bigger pinion gear.

but cricky there is probably a reason for not having the chassis handle 8.4 Volt (7 Cell) and think I've found it she's uncontrollable.

I'm on the biggest pinion gear I could find acceleration is more than acceptable and when she get's up speed it's a joke.

So In conclusion I need the following now.

1. Metal pinion and spur gears.
2. Metal CVD's (The comp are never going to last)
3. Smaller Speed controller and/or receiver
4. Longer Tie rods for the front and adjustable tie rods for the rear ( I want the front toe'ed in alot more than it currently is) and the Read Toed out(I think)
5. Slightly Stiffer suspension (I'll upgrade the fluid/springs)
6. 8.4 (7 Cell Battery mounting kit)

that's about it atm

[alfred]

It seems you had fun man.....yeah the composite CVD's will not last at all.......rcraceday should be carrying parts by the end of next week. Cant wait.:p

[jnex26]

Well here's a update......

The Reedy Minimax Fried don't know why I don't care anymore.

I've fitted a 380 in there. (the Next person that says a 380 won't fit to me is going to get a ear full) it just takes some errm fiddling.

I've upgraded my radio gear to DSM for glitch free Operation.

I'm running a 14 Tooth Pinion. V Acceptable.

Down to 6 Pack Battery. 7 Pack Just does not fit securly.

The Place for hopups is www.rcmart.com loads there I've got a load of alu bit's comming my way as she now has a tendancy to break bits.

She's had a total of about 8 runs Never a complete one she's allways broken something. So everthing she's ever proken I'm upgrading. Including Drive shaft, hubs, turnbuckles, pinion. you can't get A Arm's yet but my bet it they will be the next to go.

[alfred]

LOL....how do you keep breaking stuff man.......thats funny...just joking man.....You will love the Spektrum....did you buy the radio or the module for your existing radio.....

[oXYnary]

The 3 racing parts aren't that great. In fact they suck pretty much. The only part I liked from them was the aluminum bellcrank. Get the xray drive shafts, your truck will love you for it. The atomic turnbuckles are decent though.

It sounds like you umm.. well to be blunt might not be the best driver ;). Try getting this front bumper.
http://t-bone-rc.tripod.com/id1.html That extra width and sticking out should help with cutting down on your parts breakage.

You will never see aluminum a-arms. The pivot ball suspension wouldn't work as well. As it is, xray is offering metal nickle plated balls now, so there would be no way to install these on a metal pivot arm.

The 6 cell hold down extension from xray (which will allow 7 cells with a flipped cell) is now available. That should allow a secure holding of a 7 cell (see the graphite chassis xray for an example of how it works-the hole is there on the stock).

[jnex26]

Originally posted by oXYnary
The 3 racing parts aren't that great. In fact they suck pretty much. The only part I liked from them was the aluminum bellcrank. Get the xray drive shafts, your truck will love you for it. The atomic turnbuckles are decent though.

It sounds like you umm.. well to be blunt might not be the best driver ;). Try getting this front bumper.
http://t-bone-rc.tripod.com/id1.html That extra width and sticking out should help with cutting down on your parts breakage.

You will never see aluminum a-arms. The pivot ball suspension wouldn't work as well. As it is, xray is offering metal nickle plated balls now, so there would be no way to install these on a metal pivot arm.

The 6 cell hold down extension from xray (which will allow 7 cells with a flipped cell) is now available. That should allow a secure holding of a 7 cell (see the graphite chassis xray for an example of how it works-the hole is there on the stock).

Well I've ordered my parts already so i'll just have to wait and see about the suckyness of 3 racing parts. But I'm fairly inventive and I'm sure I can reduce the suckyness, I've already got a set of Xray driveshafts for the front on order but they have taken longer than the rcmart parts to ship.

of for my driving ability, It's OK I would say i'm use to driving 1/8th tho and this thing is really skittish at high speed ( and having a 380 in there = high speed most of the time) unlike my inferno. The DSM I bought the enitre pack the DX3 with the free extra receiver, And It's helped keep her under control. It's alot more flexible than the hi-tec aggressor. The only time I've broken anything which was my fault was a incedent with kerb that snapped the hub in two. The rest is mostly when I've over powered her and something has given like the drive shafts, I've also got a set of titanium turnbuckles comming aswell so i can finally adjust the massive tow in on the rear wheels. and set up the tow on the front.